PAJ Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Yo. I'm swapping out my 4EAT tranny pan that came with a nasty gash in it with the one off my old 4eat boat anchor and can't for the life of me find the torque specs for all those little 10mm bolts. It can't be much since they were wayyy too easy to remove. I'm not complaining. It's great to finally remove bolts that don't snap on me or require a 1/2" drive and a cheater bar. So I'm all set up with my Ultra Gray and have the mating surfaces nice and clean (mostly anyway) so all I need is the number. How much do you guys spread on anyway? Left on my own I'll tend to slather too much on and likely get it all over the insides of the pan. I also found it strange that after only 2000 miles on this trans the new fluid I drained out looks darker than I would have expected. Any experienced observations? Thanks in advance. P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Says 3.3ft-lbs http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/at_valve_body_removal_&_installation3.jpg I simply use a extension with a 10mm and spun it as tight as I could with the extension no wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 When you changed the trany fluid, did you do it 3 times, with drives between drains? That is what people recommend here, because a single drain only drains out about half the ATF. The other half stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out. Doing the 3 drain does a lot better job of swapping out old to new ATF. Be aware that the dip stick for the ATF measures a pint increment from low to high marks on the stick. A lot of guys make a mistake, and think it is a quart increment, and over fill. I know what you mean about the ez removal of the trany pan bolts. I simply gently snugged them up when I replaced a pan gasket. You don't want to super tighten, or the pan lip will bend to cause leaks. If there is a torque wrench spec for this, I am not aware of it. I hope somebody chimes in on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 You don't say what year or model. Perhaps it doesn't matter in this case? The FSM for a 2002 Forester says to torque the AT pan-bolts to 3.6 ft-Lbs (similar to the figure given by #2 above). The key thing to remember, is that this isn't much torque. It would be very easy to accidently shear off those pan-bolts. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAJ Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thanks for the replies all! I'm off to do battle with my Ultra Gray. BTW it's a 98 OBW. I swapped the engine AND the tranny this winter in the great frozen outdoors. This should be an ez hour or so, then I'm off to make a brake line for my 86' slant 6 Dodge D100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAJ Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 So I followed the directions on the sealant tube. Of course I put too much on and a really nice fat bead came out the edge. It had me let it sit for an hour and then instructed me to tighten the bolts 1/4 - 1/2 turns. Now that ot's all set up should I torque them to ~ 3 lbs or just let it sit since the gasket is all formed? thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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