The car is a '94 Loyale.

 

Up until the time I put my new tires and wheels on my car, it has had no alignment or shaking issues. Even when my car had the 2" lift with stock wheels/tires it drove straight, and didn't shake at any speeds.

 

But when I put my 27's and did my 6-lug conversion, it now shakes pretty badly after 40mph. My tires were mounted and balanced at Les Schwab at the same time, and all the beads look good, they hold air, so I'm not really sure what it is.

 

Could it be misbalanced tires? I didn't think it was my suspension, because before the big tires, everything was fine (I really don't think making my hubs 6 lug affected this) My car still steers straight and everything. Just gets terrible shakes.

check and make sure lugs are tight. If a rim is bent , the tire store should have told you. I think somebody put the weights on in the wrong spot. Even 28" swampers did not shake my soob.

check to make sure all of your body and lift bolts are tight, with emphasis on the control arm bolts.

The car is a '94 Loyale.

 

Up until the time I put my new tires and wheels on my car, it has had no alignment or shaking issues. Even when my car had the 2" lift with stock wheels/tires it drove straight, and didn't shake at any speeds.

 

But when I put my 27's and did my 6-lug conversion, it now shakes pretty badly after 40mph. My tires were mounted and balanced at Les Schwab at the same time, and all the beads look good, they hold air, so I'm not really sure what it is.

 

Could it be misbalanced tires? I didn't think it was my suspension, because before the big tires, everything was fine (I really don't think making my hubs 6 lug affected this) My car still steers straight and everything. Just gets terrible shakes.

 

If it worked fine before, it's either the wheels, tires, or your 6-lug conversion.

Wheels and tires are easy to check, take them to a tire shop and have them checked. If your lugs are loose it would shake, as mentioned. And also check your axle bolts. If you didn't bolt the hub back on tight enough, or forgot the cotter pin and the nut comes loose. It would be shaking (and destroying your bearings...)

If it worked fine before, it's either the wheels, tires, or your 6-lug conversion.

Wheels and tires are easy to check, take them to a tire shop and have them checked. If your lugs are loose it would shake, as mentioned. And also check your axle bolts. If you didn't bolt the hub back on tight enough, or forgot the cotter pin and the nut comes loose. It would be shaking (and destroying your bearings...)

 

I'm not sure if it would be my 6 lug, although a couple of my studs may be crooked, the wheel is still bolting to the hub flat, centered, and tight.

 

I changed around my tires to see if they were balanced differently, but same issue. All my suspension is tightened properly, and nothing is loose.

 

So maybe I'll have my tires checked.

I'm interested to see what you find out, since I've dealt with the same thing for a long time. Did you remove material from the back of the hubs for the 6-lug swap? The weights they use for wheels are pretty small. I wouldn't be surprised if I ground off too much on one spot.

 

I've been thinking about taking my 6-lug hubs to my tire guy to see if he could do some sort of balancing on them.

 

Jacob

Has anyone been able to correct this issue? Especially with strut top lift blocks?

 

I haven't had my tires checked yet, but over the many years and sets of tires I've had mounted at Les Schwab, they have never messed up one. So I'm a bit skeptical on a misbalance

When I did the 6 lug conversion to my lifted wagon I turned down the backs of the hubs on my lathe so the wheel studs would set straight in the hub but I also used a mill and indexing head to get the pattern right drilling your hubs by hand or with a drill press is a little risky its very easy to get the wholes off and the studs not seated correctly If I WAS GOING TO DO IT THAT WAY I WOULD USE A DRIFT CENTER PUNCH THAT FITS THE WHOLE IN THE WHEEL TIGHTLY IF YOUR OFF BY .010-.015 IT WILL OR CAN CAUSE PROBLEMS AND AFTER THE HOLES ARE DRILLED I WOULD BOLT THE HUB UPSIDE DOWN TO A LEVELED WORK BENCH AND CAREFULLY GRIND OR FILE LEVEL FLAT SPOTS ON THE HUD WHERE THE STUDS WOULD REST TO MAKE SURE THEY GO IN STRAIGHT

 

 

Some time the bigger AT or MUD tires will never balance out it takes too much weight the bigger the tire the harder it is to balance aka 33-12.50s or 35-14.50s

 

Most lifted trucks or jeeps have steering stabilizers installed on them because of this it just amounts to a shock connected to the tie rods

Edited August 23, 201015 yr by 84gl

Take your wheels off and mark the 2 original studs with something on the end. Then put your wheels back on and tourqe those original 2. Then put the other 4 nuts on and tourqe them. See if this helps you any.

I'll have to give that a shot. Some of drivers side front studs are a little crooked. But I think that if a wheel is bolted on center, it's on center, regardless of a few crooked studs, because the gap around my hub (the little lip around the castle nut/axle part) appears to be completely even all around

I'm thinking it may be my front hub(s). I've e-mailed Scott, because I'm sure he can do them with more accuracy than I did. I will be getting my car aligned, wheels rebalanced, and maybe I will change out my bum axle.

 

So I will be able to tell if they are the actual problem.

I had the same problem you are having. I went and had my tires rebalanced the other day and told them how to bolt them on. They did 3 the right way and the pass. front just willy nilly. It shook about 40-45 mph. I retourqed them and its all good not. Tested to 85 mph and no shaking. I would try this before throwin out money that is not needed.

I had the same problem you are having. I went and had my tires rebalanced the other day and told them how to bolt them on. They did 3 the right way and the pass. front just willy nilly. It shook about 40-45 mph. I retourqed them and its all good not. Tested to 85 mph and no shaking. I would try this before throwin out money that is not needed.

 

Are you saying that your problem is that your tires were misbalanced, or that your wheels were not torqued correctly?

So I got my tires rebalanced, and it still shakes

My tires were always balanced correctly. If the 4 studs that were put in the backing plate were tightened first it would shake. If I tightened the 2 original studs first (to 80 ft lbs.) then tighten the other 4, it is fine, no shaking.

you could have a warped rotor and a caliper stickn. or a broken belt in one of your tires. just a thought.