Hi, I have a gear shift problem with my 1985 GL wagon (2WD)

 

About a month ago it started grinding when shifting into reverse. Around the same time, I also noticed a faint screeching noise when the clutch pedal was slightly pressed, I am thinking this is the throw out bearing. All other gears worked fine until about a week ago, when things got progressively worse.

 

Reverse got so bad that I now have to turn off the engine before shifting (to avoid some very excessive grinding). Shifting into other gears is becoming really difficult too, i have to use a fair amount of force to find the gears (4th and 5th are a lot easier that 123).

 

The clutch is not slipping at all. The transmission fluid looks clean and at a good level.

 

What's her problem? clutch not disengaging fully? transmission/synchro fault? Would a transmission oil change help (with a synchro friendly additive)?

 

Any thoughts appreciated!

 

Poleman

Sounds like a clutch cable stretched or out of adjustment. I would check there first.

Yeah - your clutch is dragging. Check the cable as they can snap unexpectedly if you don't catch them before they fail.

 

It does sound like you have a TO bearing on the way out as well. Probably a good time to pull the engine, resurface the flywheel and replace the disc and both bearings.

 

There is no syncro for reverse BTW. That's why it's the only one that grinds on you. You should fix this right away to avoid syncro failure on the 1-5 gears though as the dragging clutch is VERY hard on them.

 

GD

Edited November 19, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thanks.

 

I will try and adjust the cable tonight. I am guessing I adjust it shorter?

 

I forgot to mention that it has a 'hill helper' which has stuck on a couple of times recently. Maybe this indicates the clutch cable has streched.

 

The car has done 195k so it is time for a new clutch. Car is mint so I think it is worth the effort.

 

One more question, and sorry to repeat previous threads...Engine out or drop the transmission? I've done neither before, but I have some help.

Pulling the engine is a lot easier than dropping the transmission on these cars.

 

The hill-holder is a seperate cable and perhaps that cable is sticking. There is a return spring on the HH valve - check to insure that is in place and all is working smoothly.

 

GD

if you still have the problem after adjusting the cable, your clutch fork could be bending. Over time the grease on the pivot ball dries up and the metal on metal contact wears the fork out.

 

This happened on my Outback. I greased it, but I feel like it's already stiffer and it's only been about a year since I did the job. Next time I have thing apart, I'm machining a pivot out of oil impregnated bronze!

 

I agree with GD on pulling the engine. I've done it both ways now and wrestling that trans around by yourself with blocks of wood and bottle jacks suuuuuuuuuuucks. The engine route was much easier. But then I don't know what your resources are, I'm working on plywood over gravel.

Edited November 19, 200916 yr by lostinthe202
add stuff

Thanks for the response...

 

Engine out it is then. I'm studying up on it.

 

I was just trying to find a new clutch fork online. The autozone (and others) clutch kits don't seem to include the fork, but if the clutch is coming out, then a new fork in going in with the new clutch. They don't seem to stock them separately either. I'll keep looking.

 

Poleman

Doubt you'll find it at an aftermarket place, I think you'll have to get one from a dealer or a JY. Mine was 12 bucks from the dealer so not bad. I wasn't sure it was my fork until I had things apart, but at 12 bucks, not much of a risk if it ends up the fork is fine.

 

Good luck!

 

Will-

Thanks Will. I'll try the local Subaru workshop.

Just a tip. If you do have to replace the clutch cable, make sure and get it from the dealer.

Thanks. If I can't adjust the old cable tonight then I will replace the old clutch, flywheel, bearings etc.

 

I'll be sure to use a Subaru supplied cable and fork.

 

Does anyone have an opinion on the clutch kits autozone supplies. $100 sounds good to me, but will it go the distance? Also a new flywheel for $60.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Clutch+Set-Matched&currentPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Drivetrain&navValue=11200179&itemId=179-0&parentId=12-0

 

Poleman

It's pretty rare to see a clutch fork failure. Generally just a dab of grease and they are fine. I've seen plenty with 250k+ that were just fine. In other parts of the country, especially the rust belt, it's important to ensure the fork boot is in good condition.

 

I get my clutch parts from a local discount house - they are typically OEM parts that are just repackaged. Sometimes I will only replace the disc, and both bearings as the pressure plate's don't fail unless they are down to the rivets on the disc. If things are badly worn I'll replace the pressure plate as well. The flywheel just have machined - $35 at my local shop and 15 minute turn-around.

 

GD

Edited November 20, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder

The new clutch cable has fixed the problem! The TO bearing still screeches but at least I can find all the gears, including reverse. I can't believe it was such a simple fix, I was thinking for sure that the problem was in the transmission or a more complex clutch problem.

 

I'm still going to replace the clutch as it's probably on the way out, but I can drive the car until I find the time to do it.

 

I hope someone else finds this usefuil. I definitely found all your advice helpful!

 

Poleman