i just got done rebuilding my EA82T and getting it in the car and everything, getting the timing just right, yadda yadda yadda. anyway, the problem is that when start the car the RPM's take off to 3000 and wont go down, i can rev up, but it wont rev down. what in the world is going on??? i have checked everything on the intake 6 times, and everything is hooked up like its supposed to be, and the RPM's just wont cooperate with me. i did drop the throttle body with cleaning off the old gasket, could that have anything to do with it??? i inspected the throttle body, and it didnt get damaged or anything. dropped from about 4 feet from my hands onto hard, cold, unforgiving concrete. but yeah. anyone have any idea what might be going on?

 

oh, 1988 Subaru GL-10 EA82 turbo

Edited January 16, 201115 yr by soobie_newbie67
still having issues, see last post

Throttle being held open?

 

Leaks in the intake hoses/pipes.

 

Idle screw adjusted very badly.

 

Timing over advanced.

3k needs air - find where the air is getting in and you find your problem.

 

GD

might have a hairline crack in the throttle body after it got dropped? did you try spraying carb cleaner around the throttle body, intake manifold, etc to see if rpms jumped?

might have a hairline crack in the throttle body after it got dropped? did you try spraying carb cleaner around the throttle body, intake manifold, etc to see if rpms jumped?

 

i didnt see any cracks when i was checking it out after the drop. i will try your idea today and see what happens.

If it's already running at 3k then chances are that carb cleaner, etc will not indicate much if anything. That is a trick used to find vacuum leaks at idle. At 3k it will not find anything.

 

GD

problem fixed. loose hose. its all good. thank you everyone.

alright, so i thought i had the RPM issue fixed, well i kinda have it fixed. i was wondering where that idle air control is cause i think that might be the problem. what do you think??? its idling at about 1500 rpm's now and i cant seem to get it to go down. any recommendations or ideas?

Edited January 16, 201115 yr by soobie_newbie67

bumping thread looking for help.

Lets play "how many acronyms can I get into one post?!"

 

Did you monkey with the IAC?

 

Have you checked the resisance of the CTS against the book spec?

 

Have you reset the TPS per the FSM procedure?

 

GD

Lets play "how many acronyms can I get into one post?!"

 

Did you monkey with the IAC?

 

Have you checked the resisance of the CTS against the book spec?

 

Have you reset the TPS per the FSM procedure?

 

GD

 

i cant seem to find the IAC on the car (i straight up dont know where it is and can NOT find it in the book)

 

whats CTS?

 

i didnt know you have to reset the throttle position sensor and i dont know what FSM stands for. (i suck at understanding these so called "acronyms")

i cant seem to find the IAC on the car (i straight up dont know where it is and can NOT find it in the book)

 

whats CTS?

 

i didnt know you have to reset the throttle position sensor and i dont know what FSM stands for. (i suck at understanding these so called "acronyms")

You don't KNOW all of the TLAs and FLATs??? (Three-Letter-Acronyms and Four-Letter-Acronyms-Too.)

 

FSM - Factory Service Manual. It is what the Dealer mechanics use, and is usually a multi-book set.

 

IAC - Idle Air Control valve. An electrically-controlled idle-circuit that is attached to the throttle-body.

 

CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor. A 2-wire sensor that tells the ECU (computer) the coolant's temp. NOT the same as the sender for the temp gauge.

 

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor. Attached to the end of the throttle-body's throttle shaft. On your engine, pretty much only tells ECU if throttle is closed, wide open, or anyplace inbetween.

 

Ignorance is not a crime. We are all ignorant of something. Knowing something and ACTING stupid is a different matter. Keep asking questions and trying to learn, and helpful people will continue to help. Things will not always work right, and things will break. It is how we learn.

 

Back on-topic...

 

(Edit: The following description of the IAC is inaccurate. Look for proper information further down or elsewhere. endedit.)

The IAC is attached to the side of the TB. There is a good-sized hose

(pinky-sized?) running to it. This is the supply for the idle air. Remove the hose and cover where the hose attached to the IAC with your finger or whatever, and note what happens to the idle speed.

 

Regarding the FSM, try checking out this webpage:

http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

Edited January 16, 201115 yr by NorthWet
bad info

thank you. but i still dont know if i found it. i guess im just that stupid. i found a "pinky-sized hose" that runs to the intake manifold below the throttle body then leads to this electrical thing on top of the thermostat, then runs to the intake plenum. then i also found a "pinky-sized hose" that runs to this little silver valve thats on the intake manifold thats right below throttle body, although im pretty sure that not it. god im so lost. pics would help me most, but im also able to work with very detailed descriptions.

 

oh, northwet, why couldnt i find the IAC in my haynes manual? i must have scoured the book twice and couldn't find it.

You can't find it probably because I described it incorrectly. I think that I confused it with the SPFI unit. My apologies.

