As I understand it the steering column and dash are in the way of me getting the heater box out. Any pointers beyond what haynes gives? The book says I need to drain the ac, but a search revealed some say I do not need to. Any thoughts about the ac or any other part of this procedure?

 

del

You're in for a fun job, it's not really difficult, just time consuming. The steering column doesn't need to be removed, just dropped. There are two 12mm bolts that hold it up under the dash. When you pull those two it will drop the column down. As for the AC, in order to get the heater box out containing the heater core, you have to pull the AC evaporator out. To do so you will need to remove the AC lines that travel through the firewall on the passengers side.

is the heater core in the same spot for most of the 2nd and 3rd gens?

Lordy.

 

I'd rather have a head gasket failure. I am really surprised to see a car of your age with a heater core failure. How did you discover that it failed?

Generally, they are in the same location. But the 3rd gens are really stuck inside the heater box. They have a bunch of screws and then you need to split the whole box in half (make sure you don't miss any screws, the box is easy to break). It's basically the same process except I think the 3rd gens are easier.

Lordy.

 

I'd rather have a head gasket failure. I am really surprised to see a car of your age with a heater core failure. How did you discover that it failed?

 

On mine, I had a bit of a sweet smell and crud on the windshield in my '03, was living with it, got a flush at the dealer and it got worse, was not looking forwards to the job (they also want 50 bucks to drain&recycle the refrigerant, like that's gonna happen), then it just stopped leaking. Hoping it does not start when it warms up again.

 

 

Dave

Yes, a heater core failure nearly always will leave you with a nice coolant smell in the car, and a fogged up windshield when you turn the heater on.

And Durania,

I'd much rather do any other job on the car except for the heater core. I've had to do 5 the whole time I've been working on Subaru's. Like I said, it's really a pretty easy job, just time consuming, and a pain in the rump roast to find all of the hidden bolts

There are two bolts behind this (air bag) cover, according to the book. How do you take it off? The cover.

 

Yes when you ran the heater there was an unpleasant sweet smell. The steering column is just disconnected from the dash and laid on the floor.

 

Thank you folks

del

Edited February 12, 201115 yr by del
clarification

Pull the entire glove compartment assembly out and look up, you'll see them.

:banana::banana:

 

Got the dash off and the heater core out. See if I can get the part on Monday. I got lucky and did not drain the AC.

 

Thanks for the help.

del

jebus... how long did it take to get the dash out?

jebus... how long did it take to get the dash out?

Three days (3 days at two hours each, about six hours), I am sure somebody who knew what they were doing could do it in a lot less.

 

del

I found a new heater core. Bad news the new core requires I reuse the inlet tubes and the gaskets are dealer items, only the dealer sells them with the heater core for fifty more. Any ideas on getting the gaskets?

 

del

I really doubt you'll find those anywhere else but the dealer

I just did a search with my wholesale account at Performance Radiator.

 

They show that part (Heater core)interchanges in a ton of other cars including:

2001 Nissan Xterra with 2.4 or 3.3L engine

Acura CL or TL from 2000

1997 Infiniti QX4

 

I think I would try the Acura or Nissan dealer and see if they have a gasket for it. I can get the PS Pump Bearing for a Subaru from Nissan with a cross reference part number I use for example, but Subaru doesn't sell the bearing.

I just did a search with my wholesale account at Performance Radiator.

 

They show that part (Heater core)interchanges in a ton of other cars including:

2001 Nissan Xterra with 2.4 or 3.3L engine

Acura CL or TL from 2000

1997 Infiniti QX4

 

I think I would try the Acura or Nissan dealer and see if they have a gasket for it. I can get the PS Pump Bearing for a Subaru from Nissan with a cross reference part number I use for example, but Subaru doesn't sell the bearing.

Good to know, thank you.

 

del

A little update; nissan does not carry the gaskets either, but we found o-rings that sealed the part. Passed a leak test, an advantage of buying from a radiator shop. Now if the weather will hold (warmer would be nice) I will start putting this in tomorrow.

 

del

I shouldn't have even posted in this thread, a car came in this morning and I got stuck doing a heater core also, haha. '99 Outback.

I shouldn't have even posted in this thread, a car came in this morning and I got stuck doing a heater core also, haha. '99 Outback.

Just out curiosity how many hours are given for that job (flat rate).

 

del

Well, I was curious too, today I looked it up. We use the Snap-On ShopKey5 program, which I think all the times come from Mitchell's. For a B tech the allotted time was 4.1 hours. It took me around 5 hours for the whole job, which is honestly the best time I've done it in, everything actually went really smooth.

Got the heater box back in and the AC box bolted down. The drain tube for the AC got out of place, what a PITA to get that to straighten out.

 

My thoughts on not discharging the AC, while it is possible to replace the heater core without, it is NOT a time saver. Taking it apart is easy enough, going back together is an exercise in frustration, and loosening the AC lines so you can move the entire box over.

 

del

you know what sucks.. is when the damn AC lines bind up.. my line from the dryer from the evaporator did that.. that little short pipe is like $96....