tturnpaw

What he ^ said. Simple. Any phase 1 ('99 and earlier) EJ series is completely interchangeable. Use your existing throttle body, IAC, knock sensor (connectors can be different) Cam and crank sensors if you can, and either coil pack should work but im not positive you can use the 2.5 coil pack without a cel. Basically everything electronic, swap over. Retain your ignitor on the firewall. and done. End of story, dont go to nasioc. Oh and to turbo, you will need a turbo crossmember, or custom exhaust.

Its not a requirement to replace bolts. I havent either. But they do stretch and that fatigues metal. I have broken a head bolt on my last head gasket swap just releasing the torque off of it. It didnt take much either. But again im finiky. "Edit" Did some research all over, everyone reuses. I just didnt like the idea when i broke one just removing it. Cheap gaskets work fine in my experience. Most of the issues with those are the front crank seals walking out, but i havent had an issue. Remember to use an OEM thermostat because those almost always have an issue.

just switch over your throttle body and iac onto the 2.2 intake. your starter will work fine. maintenance is up to you not us. I would but others wouldnt. then again i dont use the stock garbage gaskets, i use cometics. As for reliability, the 2.5 is just as reliable as the 2.2 as long as you use arp studs and cometics. youre not supposed to reuse the 2.2 head bolts, but you can. again i use arp's so everyones opinion is different. arp studs are reusable btw.

and if you need an NA clutch its easier to find one for a 97-99 impreza 2.5 rs

I have one completely rebuilt with delta cams and turbo pistons. its set up for turbo. Has maybe 600 miles on the engine. willing to sell.

Code 24 displays now that the swap is complete. I believe this to be idle air control. I cleaned the old unit, then eventually replaced it. Ive checked voltage at the connector and the black wire (post "C") is always grounded, the center wire yellow/red (post "B") is constant 12+ volts, and the pink wire (post "A") has 12+ volts for a minute then gets switched to a ground. I believe that to be working correctly, so what could be the issue? Every once in a while it turns off until it idles for around ten+ seconds. Car seems to run perfectly besides that code. Another question. What does the white wire on connector F47 at the ecu pin 18 do?

just so you know renob, (lol) cts on phase 1 ej22s are very common to fail. in fact, i own a 92 turbo legacy and im on the legacy central forum, and most issues with ej22s and ej22t's are the ect sensor. I also had to replace mine in fact. I suggest you get an oem one, but anything works.

Blue/green should be your fuel pump Power wire. It's most likely an aqua color. Just did it today. If you can get a volt meter and hook up the power to the batt and test it. It should click when you turn it to the run position. It gets power for a few seconds then shuts off. That's your wire. I rewired my fuel pump ground to the relay so the ecu will control it and power is routed to the run position on the ignition. You could just route this wire to constant power and let the ecu control it but I wanted a fail safe in case something happened with a fuel leak etc. Ground the neutral safety. Put the clutch in yourself before starting. Some say the ej22 will have issues with the thrust bearing over time but either way it saves you the hassle of installing a switch on the pedal and wiring it.

Your trans ident. Pin should not be grounded unless you're automatic. The neutral should always be grounded doesn't have to be hooked up. Is your wiring correct for your idle switch? B56 pin 6. Brown wire. Should be grounded when the ignition is on.

Didn't realize thus thread was old. Sorry guys!!!! This is where I chime in. First you can use your 2.2 harness and ecu to power the 25. It's all a phase 1 so you're good to go there. To swap in an engine that's 00+ that's phase 2. Stay away from that unless you have lots o money to throw down on endless parts. Ok so to run the 2.5 on your 2.2 harness all you need is to swap out the iac and throttle body on the 25d intake manifold. Use the 25d injectors basically keep the engine complete. And done. No cel runs perfect. As for the 25d's head gasket issue, they fixed it in late 98, and 25d's are just as reliable. If you really wanted get arp head studs and you won't ever think about an issue until routine maintenance comes. The only thing about dohc is that you would be swapping to a interference engine. All Subaru dohc are interference. The valves can crash into each other. Given, they have a much better timing belt tensioner that they still use to this day on sti's so if you replace all the timing components at once, you will be good to go. As far as head flow they are subarus 3rd best flowing head, first being sti, second the rs-ra heads that are rare. I'm doing the swap on my legacy ej22t. My suggestion, do it. The 2.5 has better driveability, more grunt, and around 40 more ponies than a 22. Reliability is the same. Period. And if you want to turbo it later, it's all cake and there's lots of guys on the rs forums with 300whp stock engine.

Which terminal does the blue wire on the maf get hooked to? Can't run a search from my phone. Is it b58 pin 8? That's the only one I removed and I had to splice in the maf connector from the start of this swap.

