98LegacyGT Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Hello, I have a 98 Leacy GT with a 2.5L DOHC Auto. I just bought a 95 EJ22 out of a automatic. My question is, can I use my EJ25DOHC Intake manifold on the 2.2, or do I need to use the 2.2 manifold. Also, I didnt get a starter with my 2.2, will the one from my 2.5DOHC work? And one last question, the 2.2L has 147K miles on it, do you think I should replace the head gaskets whiles its out, or are they good, unlike the 2.5L. THANKS forr eading this and answering my questons!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 all the swap questions are answered here but you use the EJ22 manifold, they are not interchangeable (which means it's easier, just swap the engine). I wouldn't replace the EJ22 headgaskets, they don't unless they've been overheated or beat to death. Valve covers and timing belts/seals, I'd do all that while it's out. Definitely reseal the rear separator plate and replace it with the newer updated metal plates and screws. All of that is covered on here too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 Ok, I did search and got usefull info, but didnt see a clear answer if I could use my EJ25 manifold. But you answered that. Other question that I couldnt find an answer on was if I could use the 2.5DOHC started on my EJ22. thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tturnpaw Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) just switch over your throttle body and iac onto the 2.2 intake. your starter will work fine. maintenance is up to you not us. I would but others wouldnt. then again i dont use the stock garbage gaskets, i use cometics. As for reliability, the 2.5 is just as reliable as the 2.2 as long as you use arp studs and cometics. youre not supposed to reuse the 2.2 head bolts, but you can. again i use arp's so everyones opinion is different. arp studs are reusable btw. Edited May 24, 2010 by tturnpaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 yep, starters are interchangeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 Ok, cool. Thanks guys for you help, I ordered a complete gasket set off of ebay. Yea, yeah, I know before you tell me, they are cheap ebay gaskets. But, I'm using them anyway, and yes you are right about head bolts shouldnt be re-used, but I'v done my share of head gaskets on the 2.5 and never replaced the bolts and never had a problem. Glad to hear my starter will work. So, Before i sell my 2.5 core, I will save the throttle body to use in the 2.2l. THANKS So much for all your guys help. You are all awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 (edited) Probably best to leave the EJ22 head gaskets in place rather than replace them with cheap ebay gaskets. EJ22's don't blow headgaskets, so it's likely a waste of time to install inferior gaskets. Ask MDJC, he's seen multiple EJ aftermarket head gaskets fail. Maybe he'll chime in for you. I have yet to do an EJ22 head gaskets (because they never need it:lol:), but every other Subaru I've done you don't replace head bolts, no one on here does it. Replacing head bolts isn't an opinion, it comes down to the type of head bolts used, Subaru to my knowledge doesn't use Torque to Yield headbolts so replacing them is completely pointless. Good luck! Edited May 24, 2010 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 thanks for the adivise. Would anyone else like to chime in on replacing the head gaskets with cheap gaskets or recomend leaving alone? I already ordered the gasket kit, but I need the other gaskets in the set since I'm resealing the engine. thanks again for all your help and time. Planing on doing the swap this saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tturnpaw Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 (edited) Its not a requirement to replace bolts. I havent either. But they do stretch and that fatigues metal. I have broken a head bolt on my last head gasket swap just releasing the torque off of it. It didnt take much either. But again im finiky. "Edit" Did some research all over, everyone reuses. I just didnt like the idea when i broke one just removing it. Cheap gaskets work fine in my experience. Most of the issues with those are the front crank seals walking out, but i havent had an issue. Remember to use an OEM thermostat because those almost always have an issue. Edited May 25, 2010 by tturnpaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Great!! Thanks again everyone for their input. If anyone else would like to chime it, go right ahead!