nutt7

or an oil cooler! oh, the possibilities!

My wagon ran cooler (about 10 deg.) when I removed the condenser...didnt notice any power gains though

well, I finally got this all done with. I am getting $2000 for my wagon after minor haggling. I only paid $700, but I still feel a loss. They did not care that the only GL10 I could find was in WA for $3K. I have a free 88 VW fox that I will be driving now. I will own a soob again...I will be patient for a good deal to come by (not too many soobs here)...If you dont know what I am talking about, check here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20638&page=1&pp=10 I guess this is 'see ya later' for now. I will stop in from time to time to motivate myself to plan out a killer soob and to check on all of your projects too. still sad,

yeah, I already gave the testimony...theres also no need to change my story, thanks though

do the lug stud wedging into something approach. If its in the front, pull the ebrake as hard as possible. Use a breaker bar teamed with a 4 foot pole

they offered me $475 for pain suffering lost wages etc., not including what the car is worth to them. I did not choose to settle yet...not lookin good...we will see. I went today to release the car to the insurance co. and removed my stereo, gauges, etc. I noticed in the glovebox that the original msrp, addendum, owners supplement, maintenance guide, and dealer locator guide were still in there...good luck finding another with all that in it. I think it listed like $13k new with undercoat and all options. It was originally purchased by an insurance company and it died belonging to an insurance company...poor car. a closer look after I bent the hood up with lots of force revealed the radiator becoming one with the front of the engine, the alternator and battery are now married, and a t-belt broke and numerous odds and ends bent or out of place. It may be not worth buying back. I did leave my vents and roof rack on though, the rack would not fit in the jeep. theres a nice blue one at the jy that looks like someone donated it half way through a head job...hmm

luvmybrat, wyoming is way too far for me...I have a spare car and patience...so I will wait til another one pops up. wjm, they said I have the option to buy it back for the price they would get from a jy...dont know how much that is, but I put too many hours into it recently (crank pulley bolt!) and reseal, cams, new shocks for the hatch (2days before wreck!) etc to just give it up...we will see. Their insurance also said I should get a rental...I thought that was cool...I go tomorrow to clear out my stereo and all that stuff so their 'total loss' dept. can pick it up

ldy k, if you are talking about my GRAY wagon, it is a 5spd 4wd s'ko, I am not out to hose anyone. I just want whats fair. I hope their claims guy is like you

I dont know what it takes, but I have a condenser and the lines in the engine bay if you decide to go through with this.

caleb, I would like to talk after I talk to my claims person and their insurance tomorrow...just to see what they say. GD, I have an 88 vw pending a title, and I am borrowing a car for now...so I have time. 91 loyale, the radiator is busted and its resting on my pulleys. you cant turn the wheels or they will hit the fenders. I cant even open the hood (with decent force) due to the way the hinges bent its just sitting at a tow yard incurring daily charges.

thanks for the advice everyone. I have not settled yet. I talk to the people on Monday. I am not out to hose anyone, even though I am not a fan of insurance or oil companies at all. I want the value of my car plus some for inconvenience. I missed work today and my Dr bill was only $125. I may push for $2500. I will try for it. thats what I feel is fair. because of this I...missed a day of work, I have to go back to school and get another permit, I could not help my sister move, I will have to bum cars or rides to work for a week or so, I could not build a bunk bed that I was supposed to on the day of the accident, so my roomie and I are crammed in this room, my neck hurts, oh yes, and my subaru, with lots of new parts, is dead. shoot, maybe I will go for $3000 or more. this sucks

note the new school parking permit on the windshield. and how the hood vents survived. I also left my stereo/gauges in there for now until I am positive they will total it out.

the go banana! was murdered. A woman in an SUV failed to yield on a left turn. I t-boned her. heres the story: I got my parking permit and ID for school and was heading home on a 3 lane road (each direction). the 2 left lanes were backed up 10 cars or so deep so I was cruising down the right lane at 35mph (limit 45) since I was going to turn anyway. Unbeknownst to me, two cars in the left lanes were allowing a woman to turn left into a private drive. I saw the nose of the vehicle 10-15 feet in front of me and slammed the brakes. It was too late. I hit her at about 30mph, tipped her up on two wheels and spun her 120' while my soob got smashed in and to the right on the front end. It looks like God smacked my roo in the face! She was cited, I was not. everyone is ok, I just had whiplash. now I am waiting for the claims adjusters to give me way less money than my roo is worth to me. They are hard to come by here. I may not be able to get another one...sad day for nutt7 :-\ see the carnage here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3036

