XTcollector

Soiuxbwarrior, I appreciate the offer, would my wife singing work, I have a terrible voice! The knock sensor is on the back of the block, passengers side, top, just to the right and directly below the throttle cable. I am also interested in the knock controll unit, but I have no ides where it is located. One other thing, I am looking for a distributor for the same car, the one I need has the single hose vacuum advance and inside the cap it has four wires that unplug in there. If you have these please e-mail me direct and we can discuss price and shipping arrangements. Send to TwoErek@aol.com Not to seem pushy, but I have been working on this problem for a month now and am getting impatient, so please respond soon. Again, thanks guys for your responces. Jack

Thanx so far to all who has posted. I'm about 200 miles straight north of Vegas. Little town called Lund.

More battle with the no-start XT. Can anyone tell me if a faulty knock sensor could be my problem. Tried to unplug the sensor and the end came off in the harness. I unplugged the leftovers hoping the computer would just drop into a limp-in mode, but no such luck. At any rate, is there anyone who has a spare knock sensor for an 85 mpfi. This is a 2 wire sensor goes into the knock controller, which by the way I cannot find. I am also too cheap to try the $185 sensor from napa. Still lookin' for that cliff and push bumper! Jack

I drove my bad engine RX up next to the XT and proceded to play musical parts for about 4 hours. The RX looks real bad and the XT has about every possible part from the RX. Including the coil. When I get a chance I will pull the coil from the daily driver XT and give that a try just for ****s and giggles. In the mean time I'm lookin' for a real high cliff and a push bumper!

you all are nutts. You know, there is an open road race here in my home town. Twice a year they close the road and run an open speed race, there are several qualifying speed groups, but it is a heck of a good time. People come from Japan with tricked out cars. The race is about 75 miles, the person with the closest time to the millisecond in the speed class wins that class. Wouldn't mind seeing a few of these nasty subies entered in this race. The first and last races listed are the ones that take place here. Someone here has to be nutts enough to give it a try! Let me know. http://www.silverstateclassic.com/

I am still frustrated on my 85 turbo XT no start. I am going to blame the ignition module and point my finger at the dist. Does any one have an extra dist for this modle. Discription: single vacuum advance port, four wires coming out of the dist and routed over to the left side of engine compartment past the knock sensor and into the inner fender. Getting desprate, and loosin my hair. Wife is a bit anxious to drive her baby too. Somebody please help, wavy a magic wand or something, anything!

I really must agree with LeakingOil "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"

Well, now all you jealous non-high end, non-rare, non-4 cyl justy bumper high rock climber gettin' subie lovers have caused this gentleman to re-evaluate his prised RARE subie. He now lists it as what it is, too bad about the teeth marks on the door, I was going to bid a few thousand for this rare JUSTY!!! I just love uninformed persons!

Careful on foolin with the waste gate. I had one fail on it's own, when climing a summit with the pedal floored it would build enough pressure to blow the air intake housing off the throtle plate assembly.

actually bypassing the H Core will not effect your engine at all. there really isn't much heat drawn off there in relation to cooling the engine. I will admit there is some, but if there is an overheating problem point the finger at the radiator. if you think about it you don't use the heat in the summer, infact if you are lucky you crank up the A/C. this would adversly effect the engine heat if it were relying on the core for cooling purposes. in the event of running hot you can draw some heat off the engine with the heater, but not really enough to help for a very long time. also I agree, do NOT use a leak stop to try to repair a leaky H Core, you would need an enormouse ammount to plug the hole and the cores in the radiator are only about as big as the hole in the H core, you will plug up the rad. and risk damage to engine. These engins are becoming too rare to risk. Good Luck and plan on a day or two to change the core.

New timing Belts, install myself, 3 times just to be sure. Can't really check ignition timing cuz of no start, but have lined up dist. with #1 TDC, several times. Have installed new ground wires, using two different batteries with good full charge. Is the external knock controll unit related at all to the block mount knock sensor? Will check both. Thanks for the suggestions, Goin' bald pullin my hair out.

yes on the compression test, 115, 125,115,120 will try another coil and check for the other parts mentioned, Thanks Guys

I am working with an '85 turbo XT, FWD. I have a no start condition. I have put new timing belts on aswell as changed the injectors, fuel pump and pressure regulator, also new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil. When I purchased this car I was told it had a bad fuel pump, it isn't the problem. I have fuel, spark and air, spark is blue, but weak looking. I have gone as far as pull starting to force running. This did make it run, but real crappy, and not above 500 RPM's. Turbo spins freely and exaust isn't plugged. I swapped ECM's with another XT and the other one ran on this ones ECM, but not visa-versa. I'm thinking a weak ignition module, but lookin' for any advice before spending $400 on one of those. I will soon be trying my 12 ga. if I don't have any other luck. Jack

If interested I have an 88 RX 4 door sittin in my pasture, bad engine. I resurected it once, not worth doing again. If front axels is what you are looking for let me know.