it's harder to describe it but if my car sits for 12 hours or more and I start it I get this rough ragged sounded idle which then builds then it runs normal after 20 or so seconds.

 

When the car

is warm i.e. going to the food store and jumping back in the car the car will go 900-500-800-750 rpms then idles at around 750.

 

I've cleaned the idle air controller but this is bugging the crap out of me because I can't pinpoint why it does this I'd say it's worst when it's colder out.

 

One person said it might be a injector leaking?

 

here is a sound clip

 

STE-010.mp3

 

motor has 217K and the timing belt was done about 9K miles ago

Could be.

20 sec isn`t a long time,but,if it clears after a quick rev you may be right.

A fuel pressure gauge would show declining pressure overnight.

 

Consider the spark plugs and wires as well.

the fuel lines should hold pressure overnight? Any links to a fuel injector kit I something I should be looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-INJECTION-PUMP-TESTER-TEST-INJECTOR-PRESSURE-GAUGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cedb1e7aaQQitemZ330405373866QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

 

This is one of the cheapo gauges I have.Works fine Lotsa sellers w/the same item.Don`t get sucked into buying an expensive one.

 

For injectors,it is best to have them ultrasonicly cleaned and tested at a local place that does diesel truck injectors.

Edited February 16, 201016 yr by naru

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-INJECTION-PUMP-TESTER-TEST-INJECTOR-PRESSURE-GAUGE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cedb1e7aaQQitemZ330405373866QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

 

This is one of the cheapo gauges I have.Works fine Lotsa sellers w/the same item.Don`t get sucked into buying an expensive one.

 

For injectors,it is best to have them ultrasonicly cleaned and tested at a local place that does diesel truck injectors.

 

I looked around and I thought when the injector was leaking it was just time to have it replaced?

 

I have to try that kit that you listed.

 

*edit

 

does this kit go in-line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail?

Edited February 16, 201016 yr by 1-3-2-4

Not completely familiar w/your engine.

 

Believe there is a Shrader valve(tire type) on the fuel rail.Simpifies matters a lot.

Sounds like my Ranger on a cold start.

I'd be inclined to say your CTS is on the way out.

Sounds like my Ranger on a cold start.

I'd be inclined to say your CTS is on the way out.

 

What is a CTS?

ahh must be coolant temp sensor.

Edited February 17, 201016 yr by 1-3-2-4

Agreed on cts, that's what it sounds like to me too.

I will hook my scope up to the sensor this weekend what should I expect to see as far as a normal range? and if it comes to replacing it is it nessary to drain the coolent?

I will hook my scope up to the sensor this weekend what should I expect to see as far as a normal range? and if it comes to replacing it is it nessary to drain the coolent?

 

For the most part when driving, engine runs between 180 and 185. Sitting when it's warm out, temps can get up over 200 until the second fan kicks in.

yeah I noticed that during the summer.. anyways I guess I don't need to drain the coolant when replacing the CTS so I will order one.

moving slow but I finally brought the fuel tester today turns out the link that was given to me is the same kit at harbor freight.

 

Anyways in general how does the meter connect? the fuel filter output to the fuel rail?

 

*EDIT

 

my FSM had the info I needed.

Edited February 27, 201016 yr by 1-3-2-4

hmm I haven't checked the pressure yet as I have to drop a family member off but I did replace the plugs this morning and check the resistance on the injectors.

 

all 4 injectors read 11 ohms So went to start it up to leave still same cold sound.

 

two things I can think of now... fuel pressure could be wacky when cold as in 10 hours sitting cold.. and when warm the pressure is inconsistent but not at idle just when starting.

 

head gaskets? but I have no bubbles or oil in the mix If the fuel pump tests ok then I can rule that out.

 

these plugs on the car are aftermarket I will check the resistance on them too

Edited February 27, 201016 yr by 1-3-2-4

issues seems to be taken care of.. I changed the spark plugs and no more chugging after starting up in the morning.

 

this is what the spark plugs looked like when I took them out.

 

 

I might reset the ecu over the weekend to see if it cures that weird idle dip when starting when warm.

What's going on with piston #1? That wouldn't make me happy.

valve gaskets.. the whole plug does not sit in the cylinder.

I understand how plugs don't all go into the cylinder ... just the end sticks in, just wondering what was causing all the leakage, I'd be worried it was something bad. but I dunno.

I'm not worried at all I highly doubt the valve cover gaskets have been done yet it just gives me something to do when I pull the motor.

question can the fuel rail be lifted out with the injectors still in to check for leaks?

 

also it seems grey tops were for the CA emissions and red for everyplace else?

question can the fuel rail be lifted out with the injectors still in to check for leaks?

 

also it seems grey tops were for the CA emissions and red for everyplace else?

 

To check for a leaking injector? Just pull the plugs out. Much easier on these. Remove plugs, prime fuel system. Just don't try to crank it with the coil pack plugged in.

To check for a leaking injector? Just pull the plugs out. Much easier on these. Remove plugs, prime fuel system. Just don't try to crank it with the coil pack plugged in.

 

correct me if im wrong but how will I be able to see if it's leaking from just pulling the plug? I'm not talking about a waterfall leak.

You'll smell it. You could also pull one plug at a time after priming the system 3 or 4 times and sniff around the hole. (that sounds kinda dirty to be honest... )

Fresh gas will be evident if there is a leak.

ah sniffing the hole

 

I guess removing the plugs can't be bad.. I replaced them about 10K miles ago.