March 9, 201115 yr ok, so a while ago, I posted a thread that my dad's 88 gl was eating timing belts. We thought we had solved it (chunks of old belt in idler). We checked all the pulleys, very smooth, no seizing. Well, the next day, I was driving it to school, and when I came up to a stop light, it lost oil pressure. Now, it's been doing this recently at idle, but when you rev it up, it comes back. I know it wasn't just the gauge, because it went from ticking on one cylinder, to all of them. As I was going up a hill, even letting the gears run higher, it didn't come back. Next, it squeals and dies, just as I crested the hill. Coasted it over to a side street, and turned the started to confirm my suspicion. Timing belt gone... again. What could be causing this? At first I thought the oil was unrelated, but now I think they're linked. Could the oil pump have seized, or just quit working, and stopped the cam in it's bearings? Help please.
March 9, 201115 yr maybe there is slack in the oil pump shaft, and the belt is walking around on the pulley. Have you replaced any pulleys? the belt residues on the tensioner could be clue to seizure once it warms up, or drag on the belt causing it to break, and residue from the resulting heat. i would start by suspecting the tensioners or the idler pulley. spin them. if they rattle like skateboard wheels, get new ones.
March 9, 201115 yr What could be causing this? At first I thought the oil was unrelated, but now I think they're linked. Could the oil pump have seized, or just quit working, and stopped the cam in it's bearings? Help please. If the oil pump seized, that would stop the belt. I'd say pull the pump out and inspect it. Reseal the snout of the pump (small shaft seal), and install new "mickey mouse" gasket and O-ring.
March 9, 201115 yr if they're getting any fluids on it then that's the problem. i installed a new belt that didn't even last 10,000 miles on a friends car that was leaking oil badly and getting on the belt. i'd turn everything over by hand that affects that belt - the oil pump and all the pulleys. next focus on the cam shaft and see if it's got any abnormal resistance (compare to the passengers side).
March 9, 201115 yr Play in the oil pump shaft. Idlers that are seizing or dragging. A camshaft will not seize and release. How many miles are you getting between failures? Have you checked the crank as well? Are you feeling any type of vibration or wobble while driving?
March 10, 201115 yr Author I didn't think so on the camshaft. As far as checking the pulleys, I'll have to wait since the car isn't at my house. Qman: less than 100 miles the first one. Less than 30 the second.
March 10, 201115 yr Wow, not many then. Check pulleys for damage and sharp edges or burrs that come into contact with the belts.
March 10, 201115 yr if they're getting any fluids on it then that's the problem. i installed a new belt that didn't even last 10,000 miles on a friends car that was leaking oil badly and getting on the belt. i'd turn everything over by hand that affects that belt - the oil pump and all the pulleys. next focus on the cam shaft and see if it's got any abnormal resistance (compare to the passengers side). +1 for fluids shortening belt life. Another thing to check would be the power steering pump for leaks - its right above the belts and when it leaks it will drip straight onto the passenger side belt if you don't have the timing belt covers on. I have seen two belts go out like that when the PS fitting (17mm into 19mm piece right up front) was cross threaded and leaking.
March 10, 201115 yr +1 for fluids shortening belt life. Another thing to check would be the power steering pump for leaks - its right above the belts and when it leaks it will drip straight onto the passenger side belt if you don't have the timing belt covers on. I have seen two belts go out like that when the PS fitting (17mm into 19mm piece right up front) was cross threaded and leaking. Sure, if the belt lasted 10K, not 100 miles and 30 miles. And, his problem is related to the drivers side as well.
March 10, 201115 yr Author ya, passenger side has been fine every time. It's only the drivers side. And there was a Minor oil leak, but we changed the seals, and no more leak. I didn't changes the belts this last time, but the guy who did checked for sharp spots when he was picking out the teeth of the belt. I'm really thinking it has something to do with the oil pump, because both times, it was having oil pressure problems, second time being worse.
March 10, 201115 yr Fair enough, it would take a decent distance for it to snap from being weakened merely by fluids. In my experience (albeit limited) the drivers side tends to snap easier than the passenger...but...Qman...how did you know it was his drivers side that keeps going? I don't see that specific info in this post.
March 11, 201115 yr Fair enough, it would take a decent distance for it to snap from being weakened merely by fluids. In my experience (albeit limited) the drivers side tends to snap easier than the passenger...but...Qman...how did you know it was his drivers side that keeps going? I don't see that specific info in this post. the title of the thread says it all: Re: eating more drivers side timing belts
March 12, 201115 yr I would have changed the oil pump while I was in there for a timing belt in the first place (along with all the front seals and pullies and stuff)
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