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timing mark on crankshaft pulley


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I have 1998 legacy outback. It has a blown head gasket. I have the majority of the top end taken apart and just need to remove the valve covers and heads.

 

The problem is I cannot find a single mark on the crankshaft pulley to align the time belts before removal.

 

Is there another way or any advice. I can line up the pulleys on the heads and believe I have 1 @ TDC. but still cannot find a mark that is close to where is should be according to the Haynes manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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The mark is on the protrusion that interacts with the crankshaft angle sensor - look all the way to the back of the timing belt sprocket. It is not on the accesory belt pulley. The matching alignment mark is on the end of the crank sensor holder on the oil pump.

 

Then the cam marks must also align - the marks are at the top of the intake cam, and to the right/left on the exhaust cams respectively. These align with notches in the rear belt covers. They also have two hash marks that align with each other (intake sprocket hash marks point to exhaust sprocket hash marks).

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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First off, the Marks on the timing gears do not represent TDC on any piston.

 

In fact the opposite. With the Crank Gear mark straight up, ALL 4 pistons are excactly half way in the bores, 2 on the way up, 2 on the way down.

 

That said, let's locate the marks.

 

Crank gear, the mark is on one of the ears at the back of the gear. It's the one directly opposite of the keyway. So when the mark on the gear is straight up, aimed at the mark on the Crank sensor boss, the keyway will be straight down.

 

Cam gears: The intake Cams (upper) have a single mark, and a double mark. The single goes straight up, the double straight down. Both heads.

 

The Exhaust cam has a single mark, and a double. The double goes straight up, and should be aligned with the double mark of the intake cam. The single hash is 90 deg. off. Should point directly to the "outside". Use this mark to align with marks on the new belt. If using an old belt, ignore it, and go by the other marks being excaclty vertical.

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the keyway will be straight down.

 

you will have to remove the crank pulley to see the key way. if the key way is at 6 o'clock the pistons are out of the way and you have no worries. the cams and valves may jump when you remove the belt, especially the driver side, but with the pistons out of the way you shouldn't have any trouble. if the valves always jump they will go to the closed, safe, position.

Edited by johnceggleston
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There is a dot 180 from the key. Put the dot at 12 o'clock. If you have a manual transmission there is a retainer you need to remove to see the line in back. It lines up with a line on the block. Also there are two bolt holes in the gear. they should be at 3 and 9 o'clock. there is also a triangle mark don't use that. remember the crank goes two revolutions to the cams one revolution. the timing can be tricky for the first timer. but. It has to be dead on. or else.

 

 

http://uncyclopedia.wikia.com/wiki/Or_Else

Edited by Tahoe Subaru
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you will have to remove the crank pulley to see the key way. if the key way is at 6 o'clock the pistons are out of the way and you have no worries. the cams and valves may jump when you remove the belt, especially the driver side, but with the pistons out of the way you shouldn't have any trouble. if the valves always jump they will go to the closed, safe, position.

 

It's not the pistons that are the problem - on the EJ25D the valves interfere with each other, not with the pistons.

 

GD

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There is a dot 180 from the key. Put the dot at 12 o'clock.

 

Not all crank gears have the dot. In fact I'd say most just have the hash line on the ear in the back.

 

Come to think of it, I've only seen the dot on newer engines Phase II 2.5) that have the 36 individual ears, rather than the 5 or 6 that are on the early type.

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It's not the pistons that are the problem - on the EJ25D the valves interfere with each other, not with the pistons.

 

GD

 

true, and when driving at 60 mph and your belt fails there is a really good chance that the valves will collide with each other. but sitting on jack stands and removing the belt i would think the the cams / valves take the path of lease resistance, closing. it is hard for me to imagine a situation where one is opening and the other is closing when the car is sitting still. but i have very limited experience and understanding.

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  • 1 year later...

Almost 2 years! :-p Certainly isn't the oldest thread resurrection we've seen. Remember to check the date before you post. :popcorn:

 

Also, the dot on the face of the sprocket marks TDC. Not used for setting timing. The mark needed for timing is behind the belt guide, not visible in the picture.

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