nutt7

we call it the roock raf...by buddy Jackson was very tired the morning we left to go camping...he told me "nice roock raf" and it stuck...it is made of 1/2'' steel square tubing, mig welded by yours truly and my roommate, Brown (Im a rookie welder). it mounts to the stock rack's rails via 6 points and held 2 full coolers, a tent, tarp, chairs, and sleeping bags for 400+ mile with no probs. total cost...under $20...im proud of it:D tell me what you think...

someone on the USMB pointed out a site with a dash kit for my 86 wagon that holds the trip meter too...I didnt like the uneven finish of the abs, so I went commando! tell me what you think! by the way, its camo duct tape, from the local army surplus store...

just some FYI for people that want to do this...the years of the accord that will fit are 86-89...I dont know if others will too... nice work rallyruss...I think I will hit up the jy tomorrow:)

WJM, can I send you the $35 via paypal, and when you get these adapters, just send me one? Do I send it to the email in your sig? or should we wait for more orders? thanks for the help... eric

WJM, a couple weeks ago, you said if you get 4 people to be interested in these adapters you would order some and send them to us...I believe you had three interested -nutt7 (me) -scrapdaddytatum -snowman ....anyone else interested??

hence the avatar...GLAVEN!!

Shean, tell radio shack you need a 30 amp relay for your car and they should have one...its like a 1.5'' cube with a tab sticking out the top and 5 metal prongs out the bottom...I can post a pic if you want... also, I ran a magnetic switch in the ashtray behind the center console in my civic and with the ashtray open, it would not start because the magnet was too far from the switch...close the tray and the magnet sits right over the switch, activating the relay, which in turn connected the starter wires. another magnet switch idea would be to adhere the switch inside a plastic panel somewhere and touch a magnet over it while starting the car...you can put the magnet on a key chain or hide it in the car or something... i like this kinda stuff so let me know if you need help -eric

oddcomp, thanks for the link! I ordered one and still have my best buy receipt to return the other kit!:cool:

hey meeky, wanna trade dash kits?

wow. $145 thats no good...I think I will leave it rigged for now and just keep a 'T' and some vac lines in the car JIC. Thanks for your help guys

I thought the IAC had an electrical connector...im pretty sure this sensor doesnt...I could be wrong...

86 ea82t on the back of my intake manifold (passenger side) there is a sensor with 2 or 3 vacuum lines on it. What is it? I broke the end tube for the vac line thats the farthest out and have the vac line super glued on:) the vac lines run to the charcoal canister (at least the broken one does) I would like to replace it but I dont know its name. thanks eric

I dont know how to check a water pump but it might be worth in to have the radiator inspected. How many miles are on the pump? Does the gauge ever read past 3/4 and fully overheat? if it is not the radiator, and everything is working like you say it does, I would say its the pump thats wearing out, however someone who has owned a soob longer than me might know something I dont... 2 more possibilities, although unlikely, belt tension is too tight, or a bad gauge/sender good luck

thats clean! where did you get that dash kit that fits the trip meter too? Im in the process of relocating mine because I couldnt find a kit that fit them both...

a lot of people run 20w 50 from what I hear...do a search and you will discover lots of good arguments/opinions/testimonies etc.

that thing looks tight!

could be...water pump, air bubbles in cooling system, no oil, bad oil, oil pump. If you lose coolant, It could be a blown head gasket, coolant in the cylinders could cause rough idle. I cant think of any others right now. check the oil first...do a search also...you will get a lot of good info...good luck

Also check the metal coolant line that runs from the t-stat housing to the rubber hose to the turbo. Mine had a very small crack in it and coolant hissed and bubbled out. I thought it was the coolant hose but it was actually the hose itself and the metal tube...stop leak fixed my situation... I had the same problem with overheating when driven but not at idle and it was the radiator...it had crap all clogged up in there... If you think about it, (considering the t-stat works), if your car stays cool sitting there, your pump is probably ok, and at 900rpm or so, your radiator doesnt need to be very efficient to work. but when you drive, the few rows that arent clogged in the radiator arent efficient enough to keep it cool under load...just a thought to consider...hope it helps...good luck

WJM, what size are the in/out tubes of the adapter? i am going to scrap a cooler from the jy, and I would like to get one of the same size... thanks

Cool, Keep tuning bro:cool: check your most recent oil cooler adapter post...I want one!

WJM, sign me up for the wait list, it got 93' here in Phoenix yesterday! its MARCH! gotta cool that oil! keep me posted thanks eric

I noticed full powerband gains. mostly when the turbo spools. upper rpms pull much harder. 10 hp more, I would guess. definately noticable though...before the cams, I could barely feel the turbo kick, after the cams, they start to break my 13s loose when the boost spools. keep in mind, I replaced my mech. fan and did the typical intake box mod at the same time. I believe the cams made most of the difference though... Oh yes, ignition timing is stock (25' BTDC) I havent tried changing it yet. hope this helps, eric WJM, I dont know the deal with yours, but an absolute noticable difference was present upon the installation of my cams...good luck getting it figured out

bump calebz

i agree with the others about the tensioner. I routed mine a week ago from the crank sprocket-around the oil pump sprocket-idler sproket-then the cam sprocket and it worked out pretty easy. before you retension it, use your hand as the tensioner and push on the belt to ensure the timing mark stays aligned on the cam sprocket. on mine, I had to set it off a tooth because when I tensioned it, it pulled the cam sprocket over a bit.

86 turbo wagon 5spd shifter button 4wd (no d/r) 1.how fast can I go in 4wd? 2.do the front wheels lock in 4wd? (havent played with it too much) 3.is power distribution 50/50? 4.can I shift on the fly? 5.If I were feeling like having a rwd car:) , could I remove the front axles and plug the holes with axle-ends only, throw 'er in 4 wheel and go? can I drive it like that for as long as I want? or are there complications?...am I a moron? I want to understand my 4wd before I thrash around through the mud with it! thanks eric