Ok, so first of all what is the CHG light? Is it a Check Gauges light? Cause all the time I have to sit there and restart my brat because that light is the only light that will turn on and none of my gauges will work. So i keep restarting the car, by starting i mean only to the on position on the ignition switch, until the gauges work again. Any ideas on what could be causing it? I checked all the wiring and everything looked fine nothing loose and nothing frayed or broken.

That is the "Charging System" light.

 

IF it is lighting while the engine is running, you have a problem with the charging system. Usually it means the Alternator is going out......but sometimes can be a bad battery, bad connection, or both.

 

Definately get is checked out. Have the Alt and the Battery tested.

The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on.

 

It should be off while running.

 

Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch.

 

GD

The charge indicator lamp should be on anytime the engine is not running as the voltage difference between the battery and the alternator is 12v - that causes the charge indicator to be on.

 

It should be off while running.

 

Intermittant gauges could be the ignition switch - I have seen that. Usually none of the lighting systems will work either when that happens. Jiggleing the switch or turning on/off will often keep it at bay for a while but eventually you will need a new switch.

 

GD

 

Well I think you may be right. A couple questions though. If I hit the top of the dash sometimes it makes it come back on. And secondly will the ignition switch start the engine even if it has become bad?

 

Thanks

Ryan

Well since the battery and alternator are good I'm gunna go with either ignition switch or bad wiring to the dash.

 

 

Anyone know how to change/check the ignition switch? It looks like all the wiring to the switch is soldered into the switch.

The switch is not serviceable - you replace it with a new one.

 

GD

I know it's not serviceable, but is there anyway to check it. Like find out if it's broken. And then lastly do you have to resolder the switch when you get a new one, or does it come with the wiring to the connector?

You can check for continuity but if it's in intermittant problem..... and continuity doesn't indicate amp carrying capacity.

 

Yes they come with the wireing. No soldering is involved.

 

GD

The ignition switch just makes simple connections to certain wires depending on the switch position. Check the voltage of the wires for all the positions.

 

I doubt you have a problem with the ignition switch since there would be numerious other problems if it was not working correctly. Your best bet for a bad connection is on the back side of the alternator.

I doubt you have a problem with the ignition switch since there would be numerious other problems if it was not working correctly.

 

I was going off him saying that turning it off and back on numerous times will cure it..... I had a similar issue with my hatch where the ignition switch would hit a certain posistion that would allow the engine to run but not power the accesories - didn't have guages, wipers, radio, etc..... messing with the switch or turning it off and back on a couple times would usually help. I replaced the switch and haven't seen that behavior since.

 

I've noticed with older EA's that have a ton of miles (240k+ in my case), the ignition switch usually wants replaced as well as new code-cut keys made and the lock serviced. Really helps with a lot of strange issues and I've seen too many burnt ignition switch harnesses where wires shorted out, etc. I don't mess around with them anymore for the $32 price of a new one.

 

But as you say - it might be something else. Definitely check it with a MM before you replace it. I've also seen corrosion on the cluster PCB cause issues like this - since the individual gauges are bolted to the board and that mechanical connection can become a problem.

 

GD