Goobysoobs Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 (edited) So as posted here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118201&page=2&highlight=goobysoobs my 90 Legacy has been having some issues where it felt like an automatic transmission when they start to slip, I did change the transmission oil to 80w-90 but that did not resolve the issue as I had hoped, and on Christmas Eve while traveling to pick up my nephews my clutch(hopefully) gave out. What happened was I was driving on a state hwy and i could not accelerate past 55 mph and when i slowed down and tried to get back up to 55 mph I had to get it to about 4k rpm. Then it just degraded from there to where I'd have to push it further (which i didn't) to accelerate until I could not go any more. So what I'm wondering is it just the clutch or is it the transmission as well? Thanks in advance Edited December 27, 2010 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 does not sound like transmission to me, sounds like something clutch related. what are the current symptoms - what does it do if you start it and try to drive it? is it loosing any engine oil? do you know what a bad clutch feels like - is it similar to that? a slipping clutch doesn't typically go bad that quickly - usually they start slipping and then gradually get worse if you baby it and drive cautiously, were you jamming and slamming it to make it move? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 (edited) It simply revs up and does not move, I was able to shift into other gears last time I tried (when it broke down) but haven't since... it didn't die out when I was at low speeds so it's like it's always depressed which on my old gl when it was like that (never tried shifting into higher gears) it was the clutch that went out. I was babying it for about 3 weeks or so as it would do it intermittently and was getting gradual but that was all in town driving and when I was going to pick 'em up I was kinda flooring it to be able to 60 mph but not going over 3500 rpm casue it's bad gas mileage hehe. ****EDIT***** So I went out there and started it up and tried the gears from a stand still up to fourth and it did not die out but I did not go any where. Also I noticed after I took off the e-brake I did not roll back.. now it's not a steep hill just about 1-1.5% gradient. Edited December 27, 2010 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 Clutch is shot. The only other thing in a subaru manual transmission that would cause that type of behavior is a borked center differential, and that wouldn't go slowly, or quietly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 27, 2010 Author Share Posted December 27, 2010 OK thanks, that takes a lot of worry out for me. Also on these EJ22's is it easier to take the tranny out to change the clutch or the engine? I know with my EA82 they said it was easier to just pull the engine (I ended up pulling the tranny before realizing this) but it was much smaller and lighter just wondering on anyone's preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 27, 2010 Share Posted December 27, 2010 If you have a lift. It's easier to pull the engine. There was a thread just a week or so ago with a good list of things that should be done along with the clutch. Somebody needs to make a "Clutch list" and put it in the FAQ thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted December 28, 2010 Author Share Posted December 28, 2010 Yeah I found that thread and it was pretty good starting point. Also in my other thread I had a mystery engine code and was never able to get the code from the engine so do you think the code was being thrown by the clutch or transmission? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 No, there isn't any type of electrical diagnostic for the clutch. It's all mechanical and the ECU doesn't have any way to tell if it's borked. Not on a car that old anyway. A few sensors on the transmission might make it throw a code, but again I think your car is too old to have any of them. OBD1 cars are easy to get codes from. I know threre's a thread or ten around here about how to do it. Something about plugging together two black connectors under the dash IIRC. Turn the ignition to ON and count the flashes of the engine light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 (edited) So a bit of an update it was the pilot bearing that went out just replaced the whole clutch and tomorrow we're gonna drop the engine in and hopefully be done with it! Edited January 7, 2011 by Goobysoobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Good luck. Careful in those flip flops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 hehe yeah the problem we came across today is getting the engine mount bolt into the mount hole seems cause of the angle of the engine (front is higher than the rear) that they wont line up, have tried to raise the transmission but didn't solve it. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 hehe yeah the problem we came across today is getting the engine mount bolt into the mount hole seems cause of the angle of the engine (front is higher than the rear) that they wont line up, have tried to raise the transmission but didn't solve it. any ideas? you have to jack up the trans so you can angle the engine down a little in the front. this will allow you to bolt it together and then lower it down. i put a block of wood under the front diff area just behind the cross member and lift. it helps if the dog bone is disconnected on top of the trans. how did you get it out without jacking up the trans??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 We did jack up the trans the trans and engine are connected we're now trying to get the engine mounts back onto the engine because at first we just unscrewed the nut on the bottom of the mount so the bolt kinda hung down but we weren't able to get that to go back in because of the angle it was like the engine and trans had to go back more which it couldn't. so then we just took the mounts off the engine and we're lining it up that way it's a lot better but still no dice the hole is lined up enough to grab the bolt but not enough to start the bolt and the passenger side is the same going in from the top its so very close but not quite... it's like engine is tilted to far forward to line up perfectly but raising the back end with a jack under the tranny isn't doing it... and lowering the engine all the way isn't lined up enough plus we cant move the engine at all haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 yeah, it's tricky. with the car wheels well blocked, and hand brake on, try moving the hoist a few inches closer to the car and while it is shoved in, put a small wedge behind the hoist wheels so it won't roll back out. that way it is lifting up and to the rear. then wiggle it. this may shift it enough on the rear trans mount to fit the bolt holes. how much are you missing by?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 less than an 1/8th of an inch lol. like I said enough to grab it but not to thread it and we moved the hole back and forth and such but it's like the mount is angling the bolt at such an angle (straight) that it wont thread cause the engine isn't flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 This is when a good 3ft prybar comes in handy. Get one mount bolt in the bracket just enough to put the nut on the end, then push the engine over with the pry bar until the second is able to drop in. Remember mounts are rubber, they can be persuaded with a little force. And almost aways easier to get a single stud in the middle of the mount to fall into the mount bracket, than to line up two or three holes on a bracket to try and get a bolt through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Oh yeah really that seems the best way to go now... spent so much time on that today and still didn't get one of the bolts so will probably spend some two hours getting one of them tomorrow (why do they need to hide them?! )... other than that the only thing left is the battery, the starter, and the two coolant hoses to the transaxle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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