snowscooby

Your cruise control works off of the vss. Also a P0500 code can put your car into a limp mode which tends to be very annoying. Check your engine grounds first thing. Make sure they have a good connection and are nice and tight. A loose ground can throw a P0500 code as it did for me. Check to see if your car has an electronic vss or a speedo cable. If it is the cable, your cable could be starting to fray and may need replacement. There are two parts to the cable, one short bent section from the transmission and then a longer part that goes to the back of the gauge cluster and runs the speedometer. You will want to check both sections of cable. To do so you will need to pull your gauge cluster and disconnect you cable from the back of it. Check the ends of the cable to make sure the connectors aren't worn round (they fit into a square hole). You can pull the cable out of the housing and look for any damage to the cable. For electric VSS, you have one vss in your tranny, on the top passenger side of it. The other is in your speedometer. You will want to bench test them to see which one needs replacing. Once again, check all of your grounds.

Just move to washington! All of my friends in my town have PA's, exhausts, and flashy lights. The only thing that seems to be an attention getter (at least in my town ((for the cops))) are the fake blue hid lights. Just read up on your laws to see what you can do. Keep it classy and people will recognize you. I found that converting my body styling from a 1997 impreza L to a 2.5rs with 22b vents actually turns quiet a few heads. There are plenty of things you can do that are fun, teach you a lot about cars, and legal.

Turning does not affect it. You tend not to hear it under accl. When you come off the throttle you hear it in all gears, but I have found that it is most pronounced at a little bit higher speeds. The other reason I thought rear diff was that my FSM said something about excessive backlash. When I am at constant throttle (not accelerating or decelerating) the car will sort of jerk back and then forward again like its hard for it to maintain a constant throttle. The FSM said that the side pinion or ring (not sure at the moment, i don't have it in front of me) in the rear diff could be going out and to fill oil to recommended level.

These are the endlinks that I used: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=KLC30 I think the problem came from improper sizing, it seemed like the measurement to attach to the sway bar was slightly off.

I have been investigating a whine (possibly transmission or rear diff.) and was curious if there was a good place to start (common bearing or somthing that would cause whine while in motion). If there is how do I go about checking it? I have a 97 impreza L 2.2 MT with aprox. 163k.

I was a little dissapointed with whiteline's front endlink setup for my 1997 Impreza L (2.2l). I had them paired with a rallitek front sway bar and had horrible problems with the bushings on the endlink coming out. Had to order a new bush kit and ended up fixing it with my own bolts and extra washers so that the bushings couldn't come out of the housing. Once they were fixed they worked great.

Private messaging automatically is activated after you have 10 posts. I found that I could not use it before then.

It depends on what "worth it" is to you. I started setting my car up for auto-x when I was 15 and now I am looking into careers in auto-engineering. I would say its worth it.

I run a cat-back borla system on my impreza and it is super quiet at low rpms. I really like the sound of it. However it was about 600$ new so that kinda sucked, I would suggest looking into similar systems and see what you find. The tip design helps a lot (I have never seen a tip shaped the same way) at keeping the sound down. Its 3 inches tapered down to about 2 or so where it meets the actual muffler.

At 2:45 in your under the car video is that the cv or the tie rod? On the cv's there should be dust plates (on both ends). Also when i checked my cvs i had one person hold the boot near the wheel and i tried to rotate the shaft to check for rotational play (not just up and down).

I would have to think straight pipe would make it harder to pass emissions. If you are looking for a nice sound there are lots of aftermarket options (cat-back).

Nice, congrats on the new suby!

I seem to be having a similar problem as you with the noises. Sometimes if i let off the gas the car clunks a little and it will send a jolt down the whole car. I also get a whine when i let off the acceleration. Do you get any whine? I couldn't hear any in your video or sound clips. I drove with a mechanic from our shop and he suggested cv or possibly the differential. We then put my car up on blocks and put it in gear and listened for the sounds, and there wasn't really any clunk under accl/deccl. I think that it may have something to do with the load on the car? There is some play in my front right cv (not a lot just a small fraction of a turn) but I am hesitant to think that its the culprit because its only a couple years old. (also my other cv is one year old and has almost the same amount of play). I don't know if this information helped at all, but If you put it up on blocks I would try and listen to the rear diff. We put a piece of pipe up to it and it sort of funnels/ amplifies the sound coming from it so that may help you.

I have a 97 impreza with the 2.2 in it. When I was 16 I bought a borla cat back system. It sounds really nice, when you are at idle you can't hear the exhaust at all, and it has a nice low rumble till about 4500-5k rpms then it starts to get a little louder but it never sounds like the coffee can ricer exhausts you hear. It was expensive, but I definitely enjoyed my purchase. http://www.borla.com/products/product_detail.aspx?prod_sku=14885

I would have to think that the CVs should be consistent on both sides of your car. I have found the cv a to be a fairly simple fix, and you can get them for about 100$ (I think).

Thanks, I'll see if I can program the scanner to read the temp gauges. Is there a way to bench test the 02 sensor, for instance what should the voltage read on it when its running and its resistance readings?

P0420 code thrown in a 2000 forester 160k MT. The car runs really terrible, stutters and hesitates under acceleration almost all of the time in 1st and 2nd gear and a little bit in 3rd gear. I am looking into changing the front 02 sensor like the other threads suggest, but I was curious if the 02 sensor could make it run that bad? Also a possible exhaust leak (could that cause it to run this way?) Another bit of interesting information, I ran my scangauge2 on the car and the fuel system loop status seemed to change from open to closed when it wasn't supposed to. (The information I saw said that it was usually a closed loop except when the engine was closed or at full throttle) Is that regulated by the front 02 sensor (or both?)

Looks like a 94 legacy bumper, possibly jdm.

What car do you drive again? I can check my FSM's for the pressure sensor when I get back home from my trip.

Have you checked in the engine compartment behind the passenger side headlight? I am pretty sure that is where mine is (97 impreza sedan). Did you check the hoses behind the rear passenger tire (behind that metal plate)?

Keeping my fingers crossed, but I may have found a loose ground that seems to have cleared up the problem for now. For anyones future reference, if you are getting CELs and you have a scanner, check to see what kind of info your ecu is reading. Its possible that a ground is causing your problem instead of a sensor.

Did you get the p0440 code immediately after you fixed the pin hole leak? I would re-inspect the evap system (all of the hoses and the canisters) and possibly look into the fuel tank pressure sensor? If the sensor was reading incorrectly it may only register with a certain amount pressure, therefore a tank with 3/4+ would trigger it to read correctly? Thats just a theory, I am not sure how the ECU interprets fuel pressure information in relation to the EVAP system.

We own an 07 impreza wagon and an 08 outback sport. I like the seats in the '07 better, and when they were both stock the '07 seemed to handle a little better. The obs had a lot of body roll, but an sti sway bar helped that quite a bit. Now they feel like they are about the same. They both accelerate about the same (not to quick), we have named the obs "steady betty" due to its even acceleration... The obs gets between 28-33 depending on how its being driven.

Nice, got any plans for it?

Was just curious if they were planning on doing a rallyx or autox on sunday, i can't seem to find any information on it so I am guessing no?