A coworker of Scotts has a 96 Outback (I think that is what it is) that died and wont restart and I thought maybe it would tell on itself if the codes could be read. Thanks!

You might be able to get something out of it. Problem is the engine has to start before the ECU runs it's diagnostic checks. Unless you have a wiring problem the ECU probably doesn't know anything more than you do until you can get it to start.

 

Three things needed to start. Spark, fuel, compression. Check for those and find out which one(s) you do not have.

i feel like someone recently posted a thread on trying to get it to "flash the code" like old school subaru's so you don't need a scanner? i might be getting confused with something else?

 

***edit*** i just searched and couldn't find it....??

 

some of the larger chain stores do "tool rentals". each area includes different tools in that but maybe they'd include scanners?

Edited November 24, 201015 yr by grossgary

This is SJR Scott's Co-worker (Dann). Thanks Abe, Yes is is a 96 leagacy (post 6/95 production date) outback, stick,2.2. It started and ran fine ever since superdave sold me a tranny for it over a year ago (cheap&thanks ). This is what happened: I started it up no problem, it's about 24 deg F, i let it warm up for only bout 2 min, My wife needed to go somewhere right.. in a rush, well I had a lightweight shed ready to pull, so kill 2 birds one stone right? So I take up the slack of the strap.start to put some pressure and it stalls. I didn't feel it should have, but I assume it is the cold, ok, I try to start, nothing but a cranking motor!! Now my wife believes I broke her car, is that possible???

 

Ok here we go: Timing belt intact

1: No Spark (as I assumed)

2: i checked fuse box and replaced ignition fuse,even though

one in there looked good.

3:fusable link looked good (though if that is bad nothing works?)

4:all the fuses in engine above driver side wheel well ok.

5:I was wondering about the ignition module by the firewall?

6: I am hoping it is not the cam or crankshaft sensor, I have done a crankshaft sensor in an Oldsmobile and it was a pain. The symptoms are the same.

7:I am on a very limited income.I have no credit cards.

8: I am in Ferndale, the whatcom county area/bellingham area.

Thanks Dann

6: I am hoping it is not the cam or crankshaft sensor, I have done a crankshaft sensor in an Oldsmobile and it was a pain. The symptoms are the same.

Unlike the olds, changing the CPS is very much NOT a pain on these. It is dead front and center of the engine right up top. I'm not even sure you have to remove anything else to get it out. You can see it plain as day under the alternator.

 

That and the Ignitor module are the two main reasons for no spark. The CPS is much easier to check though. Just hook an analog multimeter to it and crank the engine. If the needle sweeps back and forth the sensor is likely good. Test the cam sensor the same way.

 

Check the timing belt closely for missing teeth, even though it isn't broken.

Ok, I will check the timing teeth:grin:.

The book I have say's I will need to remove timing belt and a pully, I believe to replace these sensors, is that true? I have learned that the books are fickle about was is truly needed.

No need to remove any covers or belts or pulleys to get to either the crank or cam sensors as far as I know.

 

From the 95 FSM

10. Camshaft Position Sensor

A: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1) Disconnect connector from camshaft position sensor.

G2M0417

2) Remove camshaft position sensor from camshaft support

LH.

3) Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque:

6.4±0.5 N⋅m (0.65±0.05 kg-m, 4.7±0.4 ft-lb)

6. Crankshaft Position Sensor

A: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1) Remove bolt which install crankshaft position sensor to

cylinder block.

G2M0409

2) Remove crankshaft position sensor, and disconnect

connector from it.

G2M0408

3) Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque:

6.4±0.5 N⋅m (0.65±0.05 kg-m, 4.7±0.4 ft-lb)

It's that easy.

Dann, If you can't get it started, I'll bring my scanner up when I come early next week. I'm going to be up there doing some work with some friends and I'd be happy to come give you a hand. I'll be up there late on Sunday and I'll be there through at least Wednesday.

Around here the crank sensor often gets corroded in the hole pretty bad. Not uncommon for them to break during removal. Then it's a bit of a mess.

 

 

Don't know how much salt/chemicals you folks see.

 

May be worth spraying it days ahead if you can.

hi, thanks. I tested the sensors, crank, cam, ignition igniter (to the coil pack, and to the igniter), and got no juice/spark while cranking or otherwise. now if I am checking the crank sensor with the plug unattatched, how will it give me a .10 reading, or any reading at all? I also checked the wiring to the same sensor while attatched,and it gave no voltage reading, is the only source of spark/power the cpu, or "Could" all of this be from a faulty ignition switch? Or something like it??

 

Thanks Dann/plodder

are the battery and electrical connectors all golden?

 

to reiterate, the crank and cam sensors are in tight spots but really easy to replace. one 10mm bolt and out they come, cake.

 

i've never tested that stuff. fairtax said to use an analog meter, is that what you were using?

 

a google search gives us some subaru diagnostics for this:

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/electrical/ignition.pdf

 

more description here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116856&highlight=crank+sensor

 

picture of testing here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116157&highlight=crank+sensor

 

searching here and google makes you an ASE certified mechanic.

You have to unplug the sensors to test them. Across the terminals on the sensor you should get 1-4k Ω. With an analog meter test voltage across the terminals on the sensor while cranking the engine. You can also remove the sensor and wave a screwdriver or other metal object past the end of the sensor while testing to see if the needle on the meter moves.

 

searching here and google makes you an ASE certified mechanic.

You're probably right!

You have to unplug the sensors to test them. Across the terminals on the sensor you should get 1-4k Ω. With an analog meter test voltage across the terminals on the sensor while cranking the engine. You can also remove the sensor and wave a screwdriver or other metal object past the end of the sensor while testing to see if the needle on the meter moves.

 

 

Analog? No, I have a digital multi tester. Thanks for the links Gary,Golden?No clue...My car(wifes car, ) is twenty minutes away. I have no internet at home. So I will print up the link pages, but I am here now and will read a bit before I go. Thanks Danno

Analog? No, I have a digital multi tester.

It might work. I guess technically all you need to see is a blip in voltage as the engine turns. Most digital meters aren't sensitive enough to show the quick jumps that an analog meter will show. Analog meters are usually pretty cheap though. Doesn't hurt to try the digital and see what you get though!

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03482362000P?prdNo=23&blockNo=23&blockType=G23

Probably find an even cheaper one at wallyworld.

i've been told a digital won't show a signal like that. i'm sure it probably depends on the digital but i'm guessing what most folks have probably won't....if what others have told me holds true.

I do not have a check engine light on my dash, when I put the key into the "on" position.

It is fixed, It was a loosewire at the underside of the fuse box, the wire to the ecu.Thanks guys!!!!!!!

WOW, how in the world did you track that down, that sounds like a nightmare. Good job.

Awesome!