Whaddya think it's worth?

[bratgrl]

I am looking at a 1988 GL 4X4 Hatchback with 170K. The good: It has a halfway decent "new" paint job. No body damage and no major rust issues that I could see. Motor runs really well. The bad: The inside is borderline disgusting. I'm not just talking dirty, but everything felt "sticky" , usual sun damage on the top of the back seat. Fronts are not damaged, just need cleaned. The left front CV is clicking pretty good, and the clutch needs adjusting, more likely needs replaced. You have to almost push it through the firewall to get it in gear and when you let it out, it engages about an inch off the floor. Reverse was a nightmare grind fest. The kid reached through the passenger door and just jammed, and I mean JAMMED it into reverse so I could get out of the driveway to test drive it. They are asking $800. What would be a fair price to offer without offending them?

[2manetoys]

I am looking at a 1988 GL 4X4 Hatchback with 170K. The good: It has a halfway decent "new" paint job. No body damage and no major rust issues that I could see. Motor runs really well. The bad: The inside is borderline disgusting. I'm not just talking dirty, but everything felt "sticky" , usual sun damage on the top of the back seat. Fronts are not damaged, just need cleaned. The left front CV is clicking pretty good, and the clutch needs adjusting, more likely needs replaced. You have to almost push it through the firewall to get it in gear and when you let it out, it engages about an inch off the floor. Reverse was a nightmare grind fest. The kid reached through the passenger door and just jammed, and I mean JAMMED it into reverse so I could get out of the driveway to test drive it. They are asking $800. What would be a fair price to offer without offending them?

 

I wouldn't worry about offending them. It's worth what you're willing to pay. Personally, with all the cleanup, replacing the CVJ and clutch, I'd offer $500 and stop at $600. But it depends entirely on what you are willing to pay and what you want it for.

[GeneralDisorder]

Probably needs a new clutch cable.

 

That's considered "high mileage" for any normal car. It's not bad for the EA81 but figure the 4 speed trans might have 50k left in it - or less if it's been abused by that kid grinding it, etc . They weren't strong transmissions in the first place and 250k was a good run for one.

 

I bought mine for $250 but it's higher mileage, had some minor body damage, and had a broken clutch cable so it couldn't be driven.

 

Frankly $800 is a good deal for a 4WD hatch with a nice body in running/driving condition. Interior will really freshen up with just new carpet and seats and a good cleaning - used Legacy seats and carpet remnants are cheap......

 

The hatch is the most desireable EA81 body next to the Brat and as such they can command a decent price to the right buyer. Low mileage and excelent condition examples have brought $2500 in recent years while people are not paying even $1000 for wagons.

 

Offer $500 and be prepared to pay $650 to $750 if they know what they have. Maybe you'll get lucky and they don't know what they have and are hungry. Wouldn't be the first time. At any rate - even at $800 it's worth it to own a hatch

 

I owned a Brat first because they "look neat". I drive a Hatch daily because they "drive neat" and I hate that I can't lean the seats back in my Brat. It just sits. I haven't even started it in a couple years.

 

GD

Edited July 18, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[bratgrl]

Thanks guys! That is exactly what I was thinking would be fair. I had a hatchback once and loved it. Been kicking myself ever since for getting rid of it, I don't know what I will do with it, but I want it anyway. It will only be my third Subie that I presently own...that's not even close to being too many.

GD ( or anyone else that will help) while I have you " on the line" let me ask you a quick question. I am having issues with my headlight fuse in my 80 Brat. It keeps getting REALLY hot and frying the fuse. I would like to bypass the fuse box all together. Soooo, my question is what gauge wire and amperage on an inline fuse, and from where to where would I run it. Caboobaroo said that he thought he ran one from the headlight switch to the battery. But he could not remember for sure. What say you?

Bobby.

Edited July 18, 2010 by bratgrl
Spelling and grammar...

[GeneralDisorder]

Well - hot wireing and blown fuses means there is a higher than normal draw on the circuit or that there is damage in the circuit causing resistance and thus the headlights are drawing too many amps for the damaged circuit to carry.

 

So either there is a short - which from the way you describe it there is not as that would generally cause the fuse to immediately blow... or you have poor connections somewhere in the circuit - anywhere in the circuit that is getting "hot" such as the connections to the fuse panel or the wireing in that area is immediately suspect.

 

Bypassing fuse blocks even if you plan to use an inline fuse to do so is not usually the proper way to repair such a problem. Typically replacing the bad wireing and connectors is not that hard with some flux and solder and careful repair.

 

Unfortunately I can't help much with specifics as my knowledge abrupty ceases prior to the EA81 body switch in 1980. While your Brat is a 1979 by design and thus wireing as well. I haven't worked on many of that vintage and I've only owned one which was dismantled as a parts car.

 

GD

[bratgrl]

Usefull info about headlight issue in this link..

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113815