Suba9792 Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 So A while back GD did the t-belt job on the Legacy, it was obvious the radiator has a slight clog and the AC fan was not coming on....so Yesterday we put in a new used confirmed good one and the radiator took the fluid no prob. We then let it get to operating temp so the fan would kick on worked great, then tried to get the AC fan on and nothing! do they run on some kind of secondary system because I just can see why two of them would not work, GD was thinking there could be a bad wire somewhere. Any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 There are separate fuses for the main cooling fan and the sub cooling fan. There are also 4 (?) relays. Check both fuses first. If they keep blowing, you may have a faulty (shorted) fan motor. Good luck, Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 I'll check that out, I was also thinking that it may be the auxiliary fan control, but start with the cheapest first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 You have to see if the fans are getting power and a command to turn on. You can use a power probe on the wires, I believe. If they are getting a command to turn on but aren't turning on then you might have a bad fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 The way this Sube environments work was mystery to me. I came from very basic vehicles w/o AC. My contention is that there is a subsystem to prevent engine overheat. My Legacy upon purchase had a leaking waterpump yet didn't overheat because the AC fan was going on all the time. Having the manual then I found the main fan had a pinched connection so the AC fan had defaulted to run. Then everything was normal with the main one until winter and the AC one is the one running. I read here due to inquiry that the settings like heat(er cntl vlv)+ windshield + whatever means DEFROST and the compressor and fan goes on...which seems odd when it's freezing but it works. I never have the dreaded internal fog for long. So there is a lot of interaction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 Yeah I'm stumped on this one, the odds of two bad fans just seems to not be the case, I'm leaning towards a fuse and or this auxiliary fan control that I saw on partsgeek.com. who knows but its winter(more like a real wet fall) and its not hot out so no AC is no biggie. But Its going to get under my skin as well as the mystery clunk in the rear which I'm 75%sure its the rear diff mount and links etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Share Posted January 21, 2011 I have the fog on real cold mornings, no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Perhaps you're not following what I said. I'm not trying to complicate the earlier advice to check relays and fuses. You can very easily detach the connectors under either fan and put your alligator clips or whatever female spade conns to + and - battery and verify they run. During this you may find part of a connector bent or a wire pinched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzpile Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Once that has been established then the subset of redundant fan cooling network can be investigated further. or just forget it like i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 We need to see if there is power getting to the fan. The ECU or some relay/fuse setup should be giving it ground signal to run which obviously isn't happenening unless there's some kind of temperature setting that we are not reaching in this cold weather. I doubt we have two bad fans in a row. Since it needed a radiator and I had a direct replacement with fewer miles on it we just swapped the entire assembly. I've seen bad fans before and figured that was probably the case here. But it does seem to be electrical or your system is setup with a different temp set points, etc. If we have power at the fan then it's down to seeing if we have a ground signal and checking fuses/relays. That can take time - more than we had the day we installed it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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