Partsman

Here is the NAPA number - 605-3185. If your local store doesn't have it, they can get it from several NAPA warehouses in the midwest (looks like Wisconsin and Minnesota have several). $35.19 plus freight if it has to be ordered from a distant warehouse.

I'm leaning toward the fuel pump from everything I've read in this post. Facet (the rattler pump manufacturer that makes them for NAPA and probably for Purolater too) makes one that does 2 1/2-4 1/2 lbs. If your 4-7 lb. pump is running on the high side, it's probably pushing fuel right past the needles in that carb.

6207 is the base number for the bearing. You add a suffix to show what seals it has. NAPA's supplier also adds a "J" at the end, which means it has a steel cage to hold the bearings. 6207-zj = one metal shield 6207-2zj = two metal shields 6207-rsj = one rubber seal 6207-2rsj = two rubber seals The first line bearings are pretty expensive - if you're on a budget, add a "P" to the beginning of the part number for second line bearings. We sell them for under $9 a bearing.

NAPA (United) #81392 Beck-Arnley #085-0116 They cost around $24 each! Maybe you should just do the conversion. Rear brakes (drum) don't do all that much anyway unless you're driving hard.

On a previous posting of this question, I called my local dealer to ask about the proportioning valve. At least for the 1988 model year, there is only one proportioning valve no matter whether you have disc or drum rear. Any other questions, check this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15970&highlight=proportioning+valve

NAPA info: primary (under vehicle) - $3.49 - need to measure the size of the lines - part # 3021 for 5/16", # 3089 for 11/32" vapor diverter - $4.49 - part # 3201 hope that fixes what ails ya!

No - different sizes diameter and overall height - solid vs. vented too.

Any of you East coasters craving brats? Lookee here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2486971504&category=6467&sspagename=WDVW

Thanks for all the help. If you need any dinosaur help, come on over to the Old Gen side!

Go to the junkyard! Got mine out of a 97 wagon - fits almost perfectly in my 88. Just have to find one that the owner bought it as an option.

Welcome! You should come to visit Oregon if you want to see Subarus of your vintage. There are probably 50 or more of your style (and older!) driving around Eugene. BUT, I'll bet there is not an old Subaru in this country with such low mileage! At least, not one that we on this board have gotten ahold of ! Is it in perfect condition, or are there any problems you need to address? With such low mileage, I would think you might have issues with dry oil seals leaking from lack of use.

Try the Autotrader - website or paper version. Think about buying for less and sinking the rest of the money into maintenance/repair items. We're all about fixin Subes here! My advice - get a loaded GL-10 turbo wagon with 5spd D/R, late 80's. Second choice - no turbo, SPFI (like mine!) OOPS - No turbo wagons with D/R, if I remember the discussion some time ago. How about a loaded turbo wagon with M/T, and swap in a D/R from the junkyard!

Gotcha. I don't think they use hi beams too much in Honolulu, so no dipping.

One update: apparantly the positive cable has NOT been changed yet - they say it is backordered. Anyone experienced problems with the positive cable? What you all are saying sounds right to me. Not used to cars being under warranty (as you can see from my sig ). Should just make them change the whole flippin' harness as well as the positive cable.

Hope you know somebody who can do fabrication ! Let me know if you need any "stuff" - NAPA 342-2626 Brian

I think the only other "filter" is a strainer in the tank.

Sorry - what do you mean by "dip"?

Bump - nobody has any other ideas?

What are we looking at? :-\ The North Carolina northern lights?

See, I'm thinking more along the lines of power or ground feeds, since the lights dim and the speedo/tach go to zero. What do you think?

Hey guys - trying to help out my father-in-law's girlfriend. She has an '02 Legacy. Problem is: intermittently, the lights dim, speedo and tach go to 0 and the car shakes (misfire?). Goes away fairly quickly - only once has she been stranded. Seems to happen more in rainy weather, but not exclusively in the wet. Car is still under warranty. Dealer has replaced the battery, battery cables, and alternator - no help. Of course, they cannot get the problem to occur when the vehicle is in the shop. They live in Honolulu, so there is only one dealership group to take the vehicle to. They don't have any faith in the techs at the one they've been patronizing (understandably), so I told them I would post it to you all here on New Gen. Thanks!

Looks like you're due for timing belts in about 10k - reseal the oil pump while you're in there. Get the Beck Arnley 039-6320 reseal kit, which has the Mickey Mouse seal, the round body seal, and the shaft seal - NAPA can get it for you.

Keep watching EBay - I see them coming up all the time for early 80's Subies and no one seems to bid on them. Patience, grasshopper.

ALWAYS save your receipts! most parts stores won't keep any info along those lines - think of all the work storing customer info. I'm surprised they keep it at all. Oh, did I say ALWAYS save your receipts?

My experience with clicking involved replacement of the CV shaft (the obvious choice), then finding that the outer wheel bearing was rusting. Was afraid of the pressing of bearings, so I got a lo-miles spindle from B & R Pick & Pull, packed the bearings, replaced the seals and slapped it on. Voila! No noise!