It came out of a 90 legacy. It's being powered by a 92 legacy 2.2 harness

I got pretty carried away doing the swap on the GL. I removed the alt harness too early on and I don't have any diagrams to help me install it. It's running as of now but I need to tie in the alternator to the car. I know the alt post puts off just over a volt but the 3 terminal connector on it I would like to connect and to the charge light on the car. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks numbchux for the writeup and help!

Yes they can. I just spoke with them a minute ago about my EJ25D heads, and they also do work on wrx's and sti's.

Remember mine is an 86 ea82 so it's the same as an xt6. It's already in. I'm just speaking of the fittings the same by the pump and different onthe firewall. What do I do about the odd angles and such of the lower radiator hose besides get the radiator modified?

I'm just using an xt6 fuel pump so I won't need any adapters for that. You sure making the return restrictive like that is ok?

Ok so I'm coming up on the completion of my ej22 swap into an 86 wagon carbureted chassis. So I have a few questions that weren't completely explained in numbchux's writeup. This wagon is lifted 6" so the engine is dropped. First. I know I'm supposed to upgrade my fuel lines and pump to fuel injection grade but has anybody noticed that the return fuel nipple on the firewall is way too small for the ej22? And since the hard fuel lines run through the car, there's no sense in tearing out all the interior to replace them. So my solution is to run seperate fuel hoses from the pump under the car to the engine bay. Easier solution? Second, I have an automatic radiator of some sort so I'm not sure if it's thicker in the autos etc. But before the ej swap it was the carbureted 1.8 with the passenger side electric fan still attached. It won't fit now even without the ac pump so will one fit on the drivers side? Or do I need a slim fan or a pusher fan? One last question for now. I need a lower radiator hose that will work. Ive gotten an upper to fit perfectly with a 6" lift from Oreilly pn 20801. Any suggestions other than numbchux writeup? Thanks for your help! I'll probably have more for the wiring soon but most of the harness is good to go.

For the front control arms using xt6 bolts I ended up drilling the front holes to 31/64" (just under 1/2") and the backs to 1/2". That way the bolts would line up perfectly with no slop and enough clearance to clear everything during movement. As caboobaroo said, the inside bushing will actually lock on the inside of the crossmember so a little slop will be fine so long as the bolts are tight.

Thanks for the extra info caboobaru. The legacy tophats fit tight but not only does that put the center load right where it should be, it helps align the struts for the holes. They seem to fit pretty well to me though. For the control arms im using xt6 bolts. Ill probably weld the bolts facing down for the rear diff. I like the extra piece of mind. I havent addressed the carrier bearing yet, but thanks for the heads up, ill keep that in mind. Ill be in touch, i still get to figure out wiring might just throw a painless harness in lol

Ok so im starting this to futher clarify things on a L series 5 lug swap. Im starting with an 86 GL sedan fwd auto and converting to awd manual 5 lug. So everything in the rear bolts up fine (i swapped complete crossmembers) except if you have a 2wd the holes for the rear diff crossmember brackets need to be drilled. Its obvious where they are you just need to finish drilling them. The other issue is there isnt threads to bolt to, so im welding my brackets in. As for the front, to bolt up legacy struts and top hats, all you need to do is drill the holes larger (29/64" bit) (i used 15/32, little sloppier but im welding in braces) basically one to two steps larger than a 7/16" bit. Even the brake lines bolt up. As you can see, i drilled out the spot welds on the braces because when the strut is settled ill weld them in for a factory look and just as strong. Ok, as for ball joints ive measured and test fitted legacy ball joints vs XT6 joints in the XT6 front lower control arm. Ive found them to be the exact same. and one of the legacy 89-94 ball joint in xt6 arm.

As ive just checked over, the legacy 89-94 ball joints and xt6 4wd ball joints are the same diameter, and length. For some reason part numbers are different. Both 3 1/2" length overall. 1 1/2" diameter. I have not checked the seat size or mating surfaces to prove if they are exact. Xt6 ones cost a bunch more however. As far as axles go, the xt6 4wd auto shaft diameter is larger, ill post up length later. They are, however shorter then the legacys, according to Suberdave.

That sounds about right. My mechanical gauge wouldnt fit. The sender was too large both the threads (except the main one and the other on the side) and the housing itself wouldnt fit.

Whats your curb weight after the swap? Just curious. My finished goal is an ej22t w/ trans, xt6 rear crossmember setup, legacy fronts, etc. This 2wd sedan weighed in at 2240 and my legacy was at 3200. Goal is 2500 +/- lb awd ej22t GL. Im guessing the engine is about 50 lbs or more heavier, i added around 100 for the rear subframe, and the trans being another 50 lbs at most. Added together im shooting for 2500lb awd sedan. Full interior.

"damn kids and their drive-by window breakin!!!" - That would be me drunk at my friends house when i went outside and seen it.

got me myself a new hatch without a broken window! oh yeah and replaced the lifters and alternator.