fixitguy50 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 I have a bad shimmy when stopping, I found that the right tie rod has excess movement on where it goes into the rack and pinion. Both boots are cracked, but no fluid leakage. The left tie rod end is tight. Should I replace parts or replace the rack and pinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 "bad shimmy when stopping," maybe the front brake rotors are warped? Subaru steering racks are very dependable, seldom break. When you say the right tie rod has excessive movement, do you mean the tie rod is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Check for play in the rack perpendicular to the shaft. grab the end with your hand and try to wiggle it up and down to check for wear on the bushings. If you can't see or feel any movement replace the inner ends (best to do both of them) and put new boots on it. The shimmy may be caused by a warped brake rotor, but is probably being made to feel much worse because of the slop in the tie rod. Don't be surprised if the shimmy isn't 100% gone after the tie rods are replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitguy50 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 The manual I have for my 1999 Legacy L shows a locking washer that has to be bent with a chisel that secures the inner end of the inner tie rod. They show replacement as part of rack inspection and rebuild. Has anyone changed this type of inner tie. Does the rack need to be pulled to provide access to the lock washer. The inner end of the tie road feel loose in its socket whether wiggling side to side or up and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 The manual I have for my 1999 Legacy L shows a locking washer that has to be bent with a chisel that secures the inner end of the inner tie rod. They show replacement as part of rack inspection and rebuild. Has anyone changed this type of inner tie. Does the rack need to be pulled to provide access to the lock washer. The inner end of the tie road feel loose in its socket whether wiggling side to side or up and down. Sounds like a bad inner tie rod end. The rebuild in the manual is exactly that, a rebuild. You can change the inner tie rods without removing the rack. I read a how-to somewhere and IIRC getting the boot on the rack on the drivers side was a bit of a challenge. The vibration when braking is likely warped front rotors and it may be made worse by the worn tie rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitguy50 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 Thanks Mike! I'm ordering the right inner tie rod end and both boots. Does anyone know what kind of grease to use ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 The new ones come pre-greased and they generally aren't serviceable so you don't have to worry about it. But get some Silicone spray lube. It helps a ton when installing the boots. The jam/lock washers will shear when you turn the joint with a wrench so don't worry about trying to un-punch them. Just be sure to punch the new ones in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Thanks Mike! I'm ordering the right inner tie rod end and both boots. Does anyone know what kind of grease to use ? You may want to order an outer tie rod end too. It is common for the boot on the outer tie rod end to be damaged during removal. You may also need an Inner Tie Rod Tool like this or maybe not depending on how difficult it is to access. Some have said its not needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixitguy50 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 So, I replaced the right inner tie rod and had the vehicle aligned. I replaced the front rotors about two weeks ago to deal with the shimmy. The vehicle handles much better, but still seems to grab when the applying a moderate amount of force to the brakes. Push harder or softer and it not as pronounced. The alignment shop said to change the rear rotors (which also have internal shoes for the parking brake). Since all four wheels were checked for balance and the car has just been aligned, I don't think its a steering, wheel or tire problem. What do you think guys, rear rotors or a drivetrain problem ? Any recommendations ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Does the steering wheel pull in one direction when you apply the brakes or does the car just drag of to one side? If you notice the wheel pull it's something with the front brakes, if the whole car moves then it's probably the rears. Did you bleed the brakes at all when you changed the pads and rotors? Do you know how long it has been since that has been done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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