Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

timing and belt

Featured Replies

Hopefully you get it figured out. These kinds of problems bug the hell out of me.

I'm still stuck on trying to figure out why you have 0.8v on some of the fuses.

  • Replies 110
  • Views 15.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think with a reading that low like less then 1 V you can treat it as being 0V

 

that stuff used to bother me all the time working on electrical projects until a friend schooled me on it..

 

way more likey to bug you on a digital meter then say an analog one.

  • Author

the .8 volts has to be some sort of a feedback i think. thats all i could figure out. since i had been testing the wrong side.

0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0.

0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0.

 

 

yep

When I'm dealing with computer systems sometimes I'll have a very slight voltage where there shouldn't be any. Or where there should be a much higher voltage. I just put a small resistor across the load. If it falls to zero then I know it's just stray. Which, I then try to track down. If putting load doesn't drop the voltage something else is the matter. Your car is basically a computer system, and should be treated as such.

 

With this type of stuff high sensitivity DMMs can be more of a curse than help for anything... Breaking out the good old analogue sometimes is the best tool.

I agree with you on the meters most of the stuff I work on is not going to get killed easy by stray voltage but it's better to be safe then sorry.

0.8v is probably just stray current. If you put any load on it, it would probably fall right to 0.

 

That's a good point. I've picked up small mounts of voltage in some circuits I've tested, but it's always way smaller. Usually less than 0.1v.

  • Author

it looks like this is going to be a on going problem.

 

i havent touched the car since i posted last about the alternator. so today stuck at home i decide to do some testing. anyway that was a waste of time and i knew it. so i reach up under the fender to grab the wirign loom just before it enters the body. i move it back and forth several times. i then did it again. the rubber boot pops out of the body. great now i have to put the boot back in.

 

so i put the new fuel pump connector wire back on the fuel sender and put the pump in the tank after testing to make sure the connector was working.

 

so anyway back to making sure what had power and what didnt. same old thing except i put the old 15 amp fuse back in slot 16. and then i got power back to everything. the car started right up without an alternator even on the car.

 

i do not know for sure what the problem was because i had unplugged some wires from the fuse box and plugged them back in too. because i had thoughts that maybe the fuse box connectors were bad. although i couldnt see anything.

 

so that is where i am at. in need of fixing the alternator getting it to run smoothly. maybe time for a tune up. however next week it will probably break down again.

Well at least it's fixed... :lol: for a little while.

 

Poor connections are fairly common. Sometimes wires and harnesses just need to be unplugged and screwed around with.

 

Had a strange wire problem come into the shop earlier this week. Car had a code for a pedal sensor, wiring checked out, tech replaced the sensor, then the control unit and the code kept coming back.

He finally did a visual check of the wiring and found a section that looked like it had been heated up by an external source. No bare wire showing, but when the wires for the sensor were isolated away from the others in the harness the code went away and stayed gone. Tech checked sensor readings on the scanner and found they were erratic when the wires were grouped together with the others in the harness. Wrapped the wires in insulating tape and the erratic signal went away.

  • Author

after bolting the fuse box back in. i am wondering if i may have rebumped something and it might not start again. i am almost sure it had to do with the wirign up under the dash or putting the fuse back in. i have seen spade connectors that get loose. and i have had to mash them back tight. i just hope this fixes it. now i fi could get the alt fixed i could drive the car. and no more sitting at home all day bored to death. i have work to do elsewhere.

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.