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i have a 96 legacy outback 2.5L dohc ej25d with auto trans, where can i find a diagram or schematic breakdown of all parts inside, mostly concerned with seeing what is inside the bell houseing, have a noise coming from something inside between engine block and main body of transmission,

 

almost sounds like there is a bad bearing or something inside, makes a high pitch whining sound, i recently bought the car dirt cheep knowing it had a few issues, but the body is in superb condition so i knew it would take a little work to end up with something very nice. when i got the car i noticed it was missing a rubber plug up in the top of the bell housing, i think it was called the timing hole plug, i dont know how long it has been missing but my thinking is it had left the flywheel and what ever else is inside exposed by not having the cover on it, so who knows what has gotten inside and possible ruined what ever bearing there may be in there,

 

any ideas or a place to get a diagram of what is actually inside would be appreciated.

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[...] mostly concerned with seeing what is inside the bell houseing, have a noise coming from something inside between engine block and main body of transmission,

 

almost sounds like there is a bad bearing or something inside, makes a high pitch whining sound [...]

Are you sure the noise isn't from inside the trans? A failing front pump can make a sound such as you're describing. Besides the noise, are there any other issues with the trans (delayed engagement, slippage, etc.)?

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yeah someone else mentioned the fluid pump, and the more i listen to it, that is what it seems to be, nothing else is wrong with the tranny drives and shifts great, now the next question is how hard is this to change? and if the pump is shot am i better off to get a new transmission. ive got a quote off the internet for a warrantyed complete tranny for 695 and then i can drop and put it in myself, im calling a shop on monday to get a quote to fix the problem, but im wondering if the pump is going bad how much damage has this created that isnt known yet? and if i take it to a shop they may pull the tranny and tell me the pump killed the rest of the tranny and that they will need to replace it, and that leads to excessive labor and parts that i could end up doing myself, ill pull and swap a tranny but im not going to get into pulling the tranny apart and trying to fix things inside it.

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I have had experience on other transmissions where the pump made noise and filled the transmission fluid with lots of fine metal particles. Its' hard to say but I would think a trans R&R would make the most sense. My experience with transmission shops (at least the chain ones) is that they want to rebuild your transmission often at high cost. Changing it yourself limits your exposure to the cost of the trans that you know ahead of time.

 

That's my $0.02

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think this response from your other thread, pretty well answers your original question.

 

trans pump is not accessible through the pan. remove the transmission and separate the front diff from the transmission assembly to get to the pump.

 

in general these transmissions are robust making used a very good option. since there's a low demand they're often easy to find cheap. i bought an EJ 4EAT a few years ago from a yard with a 90 day warranty, under 100,000 miles for $150. hardly worth fixing the old one for that price, although that's below average. point is, you might want to look and price it out just to see what you can find.

 

someone on here might even have a known good transmission for you.

 

Gloyale has a great write up on removing the front diff, might want to check that thread out. You'll start getting into work that effects the backlash and that's critical to not screw up or you'll be fixing it again. Not terribly hard and with help from this board you should be good to go, but a fair warning in case you've never dove into trans/diffs before.

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Get a used one.

 

You don't want the headache of changing out the pump.

 

Just the seals will be around $100 (tube seal, rear gaseket, pump gasket) and I can't even imagine the cost of the pump.

 

Then as mentioned, with a new pump body you will have to measure and reshim the Pinion shaft. (since final end position is determined by the pump body thickness + shims + case length)

 

And it is very possible that the reason the pump is shot is from improper installation of the Torque converter at some point in the past, which means the Pump drive tube is shot, and likely the Torque converter itself deformed.

 

 

Common car........lots of good used trans out there.......unless you want to really dig into one or pay ALOT to have it rebuilt.

 

 

FYI, there are no bearings in the bellhousing. Whining in that area, consistant with engine speed is 90% likely the pump.

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