nutt7

ok, the fuel filter has about 3k miles on it. I dont believe there is one in the back, besides, the car died going 35 so I dont think the filter would choke up that fast and decide to clear up in a day or so and work fine for a few miles, then choke up again. the MAF or VAM or whatever is the older one, flapper I think. It will be disconnected later as well as the o2 sensor (one at a time) to see if this helps. I was doing more searches and it is looking like a bad ignition module could be added to the "to check" list...one post titled "another no start thread" had nearly identical symptoms so I will thoroughly inspect the "spark stuff" when I get off of work tonight. Keep the ideas coming! thank you all for the input so far I WILL fix this!!!

the fuse block under the dash? no, I will check tonight. I was searching and came up on a post where you said there was some sort of loose sensor(s) on the manifold of an 88 tubo wagon you bought...what was that about? I also came up on a few that indicated a bad MAF...can I clean out the MAF with parts cleaner?...would the MAF be an intermittent issue? thanks calebz, eric

As you may have read from some of my other posts, my 86 turbo wagon is randomly crapping out while driving or idling and then it wont start...let it sit for a day or so and then it starts and runs for awhile before doing it again. The problem has persisted for months, with the frequency increasing. It started with the an occasional difficulty starting to dying going 35mph up a hill with lots of traffic (today) SYMPTOMS -car will run fine and randomly crap out and wont restart -fuel pump still primes to 40-50psi when car dies -when running, all injectors "click" -when running, the FPR works and fuel pressure increases 6psi with vac hose off POSSIBLE PROBLEMS -FPR -injectors -fuel pump -something in the lines -MAF -TPS -i wouldnt suggest the ignition because the problem happened before and after I replaced the coil, cap and rotor, wires, and the plugs have 5k miles -in the early stages of this problem, I could get the car to start by tapping the ig. coil/fuel pump fuse in and out of the fuse holder any ideas? how to troubleshoot? anything I could be missing? thanks, eric

I wouldnt go past zero toe. it makes the rear lose control too easy...also keep in mind the more negative your camber, the less control/traction you have going straight, as your tires will ride only on their edges whenever you are not cornering. I would think no more than -2deg camber...these are ideas from experience and wise counsel, but also for front drive cars with low pro tires. an AWD sube on squishy 60-70 tires may handle different

thanks archemitis, I went to napa and they said the part was like $75 and I thought, oh, that must be the premium one. then he said we dont have that one in stock, but we have the premium one for $105...I told him I would hold off till I was sure of the prob...thanks though

ok, got a fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up right after the fuel filter...I tried to start the car (wouldnt start the other day) and it fired right up. figures. fuel pressure was at 36 at 1000 rpm, a bit higher than spec, but I think its due to the cams because at idle with these cams there is less vacuum, less vac at the FPR means more pressure from the pump. so 36psi at 1000rpm and 42psi with vac. hose off the fpr and 60psi with fuel return pinched and 40psi upon startup prime and 55 or so psi while driving at WOT now when I turn off the car at 36psi, after a minute, the pressure climbs to 40 and stays there for at least 10 minutes. does all this sound ok? I will recheck after the prob happens again...

thanks guys...archemitis, is there a specific year range or model of ford? I can picture the cashier looking at me like I am a moron as I try to explain my situation...

would this work? anyone know if the wrx fuel pump is an in-tank or not? I saw one on ebay for cheap and I do not want to spend $180 for a new ea82t one right now

I heard thats one way to do it...I had no options at the time...I couldnt tell if the pump was even on...but now I have a car to borrow so I can get a pressure gauge...

86 turbo If i pull the fuel line off after the filter and crank the engine, how far should the fuel shoot? I got about 3 inches maybe. Should it not shoot like 10 feet or so? I dont have access to a fuel pressure gauge as I cant get to the store...if you would like to read about the cars symptoms click here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17258 thanks, eric

Good question marck, I too would like to know

Hey there... 86 turbo wagon every once in a while my car wont start...crankety crank crank nothing...if I pull the fuse for the fuel pump and tap it in and out of its holder while cranking, it will eventually fire up...this happens only once in a while...the frequency follows no pattern at all. this has been happening for 2 months now. today I drove to PAP in search of an oil cooler (more on this later) and the car ran fine. I go to start it to go to work and it starts fine...reverse out of the driveway and at the bottom it dies...start it back up after a few attempts of the above methods and drive sluggishly to the end of the street and it dies again...start it again and reverse to the house...got a ride to work...I suspect fuel pump...my filter is new, plugs, wires, coil, pretty new. I am not at home to troubleshoot so I was hoping someone may know whats up. when I did get it started again, it did not want to rev fast at all..it felt all sputtery...any help appreciated thanks btw how much is a fuel pump? ballpark $ eric

whos messed up in the head!?!?? :-\ yebudayebudayebuda hooodyhoooooo I am a subaruuuuuuuuuuuuu ..........oh wait, I am.

as long as you convert to 134a you should be ok. The lines, however, I would have done at an ac shop...you cant just weld them up...they either braze or solder them...let us know how it goes...sounds like the wagon is coming along nicely...any updated pics? you still coming to AZ? it was 111deg today! make sure the wagons cooling system is up to par! eric

ea81 and ea82 refer to the different generations of subarus and their engines, I am not sure about the exact years, someone will chime in...I just wanted to say ask as many questions as you want, thats why everyone is here...and remember: there are no stupid questions, just stupid people eric

Have you tried makin a u-turn in a ford truck? you need 7 lanes! A sube does it in like 1.5 lanes! My sube got hi-centered (not lifted) on a soft dirt birm and I wedged a 2x4 under the back tire and pryed it over the birm! try doing that with a truck or jeep! (I am 5'5", 150lbs of sissy) If you have some 2x4s and a shovel, you can get out of just about anything... , with a subaru, that is

I pay about $50 a month---liability only

I live minutes from Tempe...anyone want to buy it I will gladly store it til you pick it up Promise I wont drive it...

I recently had some similar issues (no surging though) but poor lighting when the cooling fans turned on or the ac was on and no memory for my dash trip meter. I replaced the big alt. wire as stated above with an 8 gauge wire and I soldered an additional 8 gauge wire from the battery to the fusible links...it helped a little, the memory works, windows go up faster, not as much dimming (but some) I hope this helps.

there are a few of these cd's on ebay...they are cheaper than FSMs ($10) does anyone know anything about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7902912818&category=6032

plug wires, cap and rotor sound like a good plan...any wires better than others? thanks for the replies, eric

d'oh! Another thing to buy. at least I get paid tomorrow...sort of. I wont be able to enjoy any of my hard earned cash...sucks when all your bills are due at once! thanks

there was no r12 when I started, everything eventually escaped those bad o-rings I replaced...its been dry for at least 4 months. where is this IUCD? thanks, eric

I was doing some electrical work on my car and noticed the end of my coil was leaking oil all in the wire boot and down the wire a little...does this mean the coil is heading south? thanks, eric

I agree with taprackready. It can help though...I noticed smoother idle and less dimming lights on my old civic, have not tried it on the sube yet Make sure you at least run a wire from each head to the chassis and a couple off the battery to the chassis too