once heat hits that camo duct tape it wrinkles up a little...they are starting to fade a little too...I could just slap another strip over it and call it a day thanks for looking

most of the pics have descriptions if you click them. tell me what you think. heres the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3036

no worries, thanks

they just posted prices on the first post...about $400 for UP and $185 for DP

the up pipe. changing the diameter of this pipe may not be necessary or effective (not 100% sure) what will help is to make the two pipes enter into a collector evenly as opposed to the way it tis now, where the passenger side exhaust enters the pipe perpendicular, thus disrupting flow and probably causing turbulence. mandrel bends are always good too. making the pipes equal length to the collector will probably help too. if you have the cash, get in on that TWE order in here. as for the down pipe, 2.5 in will probably be plenty and if a cat must be used, place it down stream a bit.

GD, i read your post after the fact...lesson learned baccaruda, i know. few trips around town and its holding up ok. i will begin to hunt down a short block for a good price, until then...

wow...what I did is risky, but this is my daily driver and changing a crank or engine will break the bank, and I will have no car for awhile the bolt broke inside the tapered end, so griding or grabbing was out, not skilled enough to weld or torch a solution (in this situation, Im pretty sure it would not work) I came up with a solution -am I proud of it? no -will it hold up? so far, yes time will tell -is it safe? hardly -would I recommend it? not to my worst enemy -is it a damn fine piece of po' white boy engineering? you betcha read the descriptions of the pics in the 'crank pulley' section. that should answer most of your questions. Im open to criticism and Im glad I could entertain you. heres the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3036 thanks for the advice,

well, the bolt did break in there, it is not sticking out. oddcomp, the pin was in. it must have broke when the pulley was shaking before the bolt actually fell out...it took a small chunk out of the pulley and the sprocket. I could not find another one at the jy with a spot for a pin...weird shawn, this all happened 1/4 mile from work, so the temp got up to 235 with no boil over so I think the engine is safe. If the crank has to come out anyway, it may be worth the investment thanks everyone for the advice im off to the hardware store to try and drill this puppy out...wish me luck

I am a complete moron. Here' why: -the other day, my crank pulley bolt came loose while I was driving (when I wanted it off before, it was very stubborn, now it just shimmied itself loose!). then my crank pulley came off. naturally, the car got hot fast and my idiot lights turned on. luckily I made it to work. -today, I went to the jy to get a new pulley, sprocket, and bolt because all of my parts were damaged (not very bad, but bad enough to replace for safe measure) I began to tighten the pulley bolt and ran into some resistance...I was in too deep now, no turning back, so I continue to tighten...SNAP! crank pulley bolt--in half now. I would have cried, but my friend was watching. if I cant extract and re-tap this, I may go insane. Has this been done before? dont worry, I didnt leave this experience without re-learning a few things I already knew...figures 1.) when its 110 out + humidity, dont work in the sun. It impairs judgement and rational thought...heat defies competence and decreases golden patience 2.) if you test fit with one bolt, dont use another to finish the job, especially a crank pulley bolt. 3.) if you run into resistance while tightening a bolt, its not too late. go ahead and back out (see lesson 1) its better to re-tap than to break a crank pulley bolt in the crankshaft. now my problem is bigger. we will see what happens. do YOU have any advice for me? thanks

no stock crx is 160hp. the crx si is like 120hp, single cam no vtec. the 99-00 civic si is the only civic in the states with the doch vtec with 160hp...many many many civics and crx's have jdm motors though, so i bet it had one of those, and they can be quick, my vtec motor ran a 14.5 with intake/exhaust...so its no shame to lose to one in an older soob Will, im rootin for you! Ill wait till you blow a few motors and when you find a sweet setup.............I will copy you

unless they are freeair subs (dont think jl makes them), they will shake stuff, but you wont get much, or good sound. guaranteed. subs also make no difference facing in or out. they will also only sound as good as the amp you use. Im with samo for cutting out the square and stuffing a box in there. those subs probably need 0.5 cu.ft or less per sub for a sealed box (check specs, it depends what model w0, w3 etc) a 13x13x8.5 box made from MDF, will yield about 0.53 cu.ft, which will probably be plenty. they may stick out a tad, but wont go past the inner fender wells, still leaving you a nice square area to put stuff go to jl's site. its very informative and offers awesome box building tips hope this helps

try cleaning the spring and throttle linkage. do you feel the pedal resting lower when the throttle sticks?...knowing this will at least tell you if the issue lies in the linkage as for your doors, my locks and power windows were stuck when I got my 86. I took apart the inner doors and used lots of wd40 and Li grease to help loosen things up. worked great, good luck