I bought a tranny(a year ago) from a regular Legacy--doesn't work in my outback-- Will the oil pan and solenoids work on the Outback tranny I bought yesterday with a dented pan?

What else should I do to the new(used) tranny I'm about to put in. For gaskets,seals,o-rings? I

 

It's a 98 Leg-O 2.5 auto. Thanks

I bought a tranny(a year ago) from a regular Legacy--doesn't work in my outback-- Will the oil pan and solenoids work on the Outback tranny I bought yesterday with a dented pan?

What else should I do to the new(used) tranny I'm about to put in. For gaskets,seals,o-rings? I

 

It's a 98 Leg-O 2.5 auto. Thanks

 

yes, the parts will interchange. the assemblies are the same except for the front section closest to the engine with the differential in it. the ring and pinion are different.

 

the rear extension housing with the AWD transfer clutch in it may be sellable. you will have 2 of them to sell, assuming you don't have torque bind.

Edited February 12, 201115 yr by johnceggleston

I bought a tranny(a year ago) from a regular Legacy--doesn't work in my outback--

what years are we working with here? 1990 and 2010 legacy trans are not interchangeable.

 

Will the oil pan and solenoids work on the Outback tranny I bought yesterday with a dented pan?

regular verses outback won't be a problem swapping those parts. the years might cause issue.

 

What else should I do to the new(used) tranny I'm about to put in. For gaskets,seals,o-rings? I

 

It's a 98 Leg-O 2.5 auto. Thanks

I'd replace the torque converter seal, the graphite-like bushing/seal that goes around the torque converter shaft (Subaru only item), and the rear seal the driveshaft slides through.

The legacy trans is from a 97 L and the outback is from a 98. Mine is a 98 with no torgue bind ---just a noisy front diff. Nice To know I've got some good useable parts.---Thanks-Trev

I also need to be directed to a thread concerning flex plate to TC alignment and proper TC insertion. Is is just a matter of seating the key on the end of the tube way down in there? That long skinny center shaft felt like it settled waayyy down in too. Does the TC and the FP have to line up a certain way?

yeah nearly everything should be indentical then between those trans. you can physically swap them actually if you get a matching rear differential to match the lower 4.11 gear ratio of the L trans. it'll plug and play and work just fine.

 

as for TC and FP line up, just make sure when you attach the engine and trans there's a gap between the FP and TC - they should NOT touch when the engine and trans are fully seated together. installing the FP to TC bolts should "draw them together" so to speak. if the plate touches before the engine trans do then it's not fully seated.

 

there's no concerns on orientation between the FP and TC, doesn't matter so long as all the bolt holes line up.

Dented oil pan cut the thin blue wire. What do you splice wire with in the tranny?

Dented oil pan cut the thin blue wire. What do you splice wire with in the tranny?

 

Wow that's crazy, that's like two threads like this in a week and it's the first time I've ever heard of it. The other guy just spliced in new solenoid or two as well and didn't say anything so I'm assuming he didn't do anything special.

 

I would just solder it and shrink wrap it. I would avoid electrical tape.

I've got the metal pin out of the plastic plug piece and I have enough slack to strip and attach the same wire. Does anyone know if the metal MALE plug piece is available?

I would just solder it and shrink wrap it. I would avoid electrical tape.

So twist it up and drop some solder on it after sliding a piece of tiny shrink tube? then slide the tube over the solder and shrink.

I suppose I could get any old connector and replace both ends? What's the big deal as long as it's connected?

as for TC and FP line up, just make sure when you attach the engine and trans there's a gap between the FP and TC - they should NOT touch when the engine and trans are fully seated together. installing the FP to TC bolts should "draw them together" so to speak. if the plate touches before the engine trans do then it's not fully seated.

 

there's no concerns on orientation between the FP and TC, doesn't matter so long as all the bolt holes line up.

 

 

I seated the TC in the tranny a few times. It seems like when it's all the way in---Any of the four ears on the TC are 1\4 inch ahead of the flat mating surface on the tranny. Can anyone verify a diffinitive measurement on this??

I played around with a legacy auto tranny and torque converter at a wrecking yard recently. The motor was gone, so it was really accessible. I can tell you for certain, I was able to seat the TQ so the bolt ears were at least 3/8" aft of the mating surface. This is my only experience with seating a Legacy TQ.