Partsman

And parts remanufacturers rejoiced - the next generation (Delphi) alternator has GOT to be the highest failure rate alternator on the market.

Man, the Ford filter (1515) would make me nervous! Don't know what the micron rating is on the paper media. It also has a built in bypass valve that kicks in at 8-11 psi, whereas the NAPA 1361 (correct by application) does not have a bypass. That leads me to believe that you might be running that 1515 in bypass mode some of the time (NO filtration). If you want a bigger filter, the 1647 is the same physical size as the 1515 with no bypass. Of course, if you subscribe to the bigger is better theory, you can also try the 1431 (5.638" long, no bypass), the 1512 (5.842", no bypass) or the 1773 (1 quart capacity, 6.982", 8-11 psi bypass). OR, you could use the proper filter and change your oil regularly!

Should be some sort of strainer in the tank - never seen a part number aftermarket. No second filter. BTW, anyone know how/where to check fuel pressure? I have almost the same problem developing, but mine only happens at 3/4 tank and below, so I think there's a problem with the pump pulling prime. Roxtar, didn't mean to hijack your post - I think you need to check your pressure as well.

Cadillac Deville with fuzzy dice on the mirror?

The short answer is - yes. Get your battery charged up off the vehicle by a charger. Your alternator can fry as a result of trying to charge a dead battery. Also, the alternator doesn't work as well when the battery is down. Your alternator may be the cause of your problems as well. Take it off and run it to your local NAPA and have it tested for free. Finally, you could be having connection problems. If you have a lot of corrosion on the battery cables (either end) it could be not allowing power to flow.

Went out and popped my doors - speakers measured just over 6" front AND rear, but the grille screen was smaller in the front. Stock speakers, 88 GL wagon. So there!

Have you asked the wrecking yard any of these questions? They will probably know. It seems to me that yards are required to have title to the cars on the lot - I recall having to sign over the title when my 79 Malibu went to the happy hunting grounds.

6 1/2" (verified on Crutchfield.com) in all 4 doors.

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Look on page 69 of this FSM for test procedure: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf Have you ever replaced your sensor?

Try this manual: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf Look at tests for IAC valve and circuit. Do you have a code set? I doubt it's a problem with linkages physically touching if it only revs to 3.5k.

That's each.

Any other parts guys out there? Let's make this a network. No one should have to pay retail! BTW, I can get a wholesale discount at Kendall Subaru here in town because of working at NAPA if that helps anybody as well. Let me know!

Do a search for "lifter noise" and you will come up with a lot of info - basically, your lifters aren't filling up completely, usually because your oil pump seals are bad but not always.

I was hoping to get other parts dudes to put up posts and maybe make this a sticky! (hint hint!) For other parts questions, PM me or call 541-342-2626 Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 8:30 to 7:00. to answer your questions: GD - We buy and sell parts between stores some - since there are different ownership groups for each store/set of stores, we charge each other 10% profit markup on sales, so we only do it as a last resort when the distribution center in Portland doesn't have the part. I "might" be able to sell parts through the store attached to the DC on Lombard Street, but it would not be easy, especially since I'm not supposed to take Visas over the phone. Have to check with the DC people. Caboobaroo - Dana ball joints are $31.47 - regular $56.79 Beck Arnley's are $29.53 - regular $44.49 Would have to order from portland, but we have 2 trucks a day weekdays, so it is not a problem.

Lets start a list of parts people willing to discount for USMB'ers. I work at NAPA in Eugene, and am willing to give the wholesale discount to anyone who comes in and mentions USMB to me. Unfortunately, we do not ship, but if we can get a network together, people won't have to order UPS for common stuff. Brian

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473050593&category=6762 Starting bid is only $8.00! It's older than I need, but there's got to be somebody on this board that needs one!

My motor was exactly the same - was running on the wire instead of the brush! I suppose you could replace the brushes, but it looked like a bi**h to put back together and I wasn't sure where to get brushes anymore, so I replaced the unit. The NAPA new one is $59.99 over the counter - part# 655-1617. However, I'm cheap (even though I get the employee discount) so I got a JY unit from a 93 loyale with 78k on the odometer for $20.

Yo hatch! Awesome shot! You should think about a career in photography.

I'm also with GD on this one. Look at an old car with vac advance (60's or pre-emissions 70's) and you'll find one vac hose - ported source, going to the advance, and one - manifold source, going to the brake booster (if it has one!) The only difference in signal is when it's at idle - as soon as you crack the throttle, both sources give the same vacuum.

Conversion is cheaper than buying R12 at current prices! Glad I still have a little can stashed away from bygone years when they cost $3!

You probably are a subaru addict if: You meet a hot babe and can only think of how to talk her out of her Sube instead of her clothes!

Question is - can you even still buy straight 90W? All I have on the shelf is multigrade (75w90, 80w90, 75w140, 85w140, and straight 140w). 80w90 should be fine for all - acts like 80W when cold and 90W when hot.

Champion was a good company until the mid 1980's when they were bought by another corporation. Their R&D department was, for all intents and purposes, shut down and they were really bad about proper heat ranges, etc. Since then, they were bought by Federal Mogul (mid 1990's?) and now they make a good quality spark plug once again. In fact, they make a lot of specialty plugs for other manufacturers. HOWEVER, I still wouldn't put one in my Subie! NGK all the way for me!

Sounds more like a problem with the compressor to me - too much drag? Which pulley got the replacement bearing? And were the other components tested for spinning freely?