Hello all,

 

Got my hands on a 96 Legacy 2.2 auto AWD.

 

Has a rear ruptured metal brake line, pass side above the rear frame mount (I think). I have looked under the car to locate the T so I can install a new line, but can not seem to locate it. Is it inside the car under a secret panel?

 

Thanks for the newbie questions!

the line is probably all rusted?

 

i had to deal with one like this but not on a subaru. i ended up finding a line up front to tap into, renting a tube cutter, tube bender, and hardware to make my own brake line. was kind of crazy since i had never done it but it wasn't nearly as hard as i thought it would be. cut out old line, then bend the new to match and install or splice it into place.

 

follow the lines back from the master cylinder or forward from the rear (sounds like you tried already?). figure out as much as you can as far as layout.

 

subaru has their opposedforces website which has lots of good diagrams and exploded views, might try to find brake line routings there.

 

think you could do that?

They go inside the car. Each line is separate coming from the ABS control module under the hood. I think the brake lines run down the passenger side. You pull up the sill plate then pull eh carpet back and there is a white plastic cover over the lines. They run back out through the floor somewhere right before the rear seat IIRC.

chances are you will not find an "exact fit" replacement so you will have to "make" your own...

 

Once you locate where the lines are running, and where the leak is the best thing to do is take out as much of the rusty line as possible - use a small tubing cutter to cut the line where it is in good condition.

 

take the bad section of line with you to the parts store to get a replacement that has the correct fittings and is of sufficient length - depending on how much you remove, you may need more than one piece. Also pick up pieces to create your splice(s) to connect back to the existing good line.

 

you will also need a flaring tool to flare the end of the existing line - either rented or purchased...and dont forget to pick up a bottle of brake fluid!

 

dont let the flaring tool scare you - it really isnt that hard, just a little bit fiddly - i recommend making a couple of practice flares before you actually do it on your car if you have never done it before.

 

back to your car - slide the correct fitting onto your existing line then create your flare.

Bend the replacement line to match as closely as possible the old line and install.

Bleed the system.

you are done.

dont let the flaring tool scare you - it really isnt that hard, just a little bit fiddly - i recommend making a couple of practice flares before you actually do it on your car if you have never done it before.

indeed the flaring process is a bit goofy and not immediately comfortable. practice, i wish i would have!

 

if i had to do this on my car i'm fairly certain i would consider having someone make a long length of stainless cable with the proper fittings on each end so I can install it however I want and make some brackets or use 2 dozen zip ties to hold it where i want it.

 

that's what i wanted to do when i was helping a friend but i was in new orleans and had no clue where things were, etc so i just went with what the local yocal parts stores had on hand and made my own pipe.

Flaring tools are varied and require some practice on the type tool used. The "double flare" required uses a certain die and inner support.

Just went thrugh this with my OBW. The "T" is on the inside of the frame rail just in front of the tire on the passenger side. We were replacing the gas tank at the same time so it made replacing the lines real easy, not that the tank job was fun time at all. We used copper coated steel line that is not supposed to rot from the liquid salt they use here.

I was doing this Isuzu 2 1/2 ton truck and all the everything was rotted out underneath. The fittings on the lines were so bad i could only make a few flares. I had to find a source and it did exist but it didn't excactly say Subaru.

The parts stores have a rack of these things in sizes from about 1 1/2' in 6" increments. There are abaout 4 metric Asian types. You need take an old fitting and measure the threads against and find that type.

The reason is that everybody calling and asking a counter person to go thru all this leaves the whole collection messed up. It is best to have the trust to go back there and look carefully( and maybe even put some back where they belong).

If you are working on a rusty car, I recommend getting creative with the routing rather than try to remove more rusty parts and breaking more stuff trying to follow the factory routing.

I had this happen too and had to replace the rear line sections on '96 Legacy. They were completely rotted. I lifted the rear seat and cut the lines under the seat right where they go through the floor. Then I spliced in there and ran new brake line back to the wheels. I just routed the line wherever I could and where I could secure it. I used cunifer line; it was very easy to work with, though maybe a bit controversial (some people don't like it). The Subaru brake fittings are double flare, M10x1.0. KD Tools has a nice double flare tool; I got it from Grainger.

 

Spliced in here under the rear seat

Edited August 8, 201015 yr by porcupine73

I just purchased a 98 Legacy 2.5GT and the only issue with the car is there is a brake system leak and the leak is in this picture. Does anybody have any idea how to fix this leak or has anybody done a fix before and can post pictures?

 

Thanks,