 

I trudged through the mud to look at my 88 ea82t's intake. Th IAC is a vertical solenoid-like unit sticking straight up on the firewall side of the throttle-body, with 2 electrical wires sticking out the top. It looks like it gets its air from inside the TB's throat, immediately above the throttle plate. Not sure at the moment the best way to check it for leaks/proper operation.

 

(Do not take the term "stupid" to be meant for you. You know that there are some things that you need to learn and you are trying to learn them. No student is stupid.)

You can't find it probably because I described it incorrectly. I think that I confused it with the SPFI unit. My apologies.

 

I trudged through the mud to look at my 88 ea82t's intake. Th IAC is a vertical solenoid-like unit sticking straight up on the firewall side of the throttle-body, with 2 electrical wires sticking out the top. It looks like it gets its air from inside the TB's throat, immediately above the throttle plate. Not sure at the moment the best way to check it for leaks/proper operation.

 

(Do not take the term "stupid" to be meant for you. You know that there are some things that you need to learn and you are trying to learn them. No student is stupid.)

 

i was wondering what that was. maybe it just needs to be adjusted. i noticed an adjustment screw right underneath it. or should i leave that alone seeing as i dont even know what it does.??

 

also, how do i know if its working correctly or if its bad?

After nosing around, your IAC may be mostly a fast-idle-when-cold thing. The screw below it is probably the idle adjust.

 

Try checkint out ths thread for some info (not much) on adjusting the idle screw:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80868

 

You might also check the "IAC" (which might be mostly a heater element and a valve controlled by a bimetal spring) for electrical continuity. I don't have a resistance value for it.

sweet, thank you northwet. after i get my HLA's all figured out i'll try adjusting the idle. im having the same problem as the guy who made the post. my car is idling about 1200 to 1500 rpm after fully warmed up, so i bet this will fix it.

Well, it is a good place to start.

 

Are you getting rebuilt HLAs from Mizpah, or going a different route? I would strongly urge you to get the Subaru oil-passage seals.

Well, it is a good place to start.

 

Are you getting rebuilt HLAs from Mizpah, or going a different route? I would strongly urge you to get the Subaru oil-passage seals.

 

dont worry, i'll get the seals. and yes, im sending them in to get rebuilt, but not all of them. some of them actually pumped up and are doing their jobs, so far i have only found 1 that was truly bad. didnt pump up at all and the little rocker arm thing just sits there freely when the cam isnt pressing down to open the valve.

 

oh, but that was for the passenger side of the engine. i still have yet to check the drivers side.

dont worry, i'll get the seals. and yes, im sending them in to get rebuilt, but not all of them. some of them actually pumped up and are doing their jobs, so far i have only found 1 that was truly bad. didnt pump up at all and the little rocker arm thing just sits there freely when the cam isnt pressing down to open the valve.

 

oh, but that was for the passenger side of the engine. i still have yet to check the drivers side.

Unless you are on a really tight budget, I would do them all. I don't think that there is a simple bench test that will tell how they will react in use.

You need to have them all rebuilt. At $4.50 each.... why would you bother shipping them just some of them?

 

GD

Try pinching off that pinky sized hose that goes to the thermostat housing and back. That looks to be a cold engine air bypass. If that valve isn't closing it could lead to the high idle. If there's an air pocket still trapped in the cooling system, that could make the valve not close. This is just from me looking at my EA82t.

 

Don't wongleflute with idle speed adjustment screws, they're throttle plate stop settings, not idle adjustments. Once dicked with, they're a pita to get back to spec.

There should be an IAC adjusment somewhere that *can* be changed. At least there is on the SPFI's..... I thought there was on the turbo as well....

 

In any case you really shouldn't be messing with settings like that if it ran fine before you took it apart. If you haven't removed any of those devices then something else has changed. Better to find out what has changed and work toward a solution than to just turn screws and move hoses in a futile attempt to make it function.

 

GD

There should be an IAC adjusment somewhere that *can* be changed. At least there is on the SPFI's..... I thought there was on the turbo as well....

 

In any case you really shouldn't be messing with settings like that if it ran fine before you took it apart. If you haven't removed any of those devices then something else has changed. Better to find out what has changed and work toward a solution than to just turn screws and move hoses in a futile attempt to make it function.

 

GD

 

there are 2 issues with this. i dont know how it ran before i bought it. i bought it used, and the guy had taken it apart cause he blew the headgasket. when i found the crack in cylinder #3, i just completely gave up on the engine that was in it and used that one i bought from the junk yard when i wanted to do that swap on my '87 GL. i have no clue how either of them ran when i made the purchases. i wish i live near one of you people so i could get professional help.

Feel the burn of the EA82T yet? :cool:

 

Yep - now you know why we hate them. You are already on engine #2 and the "I can't make it run right" tantrums are starting.

 

Growing up and learning the hard way sucks. You should really listen to those of us that have been there and given up on that POS.

 

A wise man learns from the mistakes of others...

 

A smart man learns from his own mistakes....

 

A foolish man never learns at all.

 

GD