I've been dealing with this for a year and I hope I can finally get to the bottom of this.

 

I have no front parking lights regardless if the parking switch is turned on or the headlights are turned on..

 

Now before you go saying check the bulbs (both brand new) or the relay (works fine) I'm lost here.. the turn signals work fine.. and my parking lights in the rear work fine FYI.

 

I tested the bulbs in the front with the meter and get 0v from it.. I'm having a little hard time tracing where the wire goes after it enters in the car but it seems to go to this snap in plug which does not seem like I got a picture of.

 

 

GB-2 ground

 

 

I do know that on the drivers side red and black is for the parking light where the green/white wire and black is for the turn signal.

 

Passenger side is white/red for the turn signal with red and black for the parking light.

 

The thing that sucks is for everyone else this has happened to it's the tail lights for them not the front.

 

 

 

Any tips?

The first place I'd check for power is pin #1 of connector F40, which plugs into the interior fuse box, near the tail light relay. With the plug connected, you'll be looking at it's back end, so it will appear to be "flipped" from what the attachment shows.

 

If you turn on the parking lights, by back-probing you should find 12 volts at pin #1 (red wire) with respect to ground. If so, but there's nothing at the lamp sockets, then there's probably a break in the wiring, possibly behind the inner fender cover. Got mice?

Is there a fuse for the parking lights? If so have you checked it?

Is there a fuse for the parking lights? If so have you checked it?

 

already been checked

The first place I'd check for power is pin #1 of connector F40, which plugs into the interior fuse box, near the tail light relay. With the plug connected, you'll be looking at it's back end, so it will appear to be "flipped" from what the attachment shows.

 

If you turn on the parking lights, by back-probing you should find 12 volts at pin #1 (red wire) with respect to ground. If so, but there's nothing at the lamp sockets, then there's probably a break in the wiring, possibly behind the inner fender cover. Got mice?

 

I don't know I will check I'm sure it would be a pain to try and find the break in the wire?

 

the car came from Brooklyn, NY so I don't know how many mice tried to eat what.

btw that F40 connection picture is that from the FSM? I can't seem to locate it.. I see it in the grounds wiring but not the schematic.

I don't know I will check I'm sure it would be a pain to try and find the break in the wire? [...]

Who ever said working on cars wasn't painful at times?

 

First check for 12 v at the fuse panel connector, as above. If it's not there, you won't have look past the panel (since the rears are working).

 

However, assuming there's 12 v at F40 pin #1, you could:

1) Untape the harness where the left (driver) side turn/marker lamp wiring breaks out from it, and keep going until you find where the red wire joins the one coming from the fuse panel and the one that continues to the right side.

2) If 12 v isn't there, visually inspect the harness from that point back to where it goes through the large grommet to the interior. If you don't see any damage, and don't want to find the break, you could just run a single wire from the red wire junction described in 1) to the red wire as it comes out of F40. I'd find the break rather than bypass it that way, but it's an alternative. Be sure to use wire of gauge equal to the factory wire.

btw that F40 connection picture is that from the FSM? I can't seem to locate it.. I see it in the grounds wiring but not the schematic.

Look at the "POWER SUPPLY ROUTING".

Who ever said working on cars wasn't painful at times?

 

First check for 12 v at the fuse panel connector, as above. If it's not there, you won't have look past the panel (since the rears are working).

 

However, assuming there's 12 v at F40 pin #1, you could:

1) Untape the harness where the left (driver) side turn/marker lamp wiring breaks out from it, and keep going until you find where the red wire joins the one coming from the fuse panel and the one that continues to the right side.

2) If 12 v isn't there, visually inspect the harness from that point back to where it goes through the large grommet to the interior. If you don't see any damage, and don't want to find the break, you could just run a single wire from the red wire junction described in 1) to the red wire as it comes out of F40. I'd find the break rather than bypass it that way, but it's an alternative. Be sure to use wire of gauge equal to the factory wire.

 

 

question about the fuse panel I think it's fuse number 5 but I think that fuse powers both the from and rear tail lights?

