I have a leaking fuel tank and decided to throw a tank in the back so I can drop the old tank and see if it can be repaired.

 

What I need to know, hopefully by later today if possible, if the intake and return fuel lines are the same size or different. I am using an old Toyota tank and it shows the lines being one size and I remember there being mention of two different size lines when removing the tank but I no longer have access to the manual that mentioned it.

 

Thank you

I don't know about the Gen 1's specifically, but in the 80 to 84 body style, the supply is about 5/16" and the return is a bit smaller than 1/4" - probably about 5mm. I used 1/4" fuel injection line when I changed the rubber in the return line's over to high pressure - it's a bit large but works if you clamp it.

 

GD

Thanks for the info, got lines of both sizes and it worked out great!

 

Here is the final result

Well - that's certainly..... different.

 

Good luck fixing the old tank. There are sealer products out there that can repair small holes.

 

GD

LOL. Out here in my neck of the woods it's a common thing to see farmers with tanks in th beds of their trucks, and there are a few pulling trucks that have the tank in the bed as well. That is what gave me the idea.

 

If I can fix the old tank, it will take just a few mins to switch everything over.

Thanks for the info, got lines of both sizes and it worked out great!

 

Here is the final result

 

Can anyone hear the sound of duelling banjos? Just kidding dude, that is awesome

LOL.

 

Well, just to give you an idea how redneck it is around here......I took this pic a mile down the road from here.

 

Edited April 3, 201015 yr by MaddCelt
Found the pic

LOL.

 

Well, just to give you an idea how redneck it is around here......I took this pic a mile down the road from here.

 

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

Goddammit I love America.

Well, despite all the work I just put into my brat, I may have to sideline her. The vapor canister just crapped out on me and I do not think I'll find another any time soon, if ever.

You don't need the vapor canistor - I don't run them on any of my cars. Chuck it into that chevy as you drive by.

 

GD

Ok, but I'll need help getting all the lines where they need to go.

 

A walk through would be great!

Pull the fuel tank vapor line (the rubber part) loose from the firewall and leave it open. Find the line that hooks to the carb float bowl - leave that open. Cap all the other's and you're done. The tank and carb bowl need the vapor lines open to the atmosphere to prevent pressure from forming due to evaporating gasoline. The other lines are just there to facilitate the purging of the canistor and will not be used if you aren't useing the canistor.

 

GD

Now that made me feel very uneducated, lol.

 

I'll pull out my repair manual and look over the parts so I can figure out what you said.

 

There are three lines comming from the tank - fuel supply, fuel return, and a vapor line. So whichever isn't hooked to the liquid gasoline lines is pretty much the one you want.

 

On the carb there should be an electric solenoid on carb itself that opens/closes the vapor line from the float bowl. Look for that and you should find the rubber line to connects from the carb to the hard-line's under the manifold - being an older 1600 it may not have the solenoid, but look for a line comming off near the bowl. Trace the hard line to the vapor canistor connection point and just don't cap whichever one it turns out to be. Cap the rest of the hard lines (a bit of the old tubing with a bolt threaded in the end works just fine) and you are done.

 

GD

Ok, that makes more sense. Only prob was I removed the canister already. I know, bad form.

 

I can take pics and post them and see if we can figure it out, you game?

Sure - post some pics if you like. I'll do my best.

 

GD

I hooked the smaller line (#4) to the matching sized line.

 

She started with no gas leaks.

 

The 3rd line with the large section intakes air. Unplugged it makes the engine run rough. Plugged it runs better. I plugged it for a bit and it idled like before but it would choke when reved and quite often would drop rpm til it almost stopped unless I gave it gas.

 

The second line does nothing plugged or unplugged, so I kept it unplugged.

 

 

Here is the canister

 

The lines are as follows, lt to rt

vc, purge, f.tank, cb

The lines are as follows, lt to rt

vc, purge, f.tank, cb

 

Leave the f.tank and cb open and plug the other two.

 

GD

Pull the fuel tank vapor line (the rubber part) loose from the firewall and leave it open. Find the line that hooks to the carb float bowl - leave that open. Cap all the other's and you're done. The tank and carb bowl need the vapor lines open to the atmosphere to prevent pressure from forming due to evaporating gasoline. The other lines are just there to facilitate the purging of the canistor and will not be used if you aren't useing the canistor.

 

GD

 

Will the vapor line drain fuel when it's unplugged?

Well, ain't this a b**ch.

 

Go out to start work yet again and try to start it, a loud thunk occurs, the engine moves a slight bit, then nothing.

Will the vapor line drain fuel when it's unplugged?

 

No

 

GD

Well, ain't this a b**ch.

 

Go out to start work yet again and try to start it, a loud thunk occurs, the engine moves a slight bit, then nothing.

 

You mean it doesn't turn over by hand? Or that the starter has stopped spinning?

 

GD

Wife suggested hitting the starter with a hammer and so I did, didn't start that time but turned a hel of alot better. So add a starter to the list of repairs.

Might just need dissasembled and the contacts cleaned.

 

GD