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Leave it together. No new head gaskets or bolts on the 2.2. HG issues VERY rare. Reseal it and drop it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 I hear you and I wouldnt bother, but I seen the car it came out of. It was straight up kids car that was riced out and looked like his wanna be "race car" and wondering how hard he pushed the motor, thank fully it was an auto so he couldnt of redlined every gear until he decieded to shift. I'm still 50 / 50 on replacing the head gaskets. Anyone else want to give me their opinion?? Thanks again for everyones help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 26, 2010 Author Share Posted May 26, 2010 Oh yea, one other thing.. Can I use the 2.5 Motor mounts on the 2.2L or do I just use the 2.2 motor mounts? thanks, I did a search and coulnt find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) with Subaru gaskets i'd say do it. mdjc has reported on here multiple failures of aftermarket EJ head gaskets. you can search for his posts on that if you want to read more about it. subaru360 is another with lots of EJ head gasket experience. i'd heed the advice of folks that have done lots of EJ engine work, more than just anyone that's done a head job. but you saw the car and the guy and the engine so you've got some good info to work with too. i don't ever recall swapping them but it's so simple maybe I just don't remember. you know for sure the EJ25's will work so you can use those if you'd like. i'd use whichever look the driest (oil degrades rubber) and best condition. Edited May 26, 2010 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 well, you guys convinced me, I am going to leave the headgaskets alone. I dont have the money to spend on subaru head gaskets and just wanted peace of mind. But if the 2.2's are bullet proof like you guys say, then I should be good. I replace all other gaskets/ seals, but leave the head gaskets alone. thanks again for everyones help, motor is getting pulled and installed this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 given that cost is an issue then that sounds like a good call. the heads should be resurfaced so if you don't want to spring for subaru gaskets you probably won't spring for resurfacing either. sounds like it's worth the chance since you can do it if you have to later. the EJ22, unlike the DOHC EJ25, isn't hard to do the headgaskets on with the engine in the car. no way to predict the future, so you sort of have to go with what you want. you could type "head gasket" in the search tab and read through some threads if you still wanted some experiences and feedback from others too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 (edited) Ok fellas, I got the old EJ25 out and the EJ22 in. Fired it up and the car runs great. I resealed the whole engine(minus the head gaskets) new water pump, timing belt, and all the timing belt pullies. I had a few extra vaccum lines, so I "t ed" them into others. I let it idle ten-fifteen minutes, ran geat no check engine light. Started it probally 5-7 more times between changing the oil,trans fluid, etc. Now the check engine light is on. My code reader is at work, so I cant see what the check engine light is on for. Also, notice the AT oil temp light flashes about 10 times after it is started. How do I check the transmission codes, and how do I clear them? The car has no tags or insurance, and I just bought the car and never drove it, so i dont know if this stuff was on before or it it did this before. I even asked the guy I bought it from if the trans binded on turns, he said no, but could have been lieing. But, I took it down the driveway and turned around. When I turned around and had the wheel fully turned, it didnt shutter or shake, just acted like the emergency brake was on. I could let go of the brake with the wheel fully turned and the car wouldnt move unless I hit the gas.. Now, my tires are really low on air, especailly the left front, could that cause this?(i got dark outside,so I cant fill them and try it again until tommorow) All four tires are the same tread and size. I changed the trans fluid, even though it was pretty clean to begin with. BTW--This car has only 97,000 miles on it. So, what I am bascially asking, would low tire prussure cause this bind? Please dont tell me that the duty cycle c solenoid is bad!!!! Thanks again everyone for your help. I really do appriciate it. Also, if I put the car in park. let it idle foot off the brake, and then shut it off, the car moves forward until it rests in park. this is with the foot off the brake before i shut the car off. Also, what amp fuse do I put into the FWD holder. Is it good to drive it like that? or is it a temporary thing? what is the purpose for it? THANKS Edited May 30, 2010 by 98LegacyGT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 anybody?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted June 4, 2010 Author Share Posted June 4, 2010 nobody can answer my questions?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 well since no one answered my questions. I ordered the trans duty cycle soleniod and and going to put it in and hopefully it fixes my problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Sorry. A severely low tire could make this feeling for sure. I assume you remembered to plug in the AT connectors when you put the engine back in. Its amazing how many things work even though the electrical stuff isn't plugged in. Im not saying the trans would though. Fuse holder: Its just there to make a connection of a wire. It doesnt matter what fuse size it is at all I believe it just grounds a wire even. You can drive around a pretty long time like that and I have helped wire up switches to the dash for people that felt they got better gas mileage with the rear electronically switched off. I disagree that it helps but I didn't mind doing the switches. I personally think that if you have a 2500 pound car going down the road and you have and engine moving it that it doesnt matter if 2 or 4 wheels can