PoorManzImpreza

What happened? Was loving this build. Kaz

There is play in those three holes that control the rear alignment both camber and toe.. Caboobaroo (Russ) is the resident EA alignment expert.. HTH Kaz

wow almost done! can we get a closer look at your tranny mount to give pre 87.5 model ppl some ej tranny swap inspiration? also what was the part number on that momo steering wheel hub? Kaz

MY GOD...... :burnout: I'm just stunned by how good this build is coming along.. fyi from all that I've researched the AWIC pump should be on the lowest side; ie near the bottom feed of the radiator.. I'm really looking forward to seeing this run.. Kaz

looks like it came from the factory with DCCD Kaz

:slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber:.... This is my dream project.. absolutly AMAZING...just AMAZING.... I have the same brakes on my 89 wagon, you'll love them! I look forward to seeing this in action. Kaz

Actually its ej20 that has the same bore as ea82/81 but no other dimension will match; not wrist pin diameter nor position.. Hth Kaz

Crap that's bad news.. Kaz

+1

Rob, Awesome finally dumped the ea82..looking good so far only seen that kinda camshaft damage in a hit car.. Lol my conversion is slower than Russ right now lol But I'm gonna b a couple steps behind suberdave..his will b an sti l-series wagon mine will b a jdm wrx l-series wagon (but with more rust).. Anyway it looks good, keep us posted Kaz

:slobber::slobber: and w00d! awesome Dave my MoFo hero.. Kaz

There are many brands but none as good as the OE NTN, your best bet is to find some ej axles with the right spline count on the shaft (22 BTW) and knock the outers off usually anything marked 82 is the business. I've used outers from GCK, GLO, Shibumi there are MANY manufacturers, If they manufacture a complete axle they usually have the Bell Joint (outer) seperately. HTH Kaz

'Tex, How do u like the Ksports? Kaz

yeah the pipe trick is hit or miss sometimes it just doesn't do the trick but u can still cut the outer jount off with an angle grinder..just have to be very careful not to cut the splines...I've had more success with oem NTN axles using the pipe trick and variants and less success with rebuilds/aftermarket. I have seen outboard joints in many spline varieties, three variations for ea/er cars with oe stamps of 82, 87, 95 and 100. In ej cars the numbering conventions are generally the same, but it gets complicated as there are now fine splined and coarse splined versions, for example gd wrx axles even though the shaft looks nice and fat the actual joints are in the 82 size but are completely incompatible with anything sized 82 in ea/er 'cuz there are fine splined and ea/er is coarse splined. I took two of my axle shafts to an aftermarket parts supplier here, one shaft was out of a 4wd 4eat ea82 turbo car, the other was out of a carbed ea82 auto fwd the turbo car had 95 on the joints and 25 spline inboard DOJs. The fwd car had 82 on the joints and had 23 spline DOJs. My parts store had BOTH types of outboard EJ joints in stock Pics: fwd on top turbo below turbo on left: some ej GD wrx on top 4eat Legacy below, you can see both are fine splined and you can also see the variation in axle diameter on the gd axle: Now connecting this on topic most ea81 axles are the 82 coarse spline variety.. I build custom axles using ea82 fwd inboard and shaft and ej outers the same can be done with ea81 parts.. This is what the guys in aussieland have been doing for years.. HTH Kaz

If your car is awd (it should be) you require parts from an awd car, same for 2wd requiring parts from a 2wd. The easiest way to do the swap is to exchange the rear knuckle assemblies from the rear disc equiped car. This is the assembly that the trailing arm lateral links and strut bolts to. Leave the ebrake cables hooked up to the knuckle assemblies and disconnect them at the e-brake handle. Be carefull of the long bolt that secures the knuckle assembly to the two lateral links, this bolt has a habit of being rusted in place in salt prone areas. I know you can swap the gc parts onto a gd car but I dunno if the ebrake cables are the same length so you might want to stick with a parts car that shares the same chassis. You will also require the soft brake line bolted between the body hard line and the caliper... It is an easy swap with the right tools.. Just be methodical and ensure you are getting good parts from your donor car..nothing like doing a swap like this and finding out the donor car had bad bearings.. I would also consider grabbing the front brakes from your donor as well. Braking is a carefully balanced system and the rs front brakes will b bigger than yours. You'll need the front calipers and front rotors. Ensure that whatever wheels you have will clear the rs brakes by test fitting them on the donor befor swapping.. HTH Kaz