bstone Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 I am still looking for the TPS adjusting method in the service manual. I have the many, many PDF version and search isn't so easy. The code coming now is only P1507, even after the replacement IACV, so I am thinking this is the issue and not the IACV. So, I ordered this from the AutoZone that is just around the corner and they said it will be here Wednesday after 3pm. The junkyard is refusing to sell my just one component from the transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Oh, found the TPS adjustment procedure in msa5tcd97l3510.pdf B: ADJUSTMENT1) Turn ignition switch to OFF. 2) Loosen throttle position sensor holding screws. 3) When using voltage meter; (1) Take out ECM. (2) Turn ignition switch to ON. (3) Adjust throttle position sensor so that signal voltage to ECM may be in specification. Connector & Terminal / Specified voltage (B84) No. 24 — (B84) No. 25 / 0.45 — 0.55 V [Fully closed.] (4) Tighten throttle position sensor holding screws. It says "take out ECM". It wants me to remove the ECM from the car? The one under the dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Pretty sure the ECM is under the carpet on the passenger floor board. You might have to unbolt it from the floor to get the connector unplugged. Holy hell!!! $99 for the inhibitor switch?!?! Rockauto lists it for $27. Probably ~$35 with shipping and you can probably have it in the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Pretty sure the ECM is under the carpet on the passenger floor board. You might have to unbolt it from the floor to get the connector unplugged. Holy hell!!! $99 for the inhibitor switch?!?! Rockauto lists it for $27. Probably ~$35 with shipping and you can probably have it in the same time. You are right, AutoZone has it for way too much while RockAuto has it for a very reasonable price. I think I'll cancel the AZ order. Update: Canceled AZ order, got from RockAuto instead. Edited October 18, 2010 by bstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 So, I remove the ECM or just unplug it. Ok. Do I do anything with it or just leave it removed/unplugged while checking for .45 to .55V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 There's no reason to physically remove the ECM (unless you can't get to the connectors.) Just unplug it. They don't want it electrically loading down the measurement, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Gotchya. Ohhhh- this is how you adjust a TPS! Of course use what Subarus need, but it finally makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Just probe the back of the connector while it's plugged into the ECM. You might need to make some leads that will fit in the sockets out of paper clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Just probe the back of the connector while it's plugged into the ECM. You might need to make some leads that will fit in the sockets out of paper clips. Explain, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 He's saying that rather than unplugging the ECM, you can use paper clips as probes and stick them in the back end of the connectors (the wire side.) You can then attach the paper clips to your meter. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that they wanted the ECM electrically out of the circuit and that was the reason for unplugging it... but maybe the instructions tell you to unplug it just to make it easier for people to probe the connectors. The paperclip trick is easier yet, assuming you don't accidentally short one of them into any nearby metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 He's saying that rather than unplugging the ECM, you can use paper clips as probes and stick them in the back end of the connectors (the wire side.) You can then attach the paper clips to your meter. I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that they wanted the ECM electrically out of the circuit and that was the reason for unplugging it... but maybe the instructions tell you to unplug it just to make it easier for people to probe the connectors. The paperclip trick is easier yet, assuming you don't accidentally short one of them into any nearby metal. Alright, just so I understand..... I leave the TPS plugged in, but I straighten out some paperclips and insert them in the plug, using them as extensions and test from there. Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) Well the ECM delivers 5v to the TPS. TPS sends back voltage based on position. (it's a potentiometer) You're checking return voltage from the TPS at the ECM to make up for any voltage drop in the harness between the TPS and ECM. So the ECM has to be plugged in in order for the voltage to be checked. You don't really need to unplug it, but I always have a hard time figuring out which pin is which from looking through the mess of wires on the outside. leave the TPS plugged in, but I straighten out some paperclips and insert them in the plug, using them as extensions and test from there. Right? Yes, leave the TPS plugged in. Leave the ECM plugged in. Unbolt the ECM from the floor if you need to in order to find the proper pins for testing. Use a paper clip in the pin socket if the leads on your multimeter won't fit. To go a step further, wrap the clips in tape with only about 1/2" exposed at the ends so you don't accidentally touch them together and short something. It won't spark and catch on fire, but the ECM might not be happy about it. Clip leads help a ton with this. If you don't have those, wrap the paper clips around your test leads and tape them together. Edited October 19, 2010 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Well the ECM delivers 5v to the TPS. TPS sends back voltage based on position. (it's a potentiometer) You're checking return voltage from the TPS at the ECM to make up for any voltage drop in the harness between the TPS and ECM. So the ECM has to be plugged in in order for the voltage to be checked. You don't really need to unplug it, but I always have a hard time figuring out which pin is which from looking through the mess of wires on the outside. Yes, leave the TPS plugged in. Leave the ECM plugged in. Unbolt the ECM from the floor if you need to in order to find the proper pins for testing. Use a paper clip in the pin socket if the leads on your multimeter won't fit. To go a step further, wrap the clips in tape with only about 1/2" exposed at the ends so you don't accidentally touch them together and short something. It won't spark and catch on fire, but the ECM might not be happy about it. Clip leads help a ton with this. If you don't have those, wrap the paper clips around your test leads and tape them together. Alright. Now all I need is a multimeter. I'll try to find one at the local Sears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Sears or Radioshack are good sources for multimeters. I picked up a decent Craftsman for abut $35. Although it's definitely low grade for an automotive meter, it gets the job done well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Replaced the Inhibitor Switch (aka Neutral Safety Switch), including the cable. Took about 2 hours as the exhaust pipe was majorly in the way. Put everything back together, cleared the codes and turned it back on. Still doing the idle rise and fall, over and over. Now I am also hearing a grinding type noise, coming from the switch area. I don't think it's the inhibitor switch. Maybe it's the TPS or it could be the IACV that I replaced it with. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Well, I took the old IACV and ran Seafom through it about 20 times. Stuck my small fingers into it and they always came out dark black. I will put it back in tomorrow and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 If you have the old IAC off the car, dunk it in a coffee can full of kerosene. (wear gloves) Scrub it with an old tooth brush as best you can. Then spray it down with a can or two of brake cleaner to finish it off. Take the drive unit off the top beforehand to avoid damaging the electronic bits inside. Just be sure to note the position of the screws for re-installation. This is another of those parts that has to be adjusted a certain way, but you can't do it without a scan tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain brat Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 i was told to try maf cleaner so you dont hurt the elec. stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 Alright, I'll get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. I also have to diagnose the fix the grinding noise coming from the neutral sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnus Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Had the exact same thing my cruise cable was just barley lifting it off the support bar. loosened the nut at the end of the senter bar a litlle and cable and now the code is gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Improper Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 Did anyone ever figure this issue out? Currently having just about the exact same issue with my 00’ RS stock EJ251. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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