I am going to replace my oil pump seals and was wondering if it was wise to change the pump too...it has 143000 mi. about how much is a pump anyway?

thanks

eric

do a search

My mechanic explained to me that the pump itself was easier to replace than the actual gasket seals. In other words if your going to take replace the oil pump gasket it probably is a wise idea to replace the oil pump also. Besides if the oil pump was not leaking, then the gasket would probably not be leaking also.

 

However, I personally wouldn't do it myself, I had my mechanic do the job.

Im pretty handy and have a decent amount of tools, so I think I can tackle the pump swap. Thanks for the advice...I also did the search and found that many seals/lifters/lashers may be to blame for ticking and...well...it will just take time, knuckle skin, and $$$!

Nutt to anser your question a pump is around 100 GWs, These folks have preety good prices

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/

But you mat wabt to email Richierich, he has factory pumps at real good prices. See his comments here

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11464&highlight=rebuild+kit%2A

 

Now do you have a manual? You might consider doing some other maintance as you will have the entire front of the engine dismantled.

There are quite a few items you may want to change.

Just a thought in case you want to get the parts before hand.

Good luck,

Skip,

Thanks for the connections...I do have a Haynes and I am making a collection of parts to go under the hood in one long session. these are the items I am collecting:

-oil pump seal kit

-oil pump

-(water pump is new)

-t belts

-valve cover gaskets

anything else you think I should do? Im new to these engines so Im learning as I go...thanks

eric

make sure to use a 1/4" drive ratchet, and be easy on tyhe bolts so you dont twist them off.

 

when tightening, and if you dont have a torque wrench, tighten the bolts till snug, then 1/4 turn, dont tighten too much, its threaded in aluminum

 

singe you have to tear down thr motor so far, you may consider doing the timing belts or water pump at the same time

 

when tightening, snug the longest bolt first, then the 3 around the sprocket, then the one on the left. then torque in the same order

 

read this too

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

 

Subaru Service

Eric, you are doing a fine job so far.

The cam seals and the main crank seal are on the normal "to be replaced" list.

You are at the mileage that the T belt tensioner idler bearings may want replaced.

Check that little elbow hose coming out of the H20 pump.

(Cam covers => valve covers)

Read up on the T belt replacement.

The Underware manual (Haynes) is a little corn fusing.

Yankin' the rad makes it easier and if it hasn't been replaced- well

see if it looks like this => toast

 

Will I need any special tools for the idler bearings, cam seals or crank seal replacement? Also my car had a clogged single core rad so I got a dual core from radiators.com. the car runs at 190 now instead of 230 on the freeway:D it would not survive 100+ deg. summers here! I am also replacing my belt fan for an elec.

thanks,

eric