Partsman

Probably only happens at idle, right? I know that my electrical system pulses with my signals at idle (headlights, voltmeter). Our alternators don't put out much if anything at idle - need a certain rpm to excite, I think. Unless you spend an inordinate amount of time at idle, should be no worries (unless it's happening at higher RPM's, then you've got a problem).

Dual range, my brother. Much better to have direct control of your shifting with a lever than to push a button and hope for no electrical gremlins. And when the roads are impossibly slick, lo range will get you through, even if you don't offroad.

Either your sender is going out or your gauge is - zero oil pressure would sound REALLY BAD!

Fuji: 1. Our Subes do not have OBDII. 2. Closed loop is the term for engine management operation when the vehicle is warm and all inputs are within parameters. Open loop is what the car runs in until it is warm. 3. O2 sensors do not operate in the same environment as spark plugs - plugs get a shot of cool air and fuel every once in a while! However, that's like comparing apples and oranges, since the O2 does not have to spark every other stroke - it just handles a chemical reaction and creates current. Other than that, you make several good points. My only addition is that it seems like the computer only sets a O2 sensor code if there is a wiring problem to the sensor. I'm pretty sure I have a 230k old sensor in mine, and there is no check engine light on. However, my mileage sucks, so I am going to change the sensor. In addition, I will check the ground distribution as you suggest.

Legacy bearings have the wrong ID. No go. Make sure you pack the snot out of the new ones with grease!

NAPA price: inexpensive ball joints $16.49 quality ball joints $32.99 outer tie rod ends $37.49 inner tie rod ends $47.49 tie rod ends are only available in quality line (Dana). Should be available, if not in your local store, then from their serving distribution center.

Sorry Earl - I list 4 seperate part numbers for the 4 window motor assemblies. Probably the gear boxes are different. NAPA reman is $124, so best be looking in your local PnP!

The disc for the XT6 has 6 springs instead of the 4 dual spring packs the EA82 disc has. The spring pack on the XT6 disc sits closer to the friction, as well. Finally, the XT6 disc itself is mounted a little bit closer to the bottom when you have both of them sitting on a flat surface. No apparant benefit in using the XT6 disc, and probably some actuation issues.

Off topic - but can anyone help?

Looking in my exhaust catalog, that drawing is exactly what you should have for 86-90 XT 1.8l. A "cheap" NAPA muffler is part# 18494 - $37.29 or so, plus (maybe) a new 2" clamp - part# 7335335 - $1.09 or so. I think you got hosed by a parts guy who doesn't know what an XT is, and thinks you have a generic sub coupe. They make all kinds of muffler inlet/outlet combinations for different cars!

If you're still hankering for data, try this guy's website: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 He has ultralight planes with Sub engines, so his PDF's only have engine and wiring information, but they've been a godsend for me. He has ones for your Legacy as well!

Tim - Did you get the XT6 clutch or the one for the EA82?

That's a heckuva price for that - just the brass tee and nipples retails for more than $10 at most parts stores! I wonder what the control is that he screws into the other port?

I'm looking into the XT6 clutch for an EA82T question myself, for Garner's mondo Brat build. Am going to compare the two discs for myself tomorrow when they get here from my warehouse. Pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing are exactly the same according to the book. I'll let you know what I see tomorrow.

Permatex anaerobic gasket maker: .2 fl oz tube - $3.29 - NAPA# 765-2433 1.69 fl oz tube - $13.49 - NAPA# 765-1189 I wouldn't advise using ANYTHING on head gaskets to my customers - anybody out there have a different experience with Sub heads?

How come the colder t-stat? Could cause you to not reach closed loop on the computer and have it stay running enriched (probably only on cold days).

AMAZING! This vehicle has been reposted, and the first sentence reads: Whether you're looking for a good, reliable car to get you to school/work or need to feel the beauty of all wheel drive this Subaru DL wagon will fit your needs. In the last section on options, they do put down "front wheel drive", however. Guess them boys don't know how to read an entire ad too good -

So THATS what "pug" stands for! I was clueless! Thanks

The adaptor in 3/4 x 16 thread - NAPA filter #4730 should do it. Then you will need a #4762 remote mount base (same threads) and some oil hoses fabbed up (1/2" NPT male ends). Last, you need to figure out a larger filter with the proper bypass valve setting and micron rating in the same thread - lots of choices in 3/4 x 16.

A guy I know has Peugeot rims on his 87 wagon. They look pretty good for street 14" upgrades. Anybody else know about this?

The socket size in 1 1/16" (appx 27mm), BUT it is special. It has a different pattern from a normal socket to grab the whole sender. NAPA part #775-9049 is one - costs $7.49 or so, or #775-9048 - $4.79.

Does anyone know the HELP or NAPA part# for that drain cock? A guy just brought one in for a 87 wagon and it looks like a weird thread size (M10x 1.5) rather than the standard M10x1.25.

That FSM I pointed you to earlier states that the EGR solenoid is supposed to be 32.7 to 39.9 ohms to be good.

Whatever you get, get it fuel injected and M/T for better mileage. Gas is creeping up to $1.80 a gallon around here!

divided by 2 for a four stroke engine. Nice gentle spank, robm!