Partsman

No worries dude - I've been ticking off and on for a year and a half! Fix it at next timing belt change. But feel free to try the various engine flush/marvel mystery oil/oil change suggestions at your oil changes - probably won't fix it, but it might!

Do they go all the way through into the coolant section? Fill it and see. If so, you can probably get plugs for them (not knowing what kind of thread they are, I say probably). If not, I think junkyardgabe is on the money - the rad. is for automatics as well as stick shifts.

Man, if you beat me like that, I'd be good too! Wiggle your connectors when you are testing things - mine was somewhat intermittent. I fixed connections at both ends before just saying f- it and putting in the new wire.

My experience with the one junkyard who would pull solenoids for me in this area is that if you find one that ohms out, it will be a Fluke! :D I really appreciate you making the effort, and if you don't find what you're looking for for yourself, let me know and maybe I can find something in our fine Pick&Pull - lotsa cars to look at!

Yes, it will be more concentrated. Or, you could buy the 20 ounce bottle and put that in with a full tank. The main reason to put gas in after the Techron is to mix it up good; however, you don't want to have too much more than say 2 ounces to the gallon or you could cause problems. Your 2.5l engine question is probably better posted in the New Generation forum - we like our engines 1.8l or smaller!

I had the wiring go bad to the IAC - would not idle unless you held your foot on it until it warmed up, and would die at stops sometimes. Had to run a new line from the connector at the driver's fender to the valve. Test everything!

For every additive, there are people who worship it and people who think it's the most overpriced cr*pola in the world. Different strokes!

Sex appeal, horsepower.... OOPS! wrong lifetime! I like a car that can go over mountain passes without having to chain up, with room for me, my wife, our luggage and 2 black labs.

Sheesh! I have a full sized tire and rim under the hood so I can actually drive if I need a spare. Temp donuts suck big time - can't drive normal speeds, can only drive a little ways before they are toast, etc. I would ESPECIALLY not trust the donut that came with the car! Rubber gets old and can fail at any time.

They fit back together TIGHT!

Nice of Sub to build them so they feel so close, huh?

1. You are just starting to get into the torque curve at 3k, so this is where your Sub wants to run. Sit back and feel the power! 2. If your heater is blowing out hot air when the temp gauge is low, you are probably fine. 3. Here is a link to the blower motor resistor thread: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=10108&highlight=blower+motor+resistor DO NOT take apart your switch! This is a classic failure we all have probably had (or continue to have). The speeds fail one at a time from 1 on up due to resistor burnout. Read this post, then try the search function on this board. There are all kinds of posts on all kinds of problems that have been discussed here. 4. Change oil every 3mo/3k, coolant every 2years, tuneup with transmission service every 30k, timing belts every 60k, and brake fluid when it starts to turn brown (Subaru recommends every 60k or 15k under severe conditions). Did I miss anything, guys?

As I said, they DO fit well enough to feel like you are actually doing it right - several of the splines grab. I kid you not! I have first hand knowledge!

B & R are the guys who only want to sell the engine with all attachments. I need to go out to the P & P lot again, but if you can find a good one, Erik, I'll be a camper!

You may just need to change the angle that the wipers are contacting the windshield. Especially since we have the sidesaddle type of mount, they can be bent wrong where you get skipping one direction and smearing the other. Bend the adapter towards the direction of the skipping and test until you get them to work right. The other option is that you may have a buildup of something on your windshield that won't come off under normal cleaning. There is a product from No Touch called Glass Stripper which can take off crap you didn't even know was on the surface.

You were sold the 25 spline inboard joint shafts and you needed the 23 spline inboard joint shafts. I did the same thing on mine - the computer here said that carbureted 88's took the 23 spline and fuel injected 88's took the 25 spline, so I installed the 25 spline one, drove around the building, and snapped the pin! I cussed up a storm, but I couldn't blame the parts guy, since it was me!

Man, I just wanted to give credit for a great and easy fix! I used 7/16-14 plug tap, then bottoming tap; put in 7/16x1 1/2" studs and a new gasket, put on a washer to take up a little extra space where the stud thread didn't go to the end, and used brass manifold nuts and Loctite. Didn't even have to drop the Y-pipe - I used the holes in the pipe to align the taps! EXCELLENT! :headbang: ! but now I have to carry one american size tool!

Napa lists it - for your Loyale, it's CRB 2-29347 - $324.00 + freight! Jeez! Check with the dealer - on some of these types of parts, the aftermarket buys them from the dealer. Sometimes they are cheaper, sometimes they are more money. Honestly, JY is probably the way I would go as well:D. Unfortunately, all the area yards here yank engines and sell them with all the stuff attached, so it's impossible to get pieces like your TPS, or the friggin' EGR solenoid that I need!

My NAPA computer says the FP relay is "behind the instrument panel." Man, that sure narrows it down! Sorry I can't help more!

I'm voting for the solenoid contacts on the starter with ru4x4ever. Take off the starter, unscrew the three phillips screws from the solenoid cover, and pull out the plunger. If it's pitted and the contacts look like they're almost gone, that's probably the problem. You can get new contacts and plunger at any electrical rebuilder and some parts stores (not NAPA, however!) Of course, you want to rule out the battery being bad or corrosion on the cables first as stated before.

But it's great for those with adult ADD - lots of quick projects to keep us entertained!

Obviously you have taken very good care of that baby with coolant flushes!

Plug wires with miniscule cracks could be shorting to ground through the condensation on the wires until the engine heats up enough to evaporate the water. Check by misting the wires with a spray bottle of water when it's running ok. If they're bad, the plugs are probably fouled some from the no spark condition, so change them too, at least on the problem ones. Or, it could be something COMPLETELY different:D !

You know - Napa has a book with pictures and end sizes of all the hoses we sell. I've cobbled together stuff for people who have done some bastardized things to their vehicles (Chevy PU with a boneyard diesel's radiator was the worst). Just find someone who is willing to actually work instead of give you cr*p like "we only list by application"

Like QMan sez, where are you? Maybe one of us can check it out for you. Remember, if you're in Western Oregon, the humidity this time of year is close to 100% (hence the fog we get in the morning) and it could be your engine just distilling water for you!