My engine is siezed up tight (got a jnker)

 

how do I get the drive plate bolts that I cant turn motor to access?

cutoff wheel through bell housing will work with not much hole. I plan to try and have block line bored and new pistons/rings,bearings and all.

 

 

any idea how to break? alot of force already!! no dice

 

even to put in rebuilt junker I need to get it out.

 

anybody break down throught oil pan before ?

 

heads and alll else off already

Edited November 2, 200916 yr by LegacyWagon92
added info

You don't necessarily HAVE to remove the torque converter bolts. The converter will pull out of the transmission with little trouble. The only thing is you have to make absolutely sure that it is reinstalled correctly. It's not difficult to reinstall but it HAS to be installed correctly or the oil pump in the transmission will be destroyed the first time you crank the engine.

before I go to pull it out with the plate

 

do I have to mark anything ofr will I be able to align and reinstall without any special marking or preparation?

 

thanks a million

first, you say you are going to rebuild a seized engine?

that probably is not wise. the reason its seized could be many reasons, but most likely a broken connecting rod, thus your piston cyl bore is going to be toast, ie, cracked block.

 

you are going about this wrong.

Thanks for the input

 

When I got the junker it first was cranking but had a bad cylinder due to bad head gasket. It was overheated and messed up by the previous owner. I just got laid off and have the time to work it over but I have waited to long so it locked due to time sitting still.

 

The fact remains I have to get the old block out. I do not want to pull the transaxle.

 

Once I rip down the old block I'll know that if I can reuse it or not.

I assume this is a 1992 EJ22?

your engine is non-interference so you will not damage much by doing this.

take your spark plugs out, and set them aside.

get a 22mm socket and ratchet to fit the center crank bolt pulley. Turn backwards to see if you can turn it the wrong direction to get to the TC bolts thru the access hole. I like to use a little snap-on 1/4 drive ratchet with short socket to get the TC bolts out, and i use a little cheater bar to snap them loose.

yeah buddy ej22

 

thanks for the input

 

I wrote in the first post that the engine is torn down all the way. Heads and all are off. I have put as much force on the crank bolt as I am going to.

 

I used a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter for my breaker and cheater until I turnd the adapter in two.

 

Like I wrote in the first post the engine is torn down all the way.

 

I can see and gain access to two of the four drive plate bolts but in lieu of turning the crank for access to the other two I'll just pull the torqueconverter

 

Now I am going ahead and pull the engine with the torque converter. I may just find another junker motor to take to the machine shop. Now I am laid off from work I have time to mess with this.

if you pull if out with torque converter attached, be very careful with the angles of the tranny to bellhousing.

You will need to undo the dogbone pitch stopper, and actually jack up the bottom of the tranny as you pull up on the engine to clear the motor mound studs. you don't want to have a lot of pressure wieght difference, binding from the transmission on the snout of the trans input shaft. You need to be very careful that ll is secure when you separate the 2. Don't booger up the tran input shaft when you slide off the TC, and also thereas a circlip that you will most likely end up destroying this method, so you will need a new one of those or a non damaged circlip to the TC.

good luck

she's out and on the workbench:banana:

 

thanks a million

 

now the fun to start

 

I intend to take it all apart and stow in boxes to take the parts to the machine shop and have it bored out & oversize rings or maybe new pistons too.

 

I plan to follow the manual as I can. I read one that said to not replace the main seal. Any other hints or tips would be appreciated.

You should go ahead and replace the rear main seal. Use Subaru parts. Put a SMALL bead of anaerobic sealer around the bore the seal sits in before you install it to prevent potential leaks.

did you angle the trans or what? i'm about to pull a seized EJ motor as well with auto trans. guess i'll just angle the trans and remove it with the torque converter still attached.

did you angle the trans or what? i'm about to pull a seized EJ motor as well with auto trans. guess i'll just angle the trans and remove it with the torque converter still attached.

 

 

gary, the last time this guy logged on was in jan.

 

from my limited experience, the process should be the same but once the TC is a few inches out of the trans housing you can remove the wire spring clip that separates it from the shaft. the first time i looked at a tc with the shaft attached i missed the spring clip but its there. i don't know how hard it is to remove "in place".

 

good luck.

I thought he may have subscribed to this thread.

 

Oh right, I forgot about that John, I remember the shaft coming off of one of mine before but have never intentionally removed one either. Hopefully I'll be able to figure that clip out, much less risky and simpler. I've pulled the engine/trans as a lump enough times (including EJ25 automatics) so that's a last resort to angle the trans enough to pull the shaft all the way out too.