When reinstalling a 2.5L DOHC, is it easier to leave the 2 studs ( actually double-ended lower block to bellhousing bolts, not the alignment pins) attached to the block or take them out?

I make sure they are there.

 

Those 2 lower points are how I line things up, make sure the engine angle is correct before sliding back to the trans.

 

 

Did you seal the baffle plate?

 

If an auto are you CERTAIN the torque converter is seated (search here for info on this).

Oil separator plate is sealed and bolts tightened/locktightened. The TC never moved when I pulled the engine and it won't move back any more when I try to push it back. I've pushed and rotated and it seems like it is as far back as it's gonna go. I guess I'll know when the crankcase and bellhousing meet up and tell me it needs a little more.

 

I was concerned that the bolts, if left in, would bend or crack the flange on the back of the engine, but then again, getting the studs in tight after the fact might be an issue. I do know the transmission is going to need to come up pretty far for the engine to clear everything and match up. A slow hand on the cherry picker will be key.

You should already have a jack supporting the tranny.

 

Jack up the tranny some to assist (make sure pitch stopper has been removed). Between this and a "balancing bar" on the cherry picker and you should be good to go.

 

Tranny is a bit of a weird shape to set on jack, a block of wood helps but still kinda dainty. Someday I may make something better that is a big U or somthing wraps around the sides of the tranny and doesn't move.

Here is a video about removing/installing an ea82. although a different engine, the procedure will be the same for bolting up the bellhousing.

 

 

Watch episodes #2,#3, and #11

You should already have a jack supporting the tranny.

 

Jack up the tranny some to assist (make sure pitch stopper has been removed). Between this and a "balancing bar" on the cherry picker and you should be good to go.

 

Tranny is a bit of a weird shape to set on jack, a block of wood helps but still kinda dainty. Someday I may make something better that is a big U or somthing wraps around the sides of the tranny and doesn't move.

 

Yeah, I heard some guys advise removing the Y-pipe and unfortunately that looks like what I'll have to do to get a good grip in the tranny at a safe jacking location. THX

Just put a 2x4 or some other block of wood under the trans pan at the front corner of the pan. It will jack right up without damaging the pan.

 

The engine studs are great guide pins as you go together.

 

The TC will rub against the starter gear if it's all the way seated and should pull forward about an 1/8 when you bolt it to the flex plate.

 

It's easier to start all of the TC bolts from the bottom while the engine and trans are bolted together and still lifted up.

Just put a 2x4 or some other block of wood under the trans pan at the front corner of the pan. It will jack right up without damaging the pan.

 

 

It's easier to start all of the TC bolts from the bottom while the engine and trans are bolted together and still lifted up.

 

I put a jack under the diff, never tried further back. Makes sense the diff is weird shaped, pan is flat.

 

I always do the TC bolts from the top myself. For one thing to remove them if that access plate is actually still on there its a bit of a pain to remove.

 

Someday perhaps I'll try the TC bolts form the bottom. I do know several folks that do them that way.