 

I don't want to bypass so this is why I'm trying to do it the hard way.

 

I wished the panel was labeled for the snap in connections one under the tail light relay must be it.

question about the fuse panel I think it's fuse number 5 but I think that fuse powers both the from and rear tail lights?

Yes, it's fuse #5, and yes, it powers both front and rear, so the fuse obviously isn't the culprit.

 

 

I don't want to bypass so this is why I'm trying to do it the hard way.

Good.

 

 

I wished the panel was labeled for the snap in connections one under the tail light relay must be it.

F40 isn't directly under the tail light relay -- it's below it, but as you're facing the panel, slightly more to your right. Look for the red wire in #1 position.

Ok I'm looking at the FSM still right now I don't see the power supply routing section however.

I'm curious, have you tried the "virgin switch" on the top of the steering column to see if they work with it switched on?

I'm curious, have you tried the "virgin switch" on the top of the steering column to see if they work with it switched on?

 

same effect as the headlight switch only the rear tail lights come on

Ok I'm looking at the FSM still right now I don't see the power supply routing section however.

If you're looking at a PDF, what's the file? (Is it MSA5TCD95L5928.pdf ?)

 

F40 location on fuse panel (turned sideways, as in manual):

I found it.. At the car now and i get 12 from the pin at the fuse panel.

I found it.. At the car now and i get 12 from the pin at the fuse panel.

So, now the "fun" begins. If you haven't already done so, pull the fender liner, and look things over. Fix any obvious damage. Untaping the harness back to the red wire junction I mentioned previously allows you to test things there, and sometimes the fault is right at that spot.

So, now the "fun" begins. If you haven't already done so, pull the fender liner, and look things over. Fix any obvious damage. Untaping the harness back to the red wire junction I mentioned previously allows you to test things there, and sometimes the fault is right at that spot.

 

 

the Left and right red wires from the parking lights meet up to run on a single wire right? That's not going to be any fun :-/ And just my luck it's raining now with a possible T-storm later...

 

To keep me busy I'm swapping out the door lock timer. I had an issue with the doors unlocking on their own.. long story short as soon as I started moving the door lock timer around it would work but some relay inside sounded crazy.

 

But that's for another tread.

the Left and right red wires from the parking lights meet up to run on a single wire right? [...]

Yes, that's what I'm referring to.

 

 

Sorry, bandwidth restricted here, so text or still photos only for me.

Yes, that's what I'm referring to.

 

 

 

Sorry, bandwidth restricted here, so text or still photos only for me.

 

the video was just me showing the meter and that with the switch off on pin 1 of F40 I would get 0 V and with it on I got 12 V.

 

This person who last did the car did a hack job on a alarm system... i have since removed that but some of it still remains.. just hard to know what's factory and what's not..

the video was just me showing the meter and that with the switch off on pin 1 of F40 I would get 0 V and with it on I got 12 V.

Okay.

 

 

 

This person who last did the car did a hack job on a alarm system... i have since removed that but some of it still remains.. just hard to know what's factory and what's not..

That's an even better reason to visually inspect the wiring before further troubleshooting. That red wire doesn't go very far -- from F40 pin #1 to the point where it splits to left and right marker lights is only a few feet, and pulling the inner fender liner isn't very hard (assuming the weather cooperates ).

Okay.

 

 

 

 

That's an even better reason to visually inspect the wiring before further troubleshooting. That red wire doesn't go very far -- from F40 pin #1 to the point where it splits to left and right marker lights is only a few feet, and pulling the inner fender liner isn't very hard (assuming the weather cooperates ).

 

 

haha it's pouring rain right now so just finishing up here with the door lock timer in the car if I get a break I will check.

 

Is this like rare to happen?

Is this like rare to happen?

It's not common, but with the possibility of both four- and two-legged critters having gotten into things, who knows. Nevertheless, this shouldn't be hard to fix.

Well got a break in the weather so i will check

heh this guy swears I was not probing the F40 connector. he was going by this

 

 

I think the FSM spans across a few models, no?