Partsman

Your meter may be SLIGHTLY out of calibration, but it's not unusual to see a digital meter read something other than infinity. Maybe you have high humidity and there's a little conductivity in the air? And on the staying at 0 ohms after taking the leads apart - do you have some sort of latching function that shows what the lowest ohm reading reached is? Those Flukes are awesome units, and have a lot of features my Craftsman meter doesn't.

Pressure test your cap (or just get a new one). Sounds like it's blowing back into the reservoir causing it to pour over, since it was already overfilled. Cellophane can't take the heat! You probably don't have a leak, so the Bar's won't do a thing (except maybe plug off some passages that were close to plugged, leaving you with reduced cooling capacity or heater ability).

You know, everyone is entitled to their opinion without being flamed. I think that just tearing off emissions equipment to make it look cleaner sucks, like Rallyruss said. And we don't have emissions testing here in the southern Willamette valley. Hope you aren't moving to an area that has testing, brah! Of course, if the mods don't increase emissions appreciably and you get more power, I'm all for it! And no, I'm not a hippie - I just don't like to sleep where I take a sh*t.

If the coil is designed for a V8 that revs to 5000 rpm, thats 40000 sparks per minute (5000x8). For a 4 cyl to spark that much, it has to turn 10,000 rpm (10,000x4). So that shouldn't be an issue

Here - have (most) of a 1989 FSM: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf My symptoms with a code 24 were that it would not idle when cold and died when decelerating occasionally. My code 34 doesn't seem to do much other than (I think) lower my mileage. Reset and see what pops back up! Diagnostic tree is in section 2-7 of FSM, methinks.

Definitely check the PnP yards for IAC's if indeed yours turns out to be bad. You can yank and install a lot of used ones for $260!

So, if you're going to license the concept, what will it cost to gain the rights to use the hallowed Trashy name?

My FSM alludes to the necessity of removal of the cover - hopefully it's just the o-ring! Will see when I get there and let you know if the pump is truly obstructed.

Hey, check out these PDF's of part of the 89 FSM. Page 130 of Part one has the timing procedure: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf and the description of the idle switch is somewhere in section2-7 of this part: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf

Thanks brah, you saved me mucho frustration! I printed your explanation and will do it as soon as I have time. I think my pump-to-pipe o-ring is toast.

Samo, I had a clicking that progressed from light only on braking to sounding bad. I changed CV axles (one had boots torn out), but it turned out the left outer wheel bearing was going bad from water getting past the seal. Found it when we pulled the axle out and the rust was all over the splines. The other variable that I had was it clicked worse turning one direction and went away turning the other (at speed).

Only Miles would catch RR track air with a bad CV axle!

Rock on, Fox! :headbang:

On an 88 w/AC, do you have to get the compressor out of the way? If so, which bolts allow you to move the pig?

Your IAC valve mounts on the passenger's side of the throttle body. It has a big round connector. Look just behind your power steering pump pulley. I assume you have a code 24 in the computer. There is a diagnostic tree to follow to make sure you have a bad one. See this link: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf and go to page 67. BTW, when I did the testing, there was nothing wrong with my IAC, just the wiring. I ran a new wire from the driver's side firewall harness connection to the IAC and everything was copacetic. P.S. the first half of that factory manual is at: http://www.finleyweb.net/docs/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf everyone should have a copy (that owns an applicable car, of course!)

I find it funny that two such incredibly knowledgeable Sub guys can get into such pi**ing contests! You guys keep this board rollicking; Skip with the erudite statements designed to go over the head, and Miles with the earthy comebacks. I appreciate you both!

you measure ohms resistance on every Pnp blower motor resistor, egr solenoid and purge control solenoid you see. BTW, my wife used to hate it when I would point and say "PARTS", but now I've got her doing it too! Funny story, related to me by a fellow Subathist here at the NAPA store (was it you, Garner?) He went to a local business here called Coyote Steel in his mom's Sube and parks next to a Corvette. Was in at the counter with the counterman when another fellow walks in and says, "Who owns that car out front?" The counterman proudly asks, "The 'Vette?" The guy goes, "No! The Subaru!" :banana: :banana: .

Noah, that's an interesting factoid. Do you work in the petroleum industry, or are you boning up for Super Millionaire? Honestly, I didn't know that the research method trended higher - I just assumed they were closely related and the averaging was to correct for anomalies in the testing processes, kind of like the Bowl Championship Series computer average (oh wait, that doesn't work worth a dang!).

A new NAPA axle will run you $66.99 red sheet (retail) plus a $55.00 core deposit. To me, changing axles isn't nearly as much fun as other stuff you can work on - would rather have a reman than used (and I love to go to PnP's, even with my employee discount).

Do a search for "coil bracket"- there are several threads (one very recent) in which your type of problem was nailed down to the ignition amplifier, which is apparantly attached to the coil bracket. (God, I hope your '85 has one - otherwise I'm totally off base!)

Bosch 12053 - $43.99 red sheet (over the counter) at NAPA - this is the one with the correct connector Bosch 11027 - $21.99 red sheet NAPA - this is the one with no connector (comes with splice and instructions) NAPA used to sell Echlin oxygen sensors which cost $69 or so - changed to Bosch, no quality difference I'm aware of, just less expensive. BTW, ask your parts guy for a discount - most of us have some latitude in pricing. I can give a "good customer" discount, a AAA member discount, and a wholesale discount. For example, the two Bosch sensors I would sell to USMB'ers at $40.91/$20.45. Other parts have better discounting available. Sorry, I don't ship parts - you have to come and see me in Eugene.

You know, it may be a little high, but if you trust Brian and know he (or his techs) do a good job, it may be worth it for the peace of mind. Myself, I'm too cheap - will learn how to do it myself when the downpours slow down:D .

OK, pretty wild! HOWEVER, it is a very clean install. I would have expected nothing less. Not a sign of an open timing belt anywhere! (Sorry Miles) What is this website, pray tell? BTW knight - sorry for the post hijack. If you want this to get back to your original question, let us know!

AHA! Always look at the obvious first. I'll bet your problem is right there on those fittings.

Do I detect a note of - wait, no - YES! IT IS! SARCASM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your purple prose (or in this case, orange) gives me a smile. May you continue to moderate with thy tongue firmly in cheek and thy helping hand straightening out the threads which become hopelessly entangled. P.S. Do I gather correctly that you are more of a keep it stock guy than a wild modifier, Skip?