Remedies for leaking valve seals

[ferox]

I have 273k on my '81 hatch. It drives great. I have got great compression. My oil stays clean and clear for a long time after an oil change. I have no real reason to do much to my engine, except my valve seals are starting to leak at a level that I am finding unacceptable. They used to just leak a little bit, and give off a brief oil burn-off in the morning start-up and be good the rest of the day. Now however, they are producing a more substantial cloud of burnt oil exhaust on start-up, not only in the morning, but also later in the afternoon after the car has sat all day. It's not James Bond smokescreen exhaust, but I find it embarassing and increasingly unacceptable.

 

So I have been debating about redo-ing some extra heads I have and going through with the swap, but the only reason I have for doing so is the valve seals. The other factor in this is that I plan on EJ-ing the hatch, but I have to finish my Justy project first. At the rate I am going that won't be until summer. So do I bother with the head swap if I am going to yank the engine within 9 months? If I weren't going to EJ, I would just do the heads and be done with it, but right now I have several things that I could really use that time and money on. Can I replace the seals without removing the heads, and if so do I need to pull the engine to get clearance/access? For that matter, is it just the seals that are the problem or the guides too? I am usually not a proponent of chemical fixes for mechanical wear issues, but if I can't replace the seals without swapping the heads I would consider it for a short term fix. Thanks

[Quidam]

Hey,

 

I can't think of any reason you can't replace the valve seals on the engine. Of course, you need to know how.

 

I have a valve spring tool for Chevys that you use in this situation, and I'm thinking you could fabricate something like that.

 

Doug

[MilesFox]

there are tools for removing valve springs with heads on-car. it may be tricky with the motor in the car, but you can still yank the motor to have better access. but then again, doing all that, its just the cost of head gaskets extra to pull the heads, and the time it takes to remove the intake.

 

if i was you i would go with the original idea and pull the heads, new gaskets, etc. in 9 months, if somehouw you dont get to ej'n, at least you have a motor that is not annoying you, and can go into another car from there.

[naru]

With 273K,guides gotta be tired.

[ferox]

Thanks guys

 

if i was you i would go with the original idea and pull the heads, new gaskets, etc. in 9 months, if somehouw you dont get to ej'n, at least you have a motor that is not annoying you, and can go into another car from there.

Yeah I think that is what I am going to do. I basically have a complete set of records for this car down to the original window sticker, and I have found no evidence that the heads or gaskets have ever been changed, so it stands to reason that some fresh heads would do a lot of good all around. As naru points out, the guides have to be worn as well. I hate to break down major components of a very functional and dependable engine, but if I do it right :-\ it will be so much the better for it.

[Ricearu]

1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer with each oil change will help. I know.

[letank]

1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer with each oil change will help. I know.

 

I used something similar w the jeep: Bardahl No smoke.... it took a while to work, it is as thick as honey, and you pour it when the engine is warm, I only put a little.... not the whole 6 oz at a time... only a couple of oz and waited, then added a little after a while.

 

It used to smoke only after warm startup... lets knock on wood... it is not as bad for now. Engine 199Kmiles, compression is good at 150 on all 8 cylinders.

 

Michel

[spazomatic]

With 273K,guides gotta be tired.

 

that's what I'm sayin...

 

I'd take a valve spring off, open the valve to it's max lift, and see how wobbly it is.