snowscooby

Hi all, I am working on a EJ25 DOHC full rebuild project and was wondering if someone could direct me to an appropriate thread or shed some light on my situation. Here is the problem: Part of the project involved getting a cam regrind from Delta cams. This went fine, but the engine uses hydraulic lifters not the manual rocker arm assembly. So my question is do the hydraulic lifters need some sort of shim adjustment before we reinstall the cams, or will they self adjust because they are hydraulic? I know the hydraulic lifters are self adjusting, but I don't know if they are to the extent of the regrind. The cam profile is one where they weld extra material on and then grind it down so the cam lobe is slightly larger than before. Thanks!

02 Impreza OBS that is having some interesting intermittent issues. Automatic with about 75,000 miles Symptoms Under acceleration the car lacks power and acts like its going to die. Shifts erratically. When you accelerate a little it will drop a gear and nearly redline, and sometimes it won't down shift when it should and bog down. Seems to make a slight popping sound, sort of like popcorn. It has an intermittent CEL, I haven't been able to pull a code from it because it doesn't usually come on and its my friends car. I was thinking some sort of faulty sensor? Any ideas?

Just did a timing belt job on an 01 RS. The kit was the way to go although we ran into problems with the fitment on the tensioner pulley. The pulley included did not fit, so we ended up getting a new tensioner. Just something that you may run into.

I had some problems with lack of power in my ej22 before, cleaning the IAC seemed to help with response. Its something you can do without replacing sensors. What year ej22? I have a service manual for imprezas 97-2001 and it has some stuff on testing sensors.

Both the input shaft and intermediate shaft are now completely disassembled. Starting to go through and measure bearings, synchros, and inspecting all of the other parts.

Ran into problems on Monday with the input shaft teardown. Apparently there is a specific tool to pull the 5th gear off, which we didn't have and the dealer broke all of theirs. The dealer said to pull on the bearing flange below 5th gear. This resulted in shattering pieces off the flange. We then tried a bearing separator pressing on the outer race of the bearing. This resulted in fracturing the entire outer race. We did however move the bearing enough to create enough room to slip a separator under the 5th gear. We were able to remove it and the woodruff key locking it in place without any other problems. If you are trying this yourself and want to save your bearing/ be a lot safer you should pursue a tool to remove the 5th gear separately.

Going to start in on tearing apart the input shaft and pressing off all of the gears tomorrow, this should be pretty interesting. Going to inspect bearings, count teeth, and calculate gear ratios. I have pictures of all of the assemblies waiting to get uploaded to my computer.

I like your technique! Going to get more done on it tomorrow during class, hopefully I'll have an update and maybe some pictures later tomorrow.

Pulled the center diff out of the transaxle, will probably break that down tomorrow and inspect all of the teeth ect. So far everything looks good. A good trick (if you would call it a trick) we found for getting the center diff casing off was to take off the top plate and try and tap it off from the inside rather than trying to go from the outside you damage the aluminum edge to easily where the different housings come together. And there probably is some truth the to brat seats and the founder ledgend. There were a couple big subaru guys who were professors in the VRI (I think there still is one). Some of the stuff they have going on in there is pretty amazing.

My car has been having backlash issues as well, and since I am rebuilding my transaxle in the next couple weeks I will check out the front diff and see if there is anything that could be causing it.

Is there a fuse for the parking lights? If so have you checked it?

There may be nothing wrong with it, but when it was pulled it was making some humming noises, it jingles in 4th gear, and some of the gears seem like they could shift easier. Since I got to wwu and am in their vehicle design program I am able to access the entire vehicle lab. One of the projects for my class is to do a transmission teardown and rebuild, so instead of using one of theirs I am going to use mine and hopefully benefit from it. Knock on wood nothing is wrong in the transaxle, but if it is, then I will be able to correct it. Starting teardown tomorrow. Hopefully will get through the casings.

I am about to delve into a transmission rebuild project for my 97 impreza's 5MT. I am not sure what to expect when I get inside there, but was curious on where to get replacement parts if I need new synchros or really anything for that matter (besides the stealership). I will be rebuilding the entire drivetrain for a class (front and rear diffs, transmission) and will try and keep the thread updated if information from time to time.

welcome aboard!

I have had decent luck with our local NAPA auto parts store. Anything that is new should hold up better than a reman cv. If you shop around a bit you may find them as low as 50$.

How does one check that (with a level?) and can it be machined flat again? So there shouldn't be a problem going from dohc to sohc? And I would like to hear more about your project!

I am looking at getting a ej25 dohc out of a 96 legacy and was curious if it would be a good pair for my heads from my 97 impreza 2.2l (its sohc). I don't know much about engine swaps, but am looking for a project and thought a franken motor would be a fun NA project.

That is the kit that I purchased and yes, it had install directions in it. I ended buying a new bush kit and repressing it, then getting a longer through bolt with some extra washers to put between the link and the sway bar. Everything seems to be holding up fine now.

I don't think that they will work. When I did the 2000 forester there was some weird stuff with the parts store where they ended up needing the actual manufacture date because they were different between 99-00. I went through 3 cv's until I got one that fit right. The problem I was running into with the different cv's was the different dust shield designs. You could probably just knock off the dust shield and put the one from your cv on and it may work.

Good call on the primitive rally school. I have taken it twice and it is one of the bests ways I have spent my money.

If you can locate the two speaker wires that go to say your rear left, you can take a battery and touch one wire on each end of it. You should hear static or fuzz from the speaker. If you don't get anything then you should pull the speaker and check the connections ect. I doubt that the wiring between the head unit and the speaker is at fault because that is all run beneath the carpeting and is fairly well protected. Another thing to check for: When I swapped out my speakers in my doors I found that they had been water damaged. Apparently condenstion from my window built up in the door and never got out and it soaked into the speaker cone. If you have damaged weather stripping or and sort of fault in your door/window seals the speakers may just be shot.

The inner is held in by a roll pin and yes the outer is held by the axle nut and depression. If that system has never been apart you should beware. I just did a 2000 forester cv and we ran into some problems with rust and such. Granted the forester had spent several years in alaska where they salt the roads every winter....

I changed the rear diff oil the other day, that stuff smells terrible. It seemed pretty low when I pulled the top plug I could barely touch the oil with the tip of my finger, so it was definitely a good way below that top filler level. There was a little bit of bronze flakes in the fluid, and the standard fine metal shavings on the magnetic plug. It seems to drive a little smoother after the oil change, but it did not affect the gear whine at all.

Mine has always idled between 800-1000. I think our 2.5rs idles about 800 as well.

You should be fine, as long as they are fairly close in size. I corded two front tires in an autocross and replaced them, I never had any problems even though the fronts and backs didn't match brand and were just under a 1/4 inch off.