1994LOYALE Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 i just swaped my carbed ea82 out of a 1986 gl into a 94 loyale it i swaped fuel pump and it runs but not good there are plugs for the carborator and i dont know how to wire the electrical on the carb since the loyale was spfi can someone tell me what to do with these wires thanx:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Swap the SPFI manifold back on. That's a total lose putting a carbed engine in a Loyale like that. As for the carb - replace it with a Weber if you really intend to keep the thing with a carb on it. And if you wanted a carb so bad - how is it that you don't know how they function? FTL. :-\ GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Swap the SPFI manifold back on. That's a total lose putting a carbed engine in a Loyale like that. As for the carb - replace it with a Weber if you really intend to keep the thing with a carb on it. And if you wanted a carb so bad - how is it that you don't know how they function? FTL. :-\ GD the other motor was blown and i tried to get the intake of but there is one bolt that im afriad of breaking becase its very tight i do know stuff about carbs but my question was how do i hook the electrical conections back up for the choke i want to swap intakes but i dont want to snap that bolt off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeldr Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Snap that bolt right off, then drill it out. OR! you could get lucky after heating it up a bit to loosen it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Snap that bolt right off, then drill it out. OR! you could get lucky after heating it up a bit to loosen it up. thax for the reply i got the loyale fo 100 bucks ive had my gl but it was rusty so i pulled the motor and put it in the loyale but i was hoping to just keep it simple and keep the carb but the fi is prob they way to go:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Did you also swap the distributors? Thinking there should be major differences between the 86 and 90 whatever. And a second installing the original intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Did you also swap the distributors? Thinking there should be major differences between the 86 and 90 whatever. And a second installing the original intake. i will swap in the disty from the spfi if i swap the intakes over that carb is scary th spfi looks simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Ignition switched +12v to the choke and the idle cut solenoid. That's pretty typical of carbs. You are much better off putting the SPFI on the carb engine. It will run just fine. Snap the bolt off and pull the manifold off the remaining stub. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 thanks i snaped the bolt all others came out gunna swap intakes do i need to swap the disty for the spfi and how exatly to i make sure its timed right andfter i install the disty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 (edited) Yes you need the SPFI distributor. Just posistion the existing distributor rotor to point at a landmark on the cap or the distributor body. Drop the new one in at the same orientation. If you screw it up then you have to find TDC of the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder and drop in the distributor to point at the #1 plug tower on the cap. Once installed properly you have to time it with a light. 20 degree's BTDC is the timing setting for all SPFI distributor's. You can get it roughly correct by turning the engine to 20 on the flywheel mark and then lineing up the distributor rotor with the #1 plug tower on the cap then locking it down. Final adjustment should be with a light. GD Edited January 21, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 take off the cap, and rotate the crank till the 0 deg mark comes up. the rotor will point at the master cylinder, if it is pointing the other way, rotate the crank again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 take off the cap, and rotate the crank till the 0 deg mark comes up. the rotor will point at the master cylinder, if it is pointing the other way, rotate the crank again thanks and milesfox im a big fan of your vids kep em commin and i broke of a bolt in the head wile taking the intake of and i was ondering if it would cuase a vacumme leak if i just used the two remaining bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 SWEET! there is a video detailing the ign timing. I will soon have up headgasket ej25 and ea82 videos when i get to doing the work... anyway, which bolt broke, the shortest outside one, or one of the longer inner bolts. people are going to tell you one thing or another, but i will tell you I have used an intake with only 2 bolts on one side with no issues. use new gaskets, and you can put a film of ultra grey sealant on the gaskets if you like. if you are skillful enough, you can try to drill out the old bolt, provided you know what's involved. otherwise, if i were you, i would work with what you have, and if it holds out, then you are good to go. worry about extracting the broken bolt the next time you have to pull the heads. wors comes to worst you might have to change the intake gaskets if you do have problems. clean up the bolts real good with a wire wheel, and use anti seize on the threads and the entire shank of the bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 21, 2010 Author Share Posted January 21, 2010 SWEET! there is a video detailing the ign timing. I will soon have up headgasket ej25 and ea82 videos when i get to doing the work... anyway, which bolt broke, the shortest outside one, or one of the longer inner bolts. people are going to tell you one thing or another, but i will tell you I have used an intake with only 2 bolts on one side with no issues. use new gaskets, and you can put a film of ultra grey sealant on the gaskets if you like. if you are skillful enough, you can try to drill out the old bolt, provided you know what's involved. otherwise, if i were you, i would work with what you have, and if it holds out, then you are good to go. worry about extracting the broken bolt the next time you have to pull the heads. wors comes to worst you might have to change the intake gaskets if you do have problems. clean up the bolts real good with a wire wheel, and use anti seize on the threads and the entire shank of the bolt ya im loking forward to your new vids i have an old rusty 86 gl 4x4 that i pulled the motor from but the wagon is cooler i think but im just gonna go with what i have thanks for the help subarus rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 ya im loking forward to your new vids i have an old rusty 86 gl 4x4 that i pulled the motor from but the wagon is cooler i think but im just gonna go with what i have thanks for the help subarus rule! well it runs but misses its timed somewhat right i think it idles ok but it misses under load how do i time it correct and it is smoking bad it never did that in other car is that from timming? