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So I have a 97 OB that needed a new motor. I purchased a good running motor from a 96 OB. I replaced the water pump and did a timing belt on the donor motor and was getting ready to put it in the 97. I had heard from someone to swap the intake manifolds so that the manifold from the car stays in the car as sometimes there are sensor differences, etc. Is this necessary in this case or can I just drop the 96 motor in with the 96 intake on there? It's not a big deal to swap them but I figure I'd rather not do it if I don't have to. Thoughts?

 

Anything else I should watch for as I put the 96 engine back in and hook everything up?

 

Thanks guys and gals!

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Anything else I should watch for as I put the 96 engine back in and hook everything up?

 

Hi mtskibum16

I can't answer about the intake cover, but I just did a swap from a 97 OB to a 98 OB. I did have to move one small vacuum hose hookup over to the 98. And it was a manual to automatic shift also.

 

My suggestions for the swap (some are only to help me, as I was not familiar with Subarus, forgive anything that is to elementary):

Buy the Haynes (or similar) book unless you have swapped a lot of engines.

When the book says disconnect the torque converter (if Automatic), do it or ask here if you don't understand the need. It isn't easy, but the trouble if you don't can be much worse.

Take a lot of pictures, and use a marker on sandwich bags to label and hold bolts for things like exhaust, timing cover, torque converter--or find some way to keep track of what the bolts go to. I jsut put them back in the hole when I could.

Give yourself more time than you think you will need. Have a way to get to the parts store.

I would have liked to have a heated garage, not an open barn in NY state. But the roof, three walls, and smooth concrete floor were blessings.

No matter how careful you are, there will probably be fluid spills, be prepared to contain and clean them up.

The lower bolts for engine to transaxle are tough to get at. There is limited room before the wrench hits the axle and the angle is difficult. I found a 1/2 inch bar and socket (14 mm) worked. Others suggest a flex ratchet.

Replace all the seals, etc. you can on the donor: front and rear crank (some do say if it doesn't leak don't change it), camshaft, change to a metal separator plate on the back if it is plastic, valve cover gasket (with bolt grommets), oil pump seal, spark plugs, timing belt, clutch (if manual), anything that is easier with the engine out.

 

And the main thing I didn't know about was USMB. Ask here if you are unsure about anything, there are people here who will help who have much more experience than I do.

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So I have a 97 OB that needed a new motor. I purchased a good running motor from a 96 OB. I replaced the water pump and did a timing belt on the donor motor and was getting ready to put it in the 97. I had heard from someone to swap the intake manifolds so that the manifold from the car stays in the car as sometimes there are sensor differences, etc. Is this necessary in this case or can I just drop the 96 motor in with the 96 intake on there? It's not a big deal to swap them but I figure I'd rather not do it if I don't have to. Thoughts?

 

Anything else I should watch for as I put the 96 engine back in and hook everything up?

 

Thanks guys and gals!

 

no, you do not need to swap anything as long as they are both 2.5 auto trans. just drop it in.

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The only real difference will be if you have your charcoal canister up in the engine compartment. In 96 they were in the engine compartment and then later they moved it to near the gas tank. If your 97 has it in the engine compartment, you will not have to switch the intake, if it is not there, you will have to.

 

Hope that mekes sense to you. In reality, I don't think the moved the canister until 98 or 99 so you are problably gooden.

 

Good Luck

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The canister is the only real difference. I also think it was 98 when it went to the back of the car. But there are always oddball cars.

 

The only other thing I can think of is look at the vacuum lines that lead to the inner fender, some years have one and some have 2. You don't have to change the intake for that, just hook them up in the right spot on the new engine.

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Thanks for the replies guys! Just FYI, I do have the charcoal canister in the engine compartment. IIRC, I had 2 vacuum lines going to the passenger side fender (is that some sort of solenoid or what?) but I can't be sure off the top of my head. Well cool, looks like I might get this thing going this weekend!

 

As for who gave me the advise, it was my stepdad who is a body man and specializes in Subarus but generally stays away from mechanics if possible. I got the engine from a car he had. He works closely with the local suby mechanic guru on some jobs and was thinking he had heard that but wasn't really sure. Anyways, that's why I wanted to double check.

 

Also, I know I have read about the possible issues of the engine not mating properly in the torque converter and wanted to know what I should watch for and how to verify that I'm good. I remember people saying that if the engine doesn't seem like it wants to seat that last 1/4" or so and butt up properly to the tranny there is a misalignment and to not just crank it down at that point. So what's the fix/check to see if you have it? Turn the engine over slighlty to get proper alignment? Anything else irregular to watch for?

 

Thanks again!

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You need to make sure the torque converter is properly seated before you try to put the engine in the bay. Get inside the bay and grab the torque converter by the little nub in the middle. wiggle that up and down while spinning the converter. it should be seated almost so that the starter is touching it. Maybe a quarter of an inch away. If it is already there, then you are golden and try to install the motor. If you have any questions, you can call me

 

Mike

804-393-0516

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Also, I know I have read about the possible issues of the engine not mating properly in the torque converter and wanted to know what I should watch for and how to verify that I'm good. I remember people saying that if the engine doesn't seem like it wants to seat that last 1/4" or so and butt up properly to the tranny there is a misalignment and to not just crank it down at that point. So what's the fix/check to see if you have it? Turn the engine over slighlty to get proper alignment? Anything else irregular to watch for?

 

Thanks again!

 

search "torqueconverter" in my threads and read "how to seat your torque converter". it is not hard to do correctly if you know it needs to be done. most folks think they are done when in fact there is one more step. not a hard step, just an unknown step.

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