My original front windshield never leaked a drop but it was cracked badly all the way across. I kept getting hassled about it so I had Seattle Auto Glass put a new one in. It leaked at the corners right after they did it and the metal frame was good at that time. They also screwed up my chrome. Well, they have a lifetime warranty so I called them back - they came out with some sealer (still leaks). I called them back a third time and now they are out of business:rolleyes:

 

Ok, fast forward to now, tired of having wet carpet every time it rains and I just scored a PERFECT set of windshield chrome. Does anyone know of a shop in the Seattle - Lynnwood area that can pull out the windshield and fix it right? Leaving the car for as long as they need it is no problem. I don't want another "Mobile" guy if I can help it.

 

Thanks for any advice.

Did they replace the weatherstrip? It won't stop leaking untel you use a new weather strip, FHI still makes them. Not cheap but at 75 bucks well worth the expense.

Yes at the time they did. This was a while ago so it will need another one again, as well as a windshield if they break it taking it out.

If you find a decent reputable shop, they should be able to yank the windshield out without breaking/cracking it. I had an '86 3-door a long time ago and was pretty much dealing with the same issues you are... other than the whole out of business thing.

 

They may be able to salvage the current weatherstripping, maybe. I got lucky when I had to replace the windshield on the '83 Brat I owned; they were able to save it and reuse it.

 

Now you got me kinda worried; I'm having a "mobile installer" replace the XT's windshield on Monday

I am finally trying to fix this. As near as I can tell this is where the water on the passenger side floorboard was getting in.

 

 

This is what it looks like with the windshield out (I managed to get it out without breaking it:D)

 

Here is the drivers side. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. At least there is still some metal there.

Edited June 3, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

These (drain holes?) were completely plugged up with old sealer and debris.

 

You can see where the person that removed it last time cut the paint with a blade. It looks like this is what started some of the rust.

 

Here it is after some cleaning up.

 

Now, after POR 15 Marine Clean, Metal Ready Prep, and POR 15 Silver.

 

and the other side

Edited June 3, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

A few more shots showing the rest of the window channel. Hopefully this will do for a while.

 

 

 

 

A couple last thoughts. I should go over the POR 15 with something. The directions say it is not UV safe. I also have to try and figure out how to blend this mess in with the rest of the paint so it doesn't look too bad. Painting the whole car was not part of the plan right now:D

 

Thoughts, or criticisms?

Edited May 19, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

Here is the latest update. Obviously I am not a body guy, but it shouldn't rust and it will look a lot better than it did. I'm thinking I want a glass person to put the windshield back in though. Now I need to find some 392 Lightning Silver.

 

 

 

 

 

I read somewhere that the rope in style windshields seal better using butyl tape between the gasket and the body. Any thoughts on this? Also, does urethane sealer or anything go in between the glass and the rubber gasket?

Edited June 3, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

It's coming along slowly. I learned the hard way NEVER use cheap 5 year old masking tape:D It's well worth the few extra dollars for the good stuff. Here are some shots of progress from the last few mornings work. I haven't done this before so I am learning as I go. Although it's just rattle cans, it's still pretty rewarding to see it start to look nice. Blending the new paint in with the old sure took some trial and error.

 

 

 

 

What a HUGE mess this makes, protection for your lungs should be a must too.

Edited June 1, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

What did you use to remove the rust.... angle grinder or like sand paper, I have the same leek and rust in the windshield well

What did you use to remove the rust.... angle grinder or like sand paper, I have the same leek and rust in the windshield well

 

I used an angle die grinder like this

 

 

With this Roloc adapter to hold the discs

 

 

I used the Scotch Brite pads like these

 

 

But if I had to do it again I might choose these, it would probably take a lot less of them. I went through a bunch of the Scotch Brite pads but I didn't want to take a chance of sanding through and creating any more damage.

 

 

The windshield went in this morning and it turned out really nice. The guy that put it in really new his stuff on older installs like this. I'll update with a couple more pics soon. I moved it outside today and it rained for a while right after. So far it's dry inside but I'll leave the dash out for at least one more good rain just to be sure.

Good to hear the your leek has been sealed, would a grinder like this work

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28110-2-Inch-Small-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339135810&sr=1-2

It might, but IMO that is probably overkill for the small spaces and tight corners. Also, I think a grinding disk would cut through that area like butter. I would probably opt for a wire brush attachment if you are using something like that. I also did lots of hand wet sanding with a this (U-POL High #5) after the POR-15 treatment.

 

 

After a week of rain on and off it's dry inside for the first time in years! It looks like I can finally put half decent carpet inside it now:clap:

[ATTACH]9910[/ATTACH]

I'm starting to put the dash back together. I replaced the foam strips inside under the windshield and most of the worn out foam in and around the HVAC units. I also replaced the heater core and the heater control valve. I added a factory AC evap unit so I can hook up AC at a later date.

I'm also going to take the time to sort out and clean up some of the wiring related to the EJ22 swap and the center diff lock (on the floor - right side) while the dash is still out. I am seriously considering moving the engine controller to the passenger side.

Edited July 8, 201213 yr by Crazyeights

Seems like a good thread to point out to everyone that over time the old style pull in rubber screen seals will shrink so always organise a new one before pulling a screen as they will always leak after being disturbed and a new rubber that seals stops the rust from occuring in the first place.