power it down said road. If you were to remove all the 4wd pieces like driveshafts, differentials and rear subframe pieces to make the car lighter then maybe it would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Thanks for repling! Yes, I did check all the tire pressures and they are all the same pressures, brand and tread depth. I changed the fluid 3 times already and added lucas ATF treatment and then the last ATF Change, I added 4oz of GM Posi additive. Results are it did not change one bit. Its exactly the same, still binds on turns and will bring the car to a stop off i'm off the gas with the wheel fully turned. Car has only 97,000 miles on it, so I'm hoping the clutches in the transfer case are still good. But I dont know how long the previous owner drove it like that?! What scares me is when i park the car and put it in PaRK...and let off the brake, I get a little roll forward, then when I shut the car of, the car rolls more forward before it rest on the park mechinism. I tired the FWD fuse and nothing. No FWD light comes on the dash and the binding is still the same. So, I ordered the Duty C soliniod and waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Will post results after I install it. Still am open to any other ideas before I dive into the trans cause I really really dont want to replace this soilinoid... Also I tried the fiqure 8 in the parking lot, man oh man, it did not like that!! thanks Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Thanks for repling! Yes, I did check all the tire pressures and they are all the same pressures, brand and tread depth. I changed the fluid 3 times already and added lucas ATF treatment and then the last ATF Change, I added 4oz of GM Posi additive. Results are it did not change one bit. Its exactly the same, still binds on turns and will bring the car to a stop off i'm off the gas with the wheel fully turned. Car has only 97,000 miles on it, so I'm hoping the clutches in the transfer case are still good. But I dont know how long the previous owner drove it like that?! What scares me is when i park the car and put it in PaRK...and let off the brake, I get a little roll forward, then when I shut the car of, the car rolls more forward before it rest on the park mechinism. I tired the FWD fuse and nothing. No FWD light comes on the dash and the binding is still the same. So, I ordered the Duty C soliniod and waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Will post results after I install it. Still am open to any other ideas before I dive into the trans cause I really really dont want to replace this soilinoid... Also I tried the fiqure 8 in the parking lot, man oh man, it did not like that!! thanks Tim ouch! :| it's sounding like my Legacy Automatic! What type of automatic do you have? It's written on the transmission bell housing, and on the metal plate on the driver side udner the hood... It'd be like "TZ10" and continue on with numbers... curious curious . As for rolling forward/backwards I believe that's with the parking cowl inside the transmisison: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/car-in-park1.htm Heres how it works. and what goes in in the transmisison, that piece is worn down by time and stuff, and I think it is seperate from the rear of the transmission to which you're replacing, just use the e-brake to prevent future wear/tear on it. If it breaks :| ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LegacyGT Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 (edited) Ok, replaced the Duty C solinoid today. Was pretty easy(my brother let me use his lift) Only troublesome part was getting the tailhousing back on, the spring for the park pin kept coming off and I could not get the clutches in the tailhousing lined up so the case would fit flush, after some cursing at it, I got it. Took it for a test drive, the AT Temp light doesnt flash 16 times anymore, it doesnt bind at alll on any turns, even at full lock. And when i shut the car off after its put in park and let off the brake pedal, it does not roll forward anymore!!!!!!!!!!!!! So, this Duty C solinoid 100% fixed ALL my transmission problems. Hope my thread will help someone later down the road with the same troubles. Edited July 4, 2010 by 98LegacyGT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Ok, replaced the Duty C solinoid today. Was pretty easy(my brother let me use his lift) Only troublesome part was getting the tailhousing back on, the spring for the park pin kept coming off and I could not get the clutches in the tailhousing lined up so the case would fit flush, after some cursing at it, I got it. Took it for a test drive, the AT Temp light doesnt flash 16 times anymore, it doesnt bind at alll on any turns, even at full lock. And when i shut the car off after its put in park and let off the brake pedal, it does not roll forward anymore!!!!!!!!!!!!! So, this Duty C solinoid 100% fixed ALL my transmission problems. Hope my thread will help someone later down the road with the same troubles. WOW Guess this is what I'm going to be doing then. . Where did you ordered it? used from another seller? or is it/can it be a new part? if it fixes all that, hell I'll drop some $$$ for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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