I picked up a motor and it came with a bunch of tensioners/pulleys and a timing belt. I believe all of these are new cept a couple.

 

Not knowing a whole heck of a lot about these except I wanted to attempt to use'em how should I verify them being correct for my 04 forester motor? or do you think this isn't worth the risk? my engine has around 50k on it.

 

If I do a timing belt change while the motor is out I could switch the water pump out to one that does not have this coolent port.

 

It also has a oil cooler/heat exhanger (non turbo) its going into a car without this setup would it be wise to plug these coolent ports? (ie one off the water pump and one off the head above the oil filter)

 

The oil cooler system is self-contained - there's no reason *not* to use it if all the parts are there. Basically it's just the special water pump, the oil cooler "sandwitch" that goes above the filter, a few hard lines and some hoses. It's a nice feature so you should save it if you can.

 

As far as the timing belt stuff - all the SOHC belts are the same (both engines are SOHC right?) and all the EJ's use the same three idlers (two smooth and one cogged). The last idler is the belt tensioner and unless the parts you have are for a '97 or older then it should all be pretty much the same. Even the DOHC engines used the same idlers and tensioners. The only difference is the length of the belt.

 

GD

I want to keep hoses to a min, and to me its just one more thing to have leak or bust and something to snag off road.

and I would need to make that barb angle at a 45deg angle, so I would have to fiddle with it anytime I swapped water pumps.

 

Both are SOHC

The cooler's dramatically reduce oil temps and that prolongs oil life. It's worth it (especially on the turbo's) and the whole system doesn't stick down below the exhaust. But it's up to you - just install a "normal" water pump and remove the cooler. Sell it on the forum if you don't want it because other's around here will.

 

Being that both engines are SOHC, all the stuff should work unless the tensioner parts are for a pre-'97. Otherwise they are pretty much all the same. Many people prefer the '97 and older tensioner style (they seem to be quite a bit more reliable) and you can swap the newer engines over to the older style tensioner just by swapping the tensioner bracket.

 

GD

Edited September 20, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

Keeping the cooler would be "cool" If I can figure out a reliable method to changing the straight barb to a 45.

 

 

thanks for the info on the belts, it will save me some $$$ does a belt change at 50k sound too paranoid?

Well - it's a 105k belt so that's a bit paranoid yeah. But if you feel like doing it.... it's not hard and it's a good learning experience. Plus it gives you a chance to check cam seals, etc.

 

I do them all the time and sometimes I have to do them before they are due because I've bought a car with an unknown history so I can't be "for sure" on when they were done. I just pulled one apart with 17k on the belt (didn't know for sure though till I pulled it apart) and I feel better about selling it knowing EXACTLY when the belt will need replaced again.

 

Just depends on what you want and what kind of peace of mind you are looking for. Crashing an '04 Forester engine's belt means bent/broken valves. Honestly the EJ belts are REALLY large and strong though and they almost never break even when run well past the 105k they are designed for. You just don't see broken EJ timing belts till they are 150% or farther past the change interval.

 

GD

I'm thinking I might run this for another 20k, I know it has less then 50k though. I pulled the covers and checked the belt and its not frayed or cracked...So I think the risk isn't much if any.

 

So think it would be kosher pulling this barbed fitting any tapping it so I can thread in a 45 elbow? or too risky? i've done worse thats for sure

So think it would be kosher pulling this barbed fitting any tapping it so I can thread in a 45 elbow? or too risky? i've done worse thats for sure

 

I would do it. Doesn't sound very risky to me if it'd done properly.

 

GD

since it sounds like the engine is out, i'd pull the belt off to at least inspect the pullies and make sure they're not lousy from sitting or something.

 

i'd run it another 25k miles before swapping parts given how new the engine is too. protect those new tensioner surfaces so they don't get surface rust.

 

sell me the oil cooler plumbing. i need some for the same reason you mentioned - bent and mangled all that tubing under there off road so i want to replace it.

Good info, I think i'll try and source an aluminum elbow so I can keep expansion rates close to the same, i'll epoxy the pig in place anyway it should be good for as long as I run the timing belt.

 

As for the cooling plumbing all mine is ho-made, all this will now staytucked between the oil pan and my motor mounts so the odds of it being hit are going to be pretty low.

Well, I picked up an elbow and it helps clear the angle but I have bad feelings about it. So i'm going to pull all this out and just put a normal pump in.

 

I can post this stuff up forsale for another suby fan if someone wants it.

 

 

Question(s)

 

If I head to my local FLAPS and pickup say a duralast or other would I be shooting myself in the foot? they are about $60-70 bucks are these crap or should I get one at a dealer? (I should bring lube right? )

 

And now that this cooler is taken off my oil filter, I'll need a shorter oil lug where can I get one of these?

 

 

And on the bottom of the head I had a threaded barb that connected to the side of this heat exchanger, Its now removed and I can just pickup a threaded freeze plug right?

 

man it looks like I need to find a hashed out engine to rob....junkyard here are scarce in the suby parts biz. :-\

I would try to get a Paraut water pump (OEM manufacturer). Actually the dealerships are not that expensive on these.

 

I would remove the oil cooler and see if you even need the fitting. IIRC they screw to the oil filter threads on the block..... but I could be mistaken about that.

 

GD

I removed the adapter and I deff need the union for the filter to stay on.

 

It looks like suby has a part number for this union so hopfully they have it.