i'm doing a a XT6 5 lug swap on my brumby and it would appear that the master cylinder on the brumby is too small for the XT6 brakes (bratsrus1 metioned i might have this problem)...

 

having one last go at bleeding brakes tomorrow as it feels like there is air in the system...but i don't know if thats what a too small master cylinder feels like as well

 

so what i want to know is if a non ABS legacy or impreza master cylinder will fit the brumby/brat booster and hook up to the brake lines...

 

i kinda need to know ASAP

 

oh an a full write up of the swap will be happening (complete with pics of front axles altered to fit) once i have it back on the road

 

Cheers for any advice

I put WRX brakes on my hatch and I am still using the stock master cylinder. I've had no problems at all. I swapped out all the bleeder screws to speed bleeders then replaced the brake hoses (the old ones were cracked), then flushed the system, and it all worked great.

sweet....i must still just have air in the lines....dad said that it felt like air in the lines....but was the same as me and didn't know if a undersized master cylinder also felt like it did

 

i'll bleed them again...for the don't know how manyth time lol

What size in the MC bore?

 

If you up the size on the caliper pistons or number of pistons, that can cause excessive pedal travel. But that can sometimes be confused with air in the brake lines. If the pedal is firm, but just takes an extra long time to travel, then that could be due to an undersized MC.

 

I had this issue when putting WRX brakes on my Legacy. I upgraded from the 1" bore MC to 1-1/16" bore MC.

 

There's some info about the pedal travel calcs in my brake calc spreadsheet.

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

I've seen a brat with a stock booster/sti MC. Bolted up like butter.

I've seen a brat with a stock booster/sti MC. Bolted up like butter.

 

hmmmm....sounds promising if i do find i need a bigger MC

But that can sometimes be confused with air in the brake lines. If the pedal is firm, but just takes an extra long time to travel, then that could be due to an undersized MC.

 

ahhh ok....my peddle felt spongy..... so it must be air in it

if it is air try holding down the clutch during bleeding to get all the fluid to move through the rear. this applies if the hill holder is still functioning. acts like a one way valve when beleeding the rear

got it sorted....air in front brake lines

Good deal

Not 100% relevant, but I have a legacy 15/16th Master on my ea82. While this was fantastic on the stock disc all around car I have since upgraded to FHI 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears with steel braided lines. To my surprise this setup was actually quite nice. I did notice when compared to the car the brakes came from (JDM 2003/2004 WRX) that it required more effort in my car for the same stopping power but when you give it the effort boy does it haul the MUCH lighter ea82 to stop..9 cents change anyone? It isn't perfect. I would love to add the bigger 1 1/16th MC and booster but the only RHD cars that had it in 4 port config were those Legacies and very early imprezas with ABS. Of course ABS subarus from that era are scarce in Barbados. You guys have it lucky just go find yourself an SVX 1 1/16 MC and Legacy booster and your done..

 

Kaz

Ive been having a lot of problems trying to bleed my brakes on my brumby.

Im thinking the rear bleeder is sucking air thru the threads when im bleeding it. :-\

the rear bleeder on the MC or the one of the ones on the rear end calipers?

 

make sure the tube you are using to bleed it with is a tight fit over the nipple....

 

i thought i was getting alot of air out of a my system when i did the 4 stud rear disk swap....turned out i was getting air into the tube around the nipple end....combination of a oldish bleeding tube and a small nick in the nipple end caused me no end of trouble

the rear bleeder on the MC or the one of the ones on the rear end calipers?

 

make sure the tube you are using to bleed it with is a tight fit over the nipple....

 

i thought i was getting alot of air out of a my system when i did the 4 stud rear disk swap....turned out i was getting air into the tube around the nipple end....combination of a oldish bleeding tube and a small nick in the nipple end caused me no end of trouble

 

Bleeder on the rear drum. Hose fitted tight. Even ended up buying a vaccume bleeder to help out. didnt work.

When I just losened the bleeder i could get quite a bit side ways movement.

So thinking I may have to replace the rear wheel cylinders with new ones

new ones needed