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How Do You Decode Transmission Numbers?

Featured Replies

There is a white label on the bellhousing of the front differential with a long alpha-numeric identification number, and I'm wondering how to use it to figure out some information.

 

The front diff in my wife's 01 Forester S has a bad bearing (was told it sounds like the pinion bearing). Buying a whole new (used) transmission is a lot cheaper than having the front diff rebuilt, so that's what I did. However...like a typical novice, I failed to notice some details before I got the thing all the way home. It's supposed to have been taken out of a 2000 Forester, but it lacks the external filter that everything '99-'07 seems to be equipped with. It has the casting, but the center of it has a plug that looks like it has been there since the transmission was new. I just want to make sure this thing will work in the '01 Forester.

 

The number on the "new" transmission is TZ1B4ZMDAA-RR, with a second tag showing a shorter number, 429856.

 

I want to know if this transmission is going to be compatible electronically, and if the final drive gear ratio matches my rear diff. I'm hoping there's a way to tell that from the numbers on the transmission. I tried calling my local Subaru dealer with the numbers, but they said there was nothing they could do with them...they just wanted the car's VIN number. I emailed Subaru of America, but haven't heard back from them yet. Online searches haven't turned up anything useful.

 

If this transmission was sold to me under false pretenses, and it's actually an older one out of a Legacy, Imprezza, or 98 Forester, will it work in my car?

 

Thanks!

  • Author

Well, I have to wait for the wife to drive the car home from class tonight before I can get you the other number...but your parts site gave some bad news, unless I get lucky.....the transmission apparently came out of a B12 Legacy with an H6 engine.

 

Still no indication about the gear ratios, though.

 

Does the fact that it's a phase II trans mean that it will be electronically compatible?

Edited by Camaro98

Still no indication about the gear ratios, though.

 

Does the fact that it's a phase II trans mean that it will be electronically compatible?

 

it should be, yes. if the wire connector matches the one in the car it should work.

 

check the ring and pinion ratio. it would be listed in ''train'' section. if that matches the one in your car then it ''should'' work.

 

where did you get the trans? how much??

 

any warranty ?

  • Author
it should be, yes. if the wire connector matches the one in the car it should work.

 

check the ring and pinion ratio. it would be listed in ''train'' section. if that matches the one in your car then it ''should'' work.

 

where did you get the trans? how much??

 

any warranty ?

 

I'm not following you on the "train" section....train section where? Here on the forum? Something on the transmission?

 

I got the trans from a guy on Craigslist for $250, no warranty. 110k; he swore up and down that it shifted well and always had its oil changes. I emailed him...but I don't expect to hear back from him. I have the sinking feeling that I've been duped, given the apparent lie on the application.

Yeah the Final Drive Ratio is more important than if it has the filter. You can add a filter inline with the trans cooler if you want to. The FDR needs to match what your rear differential has or it will tear up the clutches in the transfer unit.

 

From what I can find, your Forester S should have the 4.44 FDR. The trans you bought has 4.11. If that's the case it won't work.

If you can, post the trans number from your Forester.

  • Author

You're right about the the gear numbers; those are the same ones I got. My transmission code is TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8. I found a salvage yard nearby today that has a transmission with matching numbers for $690.00. 124k miles.

 

The seller of the incorrect transmission I bought seems to be ignoring me. Looks like I am going to have to re-sell this transmission if I want to recapture any of the money I spent on it. So much for avoiding the high prices at the salvage yards. Life lesson learned.:(

Did you check Car-part.com?

 

You might be able to sell it here. Try putting it in the classified section.

Edited by Fairtax4me

  • Author

I may have to try that. I've never sold something so large online, though....how would I ship the transmission after someone bought it?

Just list it as pickup only, unless someone is really willing to pay for freight to get it. Shipping engines/transmissions is more of a PITA than it's worth in the end. But there are plenty of members here in the New England region. Someone may happen to need one with that FDR and be willing to come get it.

  • Author

That's what I'll do, then. I'll list it both on the site you suggested and back on craigslist. Thanks for the direction!

  • 7 years later...

I have a transmission, #TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8 , I am trying to decode so I can answer questions in regards to selling it.  Any assist will be thanked.

 

Thank you and best regards.

SubaTrans_0.jpg

According to parts.subaru.com that transmission number crosses to Subaru Part Number31000AD890

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__Forester-S-25L-AT/49239512__6021990/AT--TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY/S10-150-01.html

It's used on Forester 1999, 2000 and 2001

https://parts.subaru.com/p/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY-TZ1A3ZC2AA/49239512/31000AD890.html

you could check opposedforces.com to see if they give the Final Drive Ratio (I can't access it using company firewall).

It may work on other vehicles but I don't have that information

 

On 2/3/2011 at 7:18 PM, Camaro98 said:

You're right about the the gear numbers; those are the same ones I got. My transmission code is TZ1A3ZC2AA-P8. I found a salvage yard nearby today that has a transmission with matching numbers for $690.00. 124k miles.

I know it's not much compared to having it rebuilt (I was quoted $2500 CDN), but pretty dear compared to the self-serve yards here.

Spring '17 I replaced the 4EAT in my '99 Forester - found an exact match in the boneyard.  It was a rough afternoon dropping it on my own (I'd had a major rotator cuff repair - graft - only a few months before and was trying really hard not to trash it, and it was a blazing hot/dry day and I'd forgotten my water bottle...), but it cost $135 ($100 USD today) and worked a champ - until the car was nailed by a deer a year later.

 

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