KoolKatKodyJack Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 there are so many choices, i have no idea what the difference is. i drive a 1987 subaru gl hatch, 4wd d/r. i think i should get a 32/36 but what is the difference between DFEV and DGAV and DGEV and DGV. which one should i get and why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Depends on what you want. Do you have a 3-door coupe or a Hatch? Do you want electric, water, or manual choke? It's all about your preference. Any of the 32/36's will work if you desire the features and want to hook them up. Mostly it's a style of choke decision. You probably do not want any of the DFV's. DGV's are the standard around here. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KoolKatKodyJack Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 it is a hatchback......what is the difference between the water choke and electric, as far as installation, performance, and repair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 29, 2010 Share Posted April 29, 2010 Water has to be hooked up to the cooling system. It is typically the most accurate of the choke styles as it tracks the choke with the temp of the engine. Electric hooks to the electrical system and heats up over a specific time interval - it does not track the engine temp and as such pretty much requires maintenance adjustment every season. I prefer the DGV-5A which is the manual choke variant. Never requires adjustment - no wiring or coolant hoses. Just install a choke pull-cable and remember to open the choke as it warms or once you enter the freeway. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KoolKatKodyJack Posted April 29, 2010 Author Share Posted April 29, 2010 what else do i need to buy with the carb? ive heard something about jet, and adaptor plates, and intake manifolds? a little carification would be really cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 You need the adaptor plate, 1-3/4" air filter, and you want it jetted thusly: 140/140 mains 170/160 air bleeds 50/50 idle jets You may need to go up a size on the primary idle jet so you might want to also order a 55 and a 60 idle jet for the carb in order to tune it for your engine. I find that the EA81 likes the 50 or 55 while the EA82 wants a 60 or even 65 idle jet. That's been my experience. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 i've been thinking about the weber upgrade, what sort of performance/smoothness do you gain? my current setup is OK but there's a definate lull then surge when the second choke comes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 It's like night and day. I wont even drive a Subaru with the stock carb. Painful. It's got to be a Weber or fuel injection. The Weber improves low-end torque by a lot. Top end is about the same. Smoothness depends on how you drive it and how you jet it. They are progressive linkage carbs so at 2/3 primary throttle the secondary starts opening - no vacuum or demand driven secondary. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Sounds good! What's the fuel economy like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Same or better typically. But you will have a tendancy to drive more "aggressively" just because of the extra performance. If you drive normally (I don't) you can expect around 27 city, and I've seen near 31 highway on my hatch. Even driving like I stole the car - I still average about 25 which I'm perfectly alright with. I hate the gutless, "I'm about to get wiped off the earth by that semi", feeling of the Hitachi. :-\ GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Think I'll definately get one they're not even too expensive brand new, and if I tell myself the economy will be better then I'd be stupid not to get one right?! Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 I can get a new one, jetted up as GD suggests, for about £180, just wondering if I should get that or try and scrounge a used one, what should I look out for or are they pretty trouble free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Watch for worn throttle shafts. Other than that they are simple and easily rebuilt. I don't know if that's a good price or not- haven't looked up the exchange rates lately..... here you can get a Weber kit for about $325 to $375 depending on where you shop. My rule is that I pay about $100 for a Weber that needs a rebuild but has good throttle shafts. After I rebuild, rejet, add the adaptor and filter I'm usually right around $200. Any more than that and it wouldn't be worth it to buy one used as the cost would be too close to a new one and my time is not worth that little. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Throttle shafts being the shafts with the butterflies on? Or the little shaft on the linkage? Sorry if that's a dumb question, got a local specialist in mk1 and 2 escorts, he must have these carbs coming out his ears but he'll sell me junk if he can so I wanna know where to look exactly! Cheers for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 On my 87 GL (EA82) I found the 32/36 DFEV worked better for my setup. It let me route the throttle cable easier since it was mirrored. On an EA81 the DGEV worked better. The way in which you install it may vary so be aware of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Throttle shaft is the one with the butterflies - open them slightly so the butterfly isn't holding the shaft centered in the bore and wiggle them. There should be little to no side-play in the shaft. If you can detect more than half a millimeter or so you don't want that carb unless it's cheap - rebushing the shafts isn't so that's a point to bring the price down. You are probably looking at more than the carb is worth if you have to do both shafts but if it's a primary shaft rebush only then it might be worth it if the carb is less than $50. Basically they are worthless with bad shafts. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 sweet, i just rang my escort man and he's got a "really nice one" for £50 so i'm going to have a look later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtomtom Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Got my carb, all looks well. It's jetted as follows, 36 side 160, 135, 55. 32 side 165, 140 and 50. That seems the wrong way round? Which are the jets at the bottom of the float bowl? The profile in the manifold is smaller than the carb, would it be worth taking it off and milling it to match? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.