I was told this morning that my 1996 2.5L Outback Legacy Wagon needs a new rear differential. I want to avoid the buying an expensive part and I already have a 1996 Outback Impreza that I would like to use for parts.

 

Can I use the rear differential from my 96 Outback Impreza (hatchback) in my Outback Legacy Wagon from the same year? ...are any other parts okay to interchange?

 

I'm new in this forum, but I've read a lot of great posts today so I'm hoping the you can help me with this question! Thanks!

Edited January 26, 201115 yr by Alex28

Compare the codes on the transmission (sticker on the bell-housing) with this chart:

 

http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart

 

If they use the same final drive ratio - then yes.

 

Otherwise no.

 

They are a dime a dozen at junk yards and never fail - don't buy a new one. Should be able to pick one up for $50 or less.

 

I know the OBW is a 4.111 (for a manual transmission). I am not sure what the Imp. would be.

 

GD

a 96 impreza obs auto trans should be a 4.11, the 5 speed is a 3.9.

 

why do you need a rear diff.?

 

who said you need one?

 

i agree that the rear diffs rarely fail, but it seems like the price is always more than $50.

My 96 Legacy Wagon (automatic) makes loud knock sounds on any turns. The gearshift works but it "jumps" as you switch gears. I've been told by one mechanic that I need a new transmission and another that my trans is fine. I was also told that I need a new rear differential, then another mechanic told me that I don't.

 

I recently removed the rear drive shaft and the sound went away, but this leaves me with no 4WD, so I put it back in and the grinding/knocking on any right or left turns came back.

 

I guess the least expensive option is to take out the rear drive shaft again and don't fix anything. Will this be a problem long-term? Will it wear out any other parts?

My 96 Legacy Wagon (automatic) makes loud knock sounds on any turns. The gearshift works but it "jumps" as you switch gears. I've been told by one mechanic that I need a new transmission and another that my trans is fine. I was also told that I need a new rear differential, then another mechanic told me that I don't.

 

I recently removed the rear drive shaft and the sound went away, but this leaves me with no 4WD, so I put it back in and the grinding/knocking on any right or left turns came back.

 

I guess the least expensive option is to take out the rear drive shaft again and don't fix anything. Will this be a problem long-term? Will it wear out any other parts?

 

 

it sounds like you have torque bind. not a bad diff.

there is a fuse holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall behind the strut tower. it's black about the size of a zippo lighter and it should have FWD printed on the top.

 

open it and stick in any spare fuse, amps do not matter. then test drive the car. two things should happen, there should be a red FWD light on the dash and the problem should be gone. the car is now driving in front wheel drive, not all wheel drive.

 

for more info search "torquebind" and read up. this is a $1000 fix at the dealer.

 

try it and get back to us.

Edited January 27, 201115 yr by johnceggleston

X2 on Torque bind.

About the only way the rear diff fails on these is if it springs a leak and gets driven with no fluid.

Shifter "popping" is probably loose shift cable.

for more info search "torquebind" and read up. this is a $1000 fix at the dealer.

I've had very good luck with multiple transmission fluid changes fixing the torque bind problem if it goes away with the FWD fuse in.

 

I understand that you can get burs in the clutch basket that cause it to bind and you may need to tear down the transfer housing, but most of the time fresh fluid will restore proper operation.

 

$45 for 3 gallons of DexMerc III and draining and filling a few times is a lot cheaper and easier than pulling the transfer housing.

 

If the AT temp light flashes 16 times when you start the car, and the binding continues with the FWD fuse inserted, then you have to pull the transfer housing and replace the duty C soleniod.

This is a transfer clutch issue in the transmission.

 

not a bad rear diff.

 

Search "torque bind"