just put the motor back together after doing headgaskets. tried to start, turns over fine. strong fuel smell coming from passenger side intake area, pulled the plugs, and they are wet

 

help?

Edited June 27, 201015 yr by Markus56

You forgot to hook something up, or you hooked something up wrong.

 

 

or maybe you put the head gaskets on backwards.

just put the motor back together after doing headgaskets. tried to start, turns over fine. strong fuel smell coming from passenger side intake area, pulled the plugs, and they are wet

 

help?

 

IIRC this is your first ej, but not your first subaru. do ea engines have confusing timing marks?

 

i ask only because the most common cause for a 'no start' on an ej engine after the timing belt has been off is using the wrong timing marks. and there is more than one thread where the original poster swears up and down he timed it right, spending days trying to figure it out, only to admit later he used the wrong marks. (never use the arrows.) review the links below in my signature if you have any doubts at all, the one with pics is good, page 2..

 

having said that, check for spark, if you have fuel, and spark and not start it almost has to be timing.

just put the motor back together after doing headgaskets. tried to start, turns over fine. strong fuel smell coming from passenger side intake area, pulled the plugs, and they are wet

 

help?

 

+1 on what johnceggleston said.

 

Just this week I did my timing belt ('95 2.2) but I followed the kit's recommendation on the marks... engine turned over but wouldn't start... flooded my engine and spark plugs were dripping wet.

 

I went back in and referred to the many articles here and on the net regarding the timing marks. Sure enough, i did it wrong.

After fixing it the engine began purring like never before

 

If this is the source of your woes, its a simple fix and you'll be rolling in no time... good luck! Keep us posted...

I timed it off the marks on the outside of the cam gears, the downside is, i have removed the timing belt covers, so i am eyeballing up and down, and using the marks that are on the belt itself. there is a possibility that the driver side cam is a tooth off. i will double check. I am a little disappointed with myself, because i timed an EJ25 perfectly the first time

Edited June 25, 201015 yr by Markus56

re-did timing and checked all connectors. no start. going to check all the fuses.

 

i dont have a compression tester or a spark tester, or someone to hold a screwdriver. When the motor turns over, it sounds like it always did, so i assume the compression is ok...

Edited June 26, 201015 yr by Markus56

fuses are fine, found a vacuum hose under the intake i forgot about. put it back in and took a good look under there for any other stuff. re-checked the connectors and traced the wiring harness, its all good.

 

I'm at a loss. dont know anyone in the area who has worked on these enough, i'll try to borrow a spark tester.

 

 

Is there something that wont let the motor start if it is unplugged?

Edited June 26, 201015 yr by Markus56

As has been mentioned: re-check the timing. Embarrassingly, I lined up mine wrong after checking it twice to make sure everything was properly aligned (this, after doing it properly only six months prior). The good thing is that I discovered you can easily access everything without removing the radiator. Anyway, the problem was the crankshaft gear. You have to ignore that very confusing arrow stamped on the front of the gear - the real mark is on the oddly-toothed plate on the back of the gear. I believe the woodruff key for the gear should be at six o'clock, though I'm not positive (this is discussed somewhere in the forum). Check out the photos in Sir Ceggleston's link.

 

Hope it's the timing, because it's so easy to fix. And if you're not like me, you'll learn your lesson. Cheers!

the timing is correct.

cam sensor, crank sensor, coil, fuel injectors, and maybe the map sensor will all keep it from starting. double check the connectors at trans bell housing, check to see if any pins are bent inside.

 

 

the cam being one tooth off will not keep it from starting. what timing mark on the crank sprocket did you use?? keyway at 6 o'clock is correct.

Edited June 26, 201015 yr by johnceggleston

cam sensor, crank sensor, coil, fuel injectors, and maybe the map sensor will all keep it from starting. double check the connectors at trans bell housing, check to see if any pins are bent inside.

 

 

the cam being one tooth off will not keep it from starting. what timing mark on the crank sprocket did you use?? keyway at 6 o'clock is correct.

 

 

 

i didnt't pull the motor so the bell housing connectors are untouched, i will check the map. a legacy has a map and a maf correct?

Edited June 26, 201015 yr by Markus56

they are plugged in. this is upsetting

check for fire.

I couldn't until today. I picked up a spark tester among other things, so i can finally properly diagnose this thing

I breifly have read through this. The cams can be on the mark but the crank off. There is two timing marks on the crank. one for TDC and one for timing. You need to check and see if you have an arrow or a slot on the crank alignment mark with the engine block. It should be slot and slot. not arrow and slot. Also slot and slot on the cams.....You did get the correct cam gears on the correct cams right ?

 

Just my 2 cents.

No spark!! As all the connecters and wires appear fine, can someone explain how the coil pack works? and how to diagnose the ecu run ignition system?

I breifly have read through this. The cams can be on the mark but the crank off. There is two timing marks on the crank. one for TDC and one for timing. You need to check and see if you have an arrow or a slot on the crank alignment mark with the engine block. It should be slot and slot. not arrow and slot. Also slot and slot on the cams.....You did get the correct cam gears on the correct cams right ?

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

I aligned the lines with lines on the crank, and same with the cams, i will double check that i put the gears on the correct side, but i am confidant that i did.

No spark!! As all the connecters and wires appear fine, can someone explain how the coil pack works? and how to diagnose the ecu run ignition system?

 

 

no spark means either the crank senor, the coil or the igniter are bad or disconnected. ( maybe the ECU but i would think that is a very very long shot, but never say never.) very odd for both sides of the coil to go bad at the same time, but...... who knows. if the timing / crank were off you would have spark but at the wrong time.

 

the igniter is on the fire wall on the driver side of the dogbone.

 

make sure all 3 are plugged in, the crank sensor may be hard to see with everything else i n place.

the igniter? and the dogbone? new phrases to me must be something i know under a different name.

 

oh! dogbone=pitchstop?

 

 

there is a module on top of it, is that what you mean? its plugged in.

 

I cleaned off the crank sensor with a rag to get the dirt off it and checked its connection, its good.

Edited June 28, 201015 yr by Markus56

how do you diagnose the crank sensor, coil, and ignitor?

how do you diagnose the crank sensor, coil, and ignitor?

See http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/FtIgnitionDiagOpS00.pdf

(There are errors in the info. In the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly.)

Thank you! This is excellent! Now that i know how this thing actually works, it will be easier to fix

Edited June 28, 201015 yr by Markus56

A-HA! Thank you Mugs for pointing out the possibility of switching the cam gears. It didn't occur to me why it mattered. I will get them switched as soon as possible.

 

Thank you all, I will post the results as soon as i can!

SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!

 

In half an hour! a new personal record!

 

 

the lifters sound like hell though, hopefully it'll go away

 

 

Edit: Now it sounds like a VW TDI... bad knock sensor?

Edited June 28, 201015 yr by Markus56

Is it misfiring? Hopefully the valves aren't damaged. Although the ej22 has HLA's so it is possible they just need to bleed themselves out and it will fix itself. Possibly add 1/4qt of ATF to the oil to clean out and possible debree in the oil. Once the noise clears do a oil change.

 

Actually firstly check to see if you have any oil lol.