Ok, so it looks like my water pump is on the way out. How difficult is this gonna be to get swapped?

 

This is on a 1985 Dual Range Wagon, if it matters...

you will have to take off the timing belt covers to remove the water pump, so you may want to consider at least changing the belts, if not going as far as oil pump seal and crank/cam seals

 

there are a 110mm and 105mm water pumps. the longer one has the pulley slip onto the studs, whereas the shorter one has the pulley BOLT ONTO the water pump. you will be able to tell which one you have as soon as you remove the clutch fan

 

here are some technical how-tos with pics

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

I changed a waterpump on a EA82T sedan a few weeks ago. It wasn't too hard, just annoying because of everything being in front of it. Luckily the engine was out of the car at the time. The hardest part is getting the timing belt covers off without breaking the little things that the screws are in. I would be agreeing with Miles Fox though and probably changing everything while you are in there is a good idea because it is a b*t*h to get in there. Good luck with it and be sure not to tighten your timing belt covers too tight when you put it back together!

I scanned the Haynes book on water pump replacement, and they say it can be changed without removing the timing belt covers. Space looks tight, but if it can be done, I'd prefer that route.

 

What is your guy's opinion?

 

I'm not wanting to change the timing belts, as they were changed not that long ago.

one of the timing belt cover bolts threds into the water pump on the top corner, but if you take the bolt out, you can slip the pump out from under

On an 88 w/AC, do you have to get the compressor out of the way? If so, which bolts allow you to move the pig?

on panasonics and inboard hitachis: flip the alt up out of the way. take out the 12mm bolt underneath. unbolt the 14mm that holds the bracket to the intake. undo the ps tensioner pulley boly, and the hexagonal long nut(12mm) remove the pulley. behind the pulley is a big long 14mm hex, remove it. under the compressor, the far end of the bottom of the bracket LOOSEN the 14mm bolt, and the ac/alt assy will come off, flip it out of the way

Thanks brah, you saved me mucho frustration! I printed your explanation and will do it as soon as I have time. I think my pump-to-pipe o-ring is toast.

I may be mistaken but I seem to remember

on my EA82, two of the H20 pump mounting bolts

were obscured by the driver's side

rear timing belt cover?

Promting me to ask at the time....

has anyone drilled access holes in the cover so it would not have to be removed next time.

Please correct me if I am mistaken.

ol' Skip-'nus, i could go take a look, but all my motors are OPEN BELTS

My FSM alludes to the necessity of removal of the cover - hopefully it's just the o-ring! Will see when I get there and let you know if the pump is truly obstructed.

On my EA82T, I HAD TO remover the timing cover. I can't imagine it taking any longer than "trying to slip out and in " the water pump. I pulled the alternator out and the A/C compressor back. The coolant tube O ring comes with the water pump. IMPORTANT: When I went to get my water pump they BOTH had mountings of the same way, I had to compare with my old one. I spent $36 on timing belts, $32 on the seal kit, (t-belt cover gaskets, cam seals, etc..) $42 on the water pump. I had NEVER worked on a Subaru before, but found it rather simple and WELL worth doing the additonal work and replacement of parts. I did it in one day, by myself. Just a NOTE: (my book did not indicate) but the cam timing mark on the passenger side goes up, the drivers side down).

Sorry if I was wordy, I just did this job less than a week ago, glad I did it. Hope this helps

i just did this yesterday, lol... had to remove the outer t-belt cover on the drivers side to get the pump out.. the inner covers were ok where they were.. of course i had the hole front of the motor off, so i did t-belts and all..

 

if it were me and i had to do it again, i would remove the hole front of the motor, both t-belt covers, pulley's etc.. and change everything all at once.. water pump, t-belts, inspect the crank and cam seals very well and also inspect the oil pump for any leaking.. replace cam, crank, and oil pump seals if needed..

 

just my .02.. its not the easiest thing on a soob to tear it all apart to just do a water pump then have a belt go in 5k and have to do it over again..

 

luckily my engine was out while all this was done..