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 well it runs but misses its timed somewhat right i think it idles ok but it misses under load how do i time it correct and it is smoking bad it never did that in other car is that from timming? well the car may be goin to scrapper motor messed up ran fine when pulled but now it burns tons of oil cant even drive it it missis and smokes bad dark blue cant even see behind you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 where do you live? i would give you a little better than scrap value if its close enough for me to travel to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 where do you live? i would give you a little better than scrap value if its close enough for me to travel to nebraska my local junk yard said thed give 200 for it but i just swaped the motor and it allwased smoked alitle on startup but now it wont stop smoking its bad could this be from the timming since i swaped distys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 probably has a bad valve guide, or somehow you flooded the cylinders with oil wrangling it around. do you know the motor you swapped was good? maybe you got the pcv routing wrong. make sure you got that right, that is the only thing i could think of that may be different now you completed the swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 probably has a bad valve guide, or somehow you flooded the cylinders with oil wrangling it around. do you know the motor you swapped was good? maybe you got the pcv routing wrong. make sure you got that right, that is the only thing i could think of that may be different now you completed the swap. ya my dad had the car for about a year and then he gave it to me i drove it to school and stuff im 16 it was a 1986 gl 4x4 dual range it ran great it smoked very little on startup but it is to rusty and had bad wheelbering and i ruined axle and hub but it drove fine into my garage the day i pulled the motor it has about 160,000 miles it leaks oil from valve covers but not terrible i got a 94 loyale wagon for 100 bucks it had ablown headgasket posibly craked head and it had 200,000 i swaped the motor from the 86 in it treid to run carb but dint run right so i swaped the intakes from the loyale so i had spfi swaped distys and started it up and it smokes it did the smae with the carb it has a bad miss under load but thats it we did mess up with the disty and fogot to mark were it was so we had to re time it but it runs desent idk:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 well, of you can drive it as it is, try to get by and do the head gaskets on the old motor. Then you have a fresh motor to swap in that you know will be good. Which one did you twist the intake bolts on? if the loyale is not rusty, keep onto it until you get a good engine lined up, so long as you have the space to keep it. it can't be so bad it's beyond diagnosis or correction. only junk it if you decide you are done with subarus. I can understand the lack of old subarus in nebraska. these cars are cheap enough to come by if you know how to source them. you have to beat them to the junkyard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 well, of you can drive it as it is, try to get by and do the head gaskets on the old motor. Then you have a fresh motor to swap in that you know will be good. Which one did you twist the intake bolts on? if the loyale is not rusty, keep onto it until you get a good engine lined up, so long as you have the space to keep it. it can't be so bad it's beyond diagnosis or correction. only junk it if you decide you are done with subarus. I can understand the lack of old subarus in nebraska. these cars are cheap enough to come by if you know how to source them. you have to beat them to the junkyard! ya i love em the so fun to drive but i just want to get it running again what exactly is the copper pipe that goes from the haed to the intake i pinched it off and pluged the endes fill of rtv would that be a problem and i dont know exatly if i have it timed correct or not how do i know for sure thanks:grin:o and i twisted of the passeger side long one closest to the firewal i put the intake on and used rtv along with new gaskets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 that is hot exhaust there on that pipe. it goes to the EGr. RTV would stink and burn uo inside there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994LOYALE Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 that is hot exhaust there on that pipe. it goes to the EGr. RTV would stink and burn uo inside there so whould i want to plug that better i feel stupid:rolleyes: and can u give me anyinfo on timming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 point the rotor at the master cylinder. #1 is just to the right of the cap screw/clip when the flywheel is at the 0 deg mark, the passenger side cam is pointing to the hard corner on the valve cover. this is TDC when you think you have the distributor in correctly, make sure you can see the dot on the passenger side. leave the timing cover off on that side till you get the whole deal running properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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