Partsman

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That's weird, mine only gurgles when my coolant leak (that I haven't had time to track down) has drained the system about a gallon. When I fill up the radiator (and the overflow), it goes away.

Check the dipstick - overfull with milkshake looking oil, I'll bet!

The e-brake is the turning part - man, it freaked me out the first time I looked under my car and saw the brake cables going to the front! NAPA # for the cube is 775-9037 (taiwan tool) or 3163 (american tool). Flow, I love to hear about guys who can McGyver up a tool! More power to you! GLCraigGT, a reman caliper IS OEM, they just go through and put new seals/pistons/bleeders in. The casting is still genuine SOA. Just don't buy the cheapest piece out there - you do get what you pay for in a lot of cases. Failure rate on calipers at this NAPA store is next to nothing.

Overnight is not immediate enough? Check with Garner on the Beck repackage question - I sold him some Beck stuff recently.

Napa Belden part# is 700731 - $21.99 red sheet price If that part number you gave first is for Taylor, I think you are missing a digit in it? My Taylor book does not list application data for Subies, so I can't help there. Lengths on the Belden set: 11, 13, 32, 36, and 10 coil

You know, brakes are a fairly important system - you might want to go reman on that caliper instead of junkyard, where you never know exactly how contaminated the fluid is and how far gone the seal is! I show the cost as $69.99 exchange here at NAPA - cheap considering brake failure (esp. on one side) can kill you and the drivers around you!

Your NAPA store can get them, either from Beck-Arnley or from Clevite. They have to be ordered from the manufacturer either way, but both of them have sweetheart deals with FedEx to overnight them for less than $10. Don't let your store charge you more! Clevite #'s: MS-1571-AL-.25mm (main set) $48.49 red sheet price CB-1217-P-.25mm (rods, need 4) $42.76 red sheet Beck-Arnley #'s: 014-6062-10 (main set) $61.49 red sheet 014-6441-10 (rod set) $46.49 red sheet

Keep your maintenance current. Old spark plugs, wires, and having the timing off will suck the gas. And, like MaroonDuneDoom says, baby it!

It's not giving you anything? not even the code for the computer?

First - drive it! You know what it's supposed to feel/sound/ride like from your 88. (assuming it runs) Check for any service records - Tbelt especially. Look at the CV axles and see if the boots are torn up. Check engine light on? Read the codes and see what the computer is unhappy about.

With the tee type of flush, you should pinch off the heater hose on the normal flow side so you get a backflush. Blows the crap off of your heater core and other stuff when the flow goes backwards.

Skip, Thank you! I thought I had to tear into the heater box to get at the little bugger. Now I can get back setting #1! To the boneyard I go, to get lots of little doodads:D

But don't rev too much! ATF is nasty stuff. The engine flush that I sell (which is along the same lines) tells you to just idle the car and not to drive it.

Continuing from the trampling of the previous post: Has anyone used Beck-Arnley filters? I use one on my wife's Camry because it looks identical to the Toyota version - the B/A rep told me a long time ago that they buy from the same factories as the OEM for their parts. NAPA gold (and Carquest's best filter, for that matter) are Wix. NAPA oil is manufactured by Ashland oil, the parent company of Valvoline, and I can't imagine they put a different additive package in them - they have just released high-mileage and synthetic NAPA branded oill, and the bottles are even the same color as Valvoline's offerings. That web page in the other post is really fascinating! I read it a while back and couldn't put it down:D

Getting back to your original question, Ozsubie, I can't see the filter causing your lifters to tick - more likely something is partially blocking your lash adjuster and it showed up due to the oil change. But the first thing to try is to go back to your preferred brand of filter; however, when you dump the oil, you MIGHT cure the problem and it not be the filter that fixed it (Mr mechanic, you changed my oil and now my taillight is burned out! You should fix it for free!). Otherwise, either try the treatments you will find here for lifter tick or live with it like many of us! P.S. Napa gold filters are by Wix, and silver filters are sold by Wix but are apparantly manufactured by an el-cheapo company.

So you've decided on .5mm - let me know when you are ready to get those rings (re)ordered. If you have the time, we can order them ground UPS and save a couple of bucks on freight.

Vice, that's exactly the hose to use. Anybody know Warp3's answer? I'm pretty sure that silicone hose will work, but it's mondo expensive

Yo Arch - Just reading the manufacturer's book, man. If you like coolant hoses blowing at inopportune times, go right ahead and put whatever the f:Dk you want on your vehicle. I DEFINITELY agree that in a pinch, you should put on whatever you can, aldoat, but later, you should put on the RIGHT stuff. Ask your parts store to order it if they don't have it!

Skip - Nice VOICE OF GOD post there, bro! However, extended life antifreeze actually has a maximum recommended mix ratio of 70/30 (I'm looking at the back of a bottle of Zerex and a bottle of Prestone). At that ratio, you are protected down to -84 degrees and up to 276 degrees - from that ratio up, you go down in temperature as you stated. Incidentally, standard antifreeze has the exact same mix ratio and temperature maximum/minimums. GD - I pulled up MSDS's on antifreeze and cannot find any mention of zinc in antifreeze. They have some complex chemicals that do what you stated, but no zinc. Setright - I think, over time, if you are only running 25% mix, you are going to corrode your radiator, water pump, and coolant passages. Maybe not too soon, but eventually.

My NAPA/Gates book sez in bold letters: Do not use fuel hose for pressure-side hose on fuel injected engines OR ON COOLANT SYSTEM APPLICATIONS. Buy heater hose - it's available down to 1/4" (not sure what size that hose is) and its cheaper than fuel line! The difference is the rubber in heater hose is resistant to electrochemical breakdown which is caused by the cooling system.

Yes, they are SUPPOSED to be pregapped, but they are shipped in a large container over the Pacific Ocean so there is the possibility that the ones you buy will have been the ones jarred out of gap - so ALWAYS check!

MaroonDuneDoom - Orange antifreeze is extended life coolant developed for GM, called DexCool. Green coolant is also "especially formulated for aluminum engines." I saw several GM trucks come into the shop I worked at with rust plugs at the filler neck because they didn't have quite enough DexCool put in at the factory and the upper radiators rusted badly. Don't pay extra for stuff you don't need!

I personally wouldn't want to go much below a 50/50 mix for this reason - CORROSION INHIBITORS! They keep your passages from becoming swiss cheese. That's why you need to remove and replace your coolant every 2 years - the inhibitors break down. Adam N.D.J., I run 50%, temps here rarely get below 30 as well, and my heater works fine - maybe you have another problem, such as rust clogging your heater core!

Did you gap your plugs? Which NGK's did you put in? Perhaps, if you put the right ones in and gapped them correctly, you got a bad plug. Bosch +2's are gimmicks - the spark will only go to the closest prong. Plus, your system was not designed to fire platinum plugs (they have a higher resistance than copper plugs), so your coil and wires will not last as long.